- 2,834
- 4,049
- 113
- Location
- Olympia/WA
So as some of you know, I had the bolt holding the brake caliper bracket back out of the differential and come into contact with the ends of the halfshaft bolts sticking through the rotor.
Since I was down there anyway, I decided to take care of the oil leak I saw on that side of the differential as well.
First thing to note, the bolts through the rotor got minor damage to the end of them, making them difficult to remove. One that I guess was just slightly longer than the others appears to have taken just a little metal out of the holes when it was removed, but not enough to cause an issue I don't think.
Going through the manual, it never said to actually disconnect and remove the brake caliper, only that it would need secured up out of the way. A little bit of iron wire held it secure enough to get the job done. Just make sure it actually IS secured, or you'll damage the brake lines.
I replaced the output seal while I was there, but just after starting to remove it I realized I didn't actually have to, the leak was coming from the nut in the center of the rotor/flange, and the seal itself wasn't leaking at all. Probably could have just put in a new star o-ring seal thingy behind the nut and a little RTV and called it good.
While I'm talking about bolts, I want to give a thanks to Inspector 1 for his thread a little while back about installing the BlueHummer locking bolt kit. (https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/half-shaft-locking-bolts.199822/)
I decided to go that route as well (now that I knew it existed) and ordered the torque adapter I needed at the same time ($20 on ebay for a snap-on version)
These bolts are just a little shorter than the bolts that were in there, and even without the locking washer they just barely come flush with the inside of the flange. Basically a perfect fit as far as I can tell.
So here is what parts I started with. I went by an incorrect parts list apparently as the two smaller bolts in front of the loctite weren't used on this job. Also didn't need the crush washer for the brakes or the slide pins on the calipers.
Here is showing the locking bolts just barely sticking through, compared to the originals below (not a good picture, but you can see the bracket bolt backing out and the damage to the halfshaft bolt)
And here is how it looks with the locking bolts installed.
Since I was down there anyway, I decided to take care of the oil leak I saw on that side of the differential as well.
First thing to note, the bolts through the rotor got minor damage to the end of them, making them difficult to remove. One that I guess was just slightly longer than the others appears to have taken just a little metal out of the holes when it was removed, but not enough to cause an issue I don't think.
Going through the manual, it never said to actually disconnect and remove the brake caliper, only that it would need secured up out of the way. A little bit of iron wire held it secure enough to get the job done. Just make sure it actually IS secured, or you'll damage the brake lines.
I replaced the output seal while I was there, but just after starting to remove it I realized I didn't actually have to, the leak was coming from the nut in the center of the rotor/flange, and the seal itself wasn't leaking at all. Probably could have just put in a new star o-ring seal thingy behind the nut and a little RTV and called it good.
While I'm talking about bolts, I want to give a thanks to Inspector 1 for his thread a little while back about installing the BlueHummer locking bolt kit. (https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/half-shaft-locking-bolts.199822/)
I decided to go that route as well (now that I knew it existed) and ordered the torque adapter I needed at the same time ($20 on ebay for a snap-on version)
These bolts are just a little shorter than the bolts that were in there, and even without the locking washer they just barely come flush with the inside of the flange. Basically a perfect fit as far as I can tell.
So here is what parts I started with. I went by an incorrect parts list apparently as the two smaller bolts in front of the loctite weren't used on this job. Also didn't need the crush washer for the brakes or the slide pins on the calipers.
Here is showing the locking bolts just barely sticking through, compared to the originals below (not a good picture, but you can see the bracket bolt backing out and the damage to the halfshaft bolt)
And here is how it looks with the locking bolts installed.