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Fill spout for threaded fuel cans, repairing rubber seal?

FrankenCub

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Broome Co., NY
I have a fill spout for my fuel cans that leaks. The rubber is hardened and cracked from age, but otherwise the rest of the spout is good. Have any of you guys repaired the rubber seals on those? It doesn't look like it will come off without breaking it.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
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Broome Co., NY
Waiting on my phone to send to my pc email, can't upload from my phone.




just a thought for the gasket, ive gone to my local fire dept and asked for a 2.5 in fire hose gasket. works perfect and usually they will give you one
That's not a bad idea for the can gaskets, I have 2 yet that need gaskets. One of these days I'll upload one of the cans, USAF but it has some AN fitting on the side at the bottom. Some after thought, or AF used to sample fuel? Odd.
 

big block 88

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Topeka/Kansas
Ahhh. You said threaded. Thats a donkey d1ck with expanding end. I have in the past used silicone gasket maker to build the gasket back up. It didnt last long, i have a few dozen laying around so i just tossed it in the barn and grabbed an NOS one.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
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Those are called donkey d1cks.
Ahhh. You said threaded. Thats a donkey d1ck with expanding end. I have in the past used silicone gasket maker to build the gasket back up. It didnt last long, i have a few dozen laying around so i just tossed it in the barn and grabbed an NOS one.
Yeah, that's also what I labeled the images as lol. I thought about silicone but didn't think it would hold up long. I get catalogs from Reynolds Advanced Materials, pourable casting materials and such, maybe I could make a form to pour some rubber compound around my old d1ck :shrugs::whistle:

Also thought about using rubber tape that's usually used to weatherproof electrical connections. It stretches and seals to itself, but again, how long would it hold up?
It would make using my cans much easier than a siphon hose.
 
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firefox

General
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I wonder if you could buy a small sheet of rubber of the correct thickness and type and then cut out the gasket. Maybe some one has some fancy laser cutting equipment that could cut it out.
 

FrankenCub

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Broome Co., NY
I wonder if you could buy a small sheet of rubber of the correct thickness and type and then cut out the gasket. Maybe some one has some fancy laser cutting equipment that could cut it out.
That may work if I can find some rubber that's thick enough, and I can get it over the lip at the bottom. Could probably even cut it out with a hole saw seems I don't know anyone with enough coin to own a laser cutter lol.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
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Broome Co., NY
Try McMaster Carr, but firdt research what type of rubber you need. I am thinking neoprene,
but you need to check that. Also what hardness. Maybe some of the folks on here can give some insight into this. Let us know how it works out.
Never thought about them. Looking through what they have I see Buna-N as fuel oil and hydraulic oil resistant. A 12"x12"x.75" piece is $99 :cookoo:
Neoprene 6"x6"x.75 is $34. Better, but still a lot to make a rubber seal. I may try some back yard hack.
I was looking into the hardness scale and it looks like a 70A is right around where tires are, some a 50A would probably work best. 70A may be a bit stiff for something like this seems it has to be squeezed to make a seal.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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I suspect ethanol will be your worst issue.
 

Recovry4x4

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Surplus threaded metal donkey dongs are the expandable type. The threaded ones are aftermarket and block the vent hole. New mfr replacement rubber would be nice to have. It needs to be quite soft to seal against the 2" threads in either the steel or Scepter cans.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
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mid- michigan
Evil auction site?

Oh.... do you mean......


evil


Oh, look! I said it! ..... .... .... Waiting.... Waiting.....

Nope, I'm not getting struck by lightning. Not getting banned. Not even getting an infraction!

Look, I can even link to the site! eBay!

And there's more! I can even link to an eBay seller. I can even link to an eBay store. (I have no idea who this guy is.)

I could say something like, "I have bought [item of interest] from this eBay seller several times, and he's ripped me off each time, so I wholeheartedly recommend him!"


What I cannot do is link to a specific live auction.

That's it.

You guys need to get over this silly superstition about mentioning eBay. It's been pointed out plenty of times that there is no such prohibition against mentioning eBay.

eBay.

No superstition about it they could give a rats behind about buyers , they will
protect dishonest sellers to no end as long as they are making money , then throw in them demanding using paypal
their other company , I'm not going to advertise for them by having them come up in searches on SS.

If you notice my post is within the rules of SS by only posting a copied picture and some text from the ad.

Now back to the topic of this thread , I wonder if stacking the smaller gaskets would work.
you might have to shave them down since the O.D is 2 5/16ths.

 
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FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
I certainly could have used that donkey schlong today. In the plus side I hope my moron Ford loving neighbor was paying attention. His beloved F350 won't start unless it's plugged in all night, even at 20 degrees. I should have taken a video, 3 degrees, no block heater, and my M1008 fired right up just as well as my friends new Duramax! Now the unfortunate part, ran out of fuel 4 miles from the Sunoco. Had one of my Jerry cans but only a short siphon hose.

Just realized I have some vulcanizing rubber for repairing tires. I'm going to try filing 1/4" of the old seal off and wrapping some of that rubber around the seal and take my heat gun to it. Worst that can happen is it doesn't work. Best case, it goes behind my seat for these instances.
I like this cam lock spout, not so much the thread on.
 

mike634

Member
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Sussex New Jersey
I just picked up a brand new donkey dick from e bay. It is made in Taiwan but it looks well made and works like the older GI one I have.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I just picked up a brand new donkey dick from e bay. It is made in Taiwan but it looks well made and works like the older GI one I have.
Agree. It is not rocket science. It is a metal tube that goes in a hole and fuel flows thru it. Most times I find the issue is the tube is blocked and the screen needs cleaned. Thus the fuel is back pressured and takes the least path of resistance. The small seal leaking at the connection. IMHO. Blow out the screen use clean cans and a lot of the issues will go away. I would never punch the screen out. Or slam the new plastic snouts in the M1009 tailgate. but I know I left people borrow mine and they done that. The joys of loaning things. So happy. Happy New Year. Get your gear in shape before you need it. That snout looks neglected.
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Lexington, South Carolina
I just picked up a brand new donkey dick from e bay. It is made in Taiwan but it looks well made and works like the older GI one I have.
I have found those tend to have a thinner rubber seal ring, which will not compress as well and will leak/come off easily. Just my experience.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
Agree. It is not rocket science. It is a metal tube that goes in a hole and fuel flows thru it. Most times I find the issue is the tube is blocked and the screen needs cleaned. Thus the fuel is back pressured and takes the least path of resistance. The small seal leaking at the connection. IMHO. Blow out the screen use clean cans and a lot of the issues will go away. I would never punch the screen out. Or slam the new plastic snouts in the M1009 tailgate. but I know I left people borrow mine and they done that. The joys of loaning things. So happy. Happy New Year. Get your gear in shape before you need it. That snout looks neglected.
Seems this one isn't a screw on it's more than just a small seal leaking. When the bail is flipped it no longer tightens enough to even keep it in the can under any kind of force at all. The rubber is shrunk and hardened. I mean I could just go ahead and order a new China thread on, but why if there was a way to fix my original GI snout.
It's not in as bad shape as it appears. I'm not sure if it's CARC paint that's on it or what, but there are some spots of light surface rust, which isn't a problem. It's sat on a shelf for probably 30yrs.
If I can't fix it, I'll have to break down and order one.
 
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