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DogHead Relay Mod Backfire?

usmcpatriot

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Bumpass, VA
This question is for anyone who has done the mod....
I had done the mod today no problem piece of cake...started engine...no problem...went to Loews.... 5 miles away....went home another 5 miles...shut engine off...restarted engine....5 minutes later started engine no problem...left off for an hour had a beer some bar-b-q....no problem...go to start truck needing beer...BAD TIME MAN! Problem no start...hear st 85 clicking, hear nothing from the new relay DH mod...plenty of juice..turn key seatbelt buzzer buzzing away...light on dash good...but no start before I start any thing...any takers on the problem might be?:cry:
 

doghead

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Use a volt meter and see if you have power on the big purple wire, when you try to start.

You may have a bad relay. A few others have reported bad(new) relays.

You could have a bad connection also.


Did you disconnect your battery cables when you did the mod? Did you clean and reinstall them tightly?
 

AceHigh

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If it ran an hour before it should not even need glow. Mine did that as the IP died, had to pour water on the pump to get it to start each time it was off about an hour.
 

usmcpatriot

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Bumpass, VA
thanks Doghead for the reply and Acehigh...yes I put a mutimeter on all four with ground to the firewall ground..nothing will goto NAPA in the AM to get another relay...bad connection to what?
 

usmcpatriot

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Bumpass, VA
Yeah... Doghead going down now to try again...I did try each one....maybe I missed something...will try to mutimeter purple in the key on position..thxs
 
Napa sells the relays but oreillys has the same one in thier lawnmower section for a heck of lot cheaper i went thru acouple of bad relays but thats the price u pay for being a chinese taiwan knockoff lol so far so good i keep a few around as backups
 

ssdvc

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I did the mod and the first relay was bad out of the box. Then, after swapping in another relay (from NAPA), it still wouldn't start. Found out the reason after I checked the wires. One had partially pulled out of the connector and wasn't making contacting.

The mod works, you just have to take your time.:beer:
 

M1008driver

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Great Falls, Montana
They are all made in China by 10 year olds...!!!! It's all crap anymore!!!
We are not going to get rid of China anytime soon. I am thinking we need to keep notifying the parts suppliers and demand the quality we expect. Tell them every time we buy a bad part and make our voices be heard.

I say this because remember the crap Japan used to send to us. Now their quality is very good.

This is just my humble opinion so don't flame me. I have no love for made in China parts.
 

Matt1031

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Atl, GA
Bad crimp or fried connection? Easiest way to check wiring integrity is to use a DC inductive "amp clamp" to check amps going in/out of relay. Voltage readings can be misleading - amp readings have the advantage of testing the circuit "in action" and show the big picture. Without a good ground you can still get a normal voltage reading, whereas an amp reading will show a bad ground and/or bad connections almost immediately. To rule out a defective relay you can just use a couple of short 10 ga jumpers to (momentarily) power the coil directly off the battery and then test continuity the ol' fashioned way using your multimeter.

If you don't have a dedicated *DC* inductive amp clamp, I'd definitely suggest investing in one if you work on automotive electrical systems regularly - they save a ton of time when tracing problems. Here's the one I use:
Amazon.com: Extech DC400 400A DC Mini Clamp Meter: Home Improvement
Not too expensive at $80, it's paid for itself many times over.

Note: If you already own a decent AC/DC multimeter, I've found it's usually cheaper to buy a separate amp clamp just for DC than it is to step up to the all-in-one AC/DC clamp on meters. Most of the better AC/DC capable amp clamp style meters are $250+.
 

usmcpatriot

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Location
Bumpass, VA
I posted a reply...which I am not seeing now....but see pics in attachments new relay made in the USA...key did not start had to jump relay...engine started right up...will check the ignition switch...any help would...the Corps taught to shoot...not trouble shoot
 

doghead

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You are putting the 2 small wires on the 2 small terminals, and the 2 large wires on the 2 large terminal, correct?

The small purple(with white tracer) wire should have 12v with the key in the start position.
 
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doghead

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Did the Corps teach you to file an AAR?

We'd like to know how this ended.
 

usmcpatriot

Member
199
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18
Location
Bumpass, VA
Well thank you DH on the lesson on puncuation education...First and foremost I truly apologize if you were irked by my post heading...didnt mean any harm...You 've been immortalized by this very helpful modification, and so you should be. The mod is a great help...although I'd go with the heavier relay made in America...this being said......
I did test the purple wire with the white stripe with the key in the "on" postion and got 10.34v...at the present moment I am jumping the starter relay with a switch....I found a wire I never saw before hanging loosely....A purple wire with a white stripe and a yellow wire together...tested that wire and its 10.25v I checked the posts seems some other CUCV owner is having the same problem..."M1008driver" I'd appreciate the help Doghead...thxs...oh BTW what is a AAR? Pics attached
 

Attachments

doghead

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AAR = After Action Report

aka, summary
 
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M1008driver

New member
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Location
Great Falls, Montana
Even though sometimes he comes off strong, doghead is the best hope for help.

I wish to tread lightly here...

It looks like you have a ST553 relay (the parts stores call this a starter solenoid or relay and it is used under the hood in the CUCV for the gp relay. Also the S603 does the same thing as the ST553)

...and not the part# 7-01860-1 (SME line) solenoid used as the starter relay in the doghead mod, which is sometimes called a tractor relay.

I attached doghead's pic. The one in your pic you are holding is the right one to use if it is the right part number. Everything else is just wiring correctly and the pics show the wring.

EDIT-There is also a manual button wired in which may affect everything depending on how it was wired. I would try using the 7-01860-1 first as the manual button may not be a problem.
 

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