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How do yall like this gem of a repair?

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Cut a bed side out and weld a section in. I think the same guy fixed my work horse M1028. I had a brake line blow out under the mid ship area last week when I was pulling tree stumps with it. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking. DSCF7019.JPGDSCF5887.JPG
This rear bed side has aluminum siding in as filler also. I never notice it when I am loading wood and rocks in the bed. Ex Fort Indiantown Gap truck. Had a camper cap on it at one time. Lives to work now. A good truck it will never hurt and an old truck it never matters.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
9,603
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think a whole bed side is $350 new aftermarket

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
You said it all. After market. You have fun with that. The radius at the rear will not line up with the gate and the edges are like razor blades. Speaking from experience I would like to know what shipping is. That aftermarket sheet metal fits poorly and has not held up well. The import inner fender aprons are about all I am forced to use any more. And then maybe. But the cut and splice would take less time and effort then replacing the entire bed side in my opinion. I don't see the rest of the truck but that rear section I cut off for the price of a sawzall blade. Good Luck.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
9,603
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I found that the radius was not true and would not align with the gate. It required more effort than doing a splice. Also the other companies sell the same knock off parts all probably from the same dies. They just brand them different with different brand stickers. Sure you can get it to work for you unless you are doing a restoration.
 
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