Dash electronics

[603hellmutt]

I seem to be having an issue where nothing on my dash that is electrical works. Being more specific my voltage gauge doesn't work, my fuel gauge doesn't work my heater switch does nothing. Im going to pull it apart this weekend and dig into it and throw a meter on it along with installing a kascar grounding kit, im figuring they share a ground? If they share a ground behind the panel where would it be? Any other ideas? I tested the gauges on another truck and they work fine.

 

[erasedhammer]

I seem to be having an issue where nothing on my dash that is electrical works. Being more specific my voltage gauge doesn't work, my fuel gauge doesn't work my heater switch does nothing. Im going to pull it apart this weekend and dig into it and throw a meter on it along with installing a kascar grounding kit, im figuring they share a ground? If they share a ground behind the panel where would it be? Any other ideas? I tested the gauges on another truck and they work fine.

There's a panel ground wire, then there's the body ground wire.
Body ground stud is behind the dash tucked to the upper right behind the heater control.
Should be two ground wires on that stud.
That body stud comes loose all the time and causes problems often.

 

[603hellmutt]

Great, atleast i have a place to start looking is it somewhat accessible behind the heater controls or will the cluster need to be removed?

 

[erasedhammer]

Great, atleast i have a place to start looking is it somewhat accessible behind the heater controls or will the cluster need to be removed?

Yeah pull the cluster and it should be easy to get at the stud.
Pull the doghouse as well to access the back of the stud to tighten it if it's loose.

 

[DainGerous]

Blown circuit breaker. If it blew, you need to trace back why it shorted. Grounds, etc. Found my windshield wiper motor was not grounded.. zap.5925014302318
AA55571/01-001
CIRCUIT BREAKER..................... 2

 

[NormB]

While you're at it, DEOXIT.

There are other compounds, but many of the contacts, especially blade/stud types connecting to the instrument cluster corrode over time. Dissimilar metals (zinc plated copper connectors on steel nuts/studs).

A small tube is just a few bucks and it goes a long way. I've found this to be invaluable in maintaining good electrical conductivity.

If it's electric, clean it.

If it's rubber, replace it.

Enjoy.

 

[papakb]

When I repaired the body ground stud behind the heater controls I opted to use a 1.5" threaded rod rather than a bolt and then put start washers and nuts on both sides rather than just on one side. This means you don't have to take everything apart if your working from either side of the firewall. It also means that the stud isn't moving around whenever you work on it. Make sure everything is clean and tight and the DEOXIT is a must. The grounding kit is pretty simple to make up if you don't want to buy one ready build and is absolutely necessary on the HMMWV because of the way the body is put together. It's a major failure on AM Generals point as so many of us have documented.

A popped breaker would explain why the fuel gauge wouldn't work but the voltmeter comes directly from the alternator