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hub torque spec. M35A2

superchicken

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I am currently involved in a complete brake overhaul on my 73 M35A2. I have looked on line for TM9-2320-209-20-3-2 and haven't found this manual. The question I am asking is what is the preload torque spec for the hub bearings on the rear hubs. Would also appreciate the front torque spec on the front bearings for the hubs
 

M35A2-AZ

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The TM's are in the Technical Manuals at the top of the page. Preload, You torque the nut down to 50 ft/lb then back it off 1/4 turn.
Then set the lock tab and torque the outside nut to 175 ft/lb. If I remember right.
 

jatonka

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Hub torque specs

Check my website for all M35 manuals. Rule of thumb: Tighten inner nut until resistance is felt while turning hub, then back off 1/4 turn. set lock ring, tightn outer nut tightly, bend over one tab on lock ring to locfk outer nut. Save the rest of tabs for next time. Has worked for me on 70 deuces and 45 years of working on trucks. JT
 

rustystud

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Check my website for all M35 manuals. Rule of thumb: Tighten inner nut until resistance is felt while turning hub, then back off 1/4 turn. set lock ring, tightn outer nut tightly, bend over one tab on lock ring to locfk outer nut. Save the rest of tabs for next time. Has worked for me on 70 deuces and 45 years of working on trucks. JT
What he said ! /\ /\ . I usually tighten the inner nut to about 150 to 200 ft Ibs of torque to be sure the bearings are totally seated. That's what we do at the transit agency. Then back off until there is no pressure on the bearings, then just apply a little bit of pressure until you feel it just touch the bearings. This will give you almost zero lash. Remember "tapered" bearings should be run with zero to 0.005" clearance. They expand during operation and can cause binding (which creates heat) which will shorten their life.
 

tobyS

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What he said ! /\ /\ . I usually tighten the inner nut to about 150 to 200 ft Ibs of torque to be sure the bearings are totally seated.

Agree'd rusty, that's how I set up the bearings on my 817 transfer case, as much of a "feel" as anything. 200 foot pounds sounds rather hard crank on the bearings. Are you sure not inch pounds?
 

jbayer

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What he said ! /\ /\ . I usually tighten the inner nut to about 150 to 200 ft Ibs of torque to be sure the bearings are totally seated. That's what we do at the transit agency. Then back off until there is no pressure on the bearings, then just apply a little bit of pressure until you feel it just touch the bearings. This will give you almost zero lash. Remember "tapered" bearings should be run with zero to 0.005" clearance. They expand during operation and can cause binding (which creates heat) which will shorten their life.
Agree'd rusty, that's how I set up the bearings on my 817 transfer case, as much of a "feel" as anything. 200 foot pounds sounds rather hard crank on the bearings. Are you sure not inch pounds?
The procedure for the Carrier based A/C we build is 300 ft lbs, back off to 0 lbs, then 15 in lbs.
But that that has nothing to do with this vehicle either.
Just saying

The TM specifies 50 ft. lb. for the INNER NUT, before backing off 1/16 to 1/4 turn.
Then tighten the OUTER NUT to 100 - 200 ft lbs.
Same for both front and rear

HUBS.jpg
 
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Floridianson

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So you guys don't bend them down and up like the TM specifies? :confused:
I don't and have never seen one bent over inner nut. Not saying it would not hurt but the jam nut is very important. I only bend one tab so I can use the other unused tabs next time.
 
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rustystud

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Agree'd rusty, that's how I set up the bearings on my 817 transfer case, as much of a "feel" as anything. 200 foot pounds sounds rather hard crank on the bearings. Are you sure not inch pounds?
No, not inch pounds. On these larger bearings you want to get them seated. On "MAN" busses we have to torque them to 300 ft Ibs. to properly seat the bearings. Now I never actually use a torque wrench (except on the MAN buses) just a large breaker bar to seat the bearings. Then back off until there is no pressure on the nut, then gently turn back till I'm just putting a slight pressure on the bearings. Very slight ! Then tighten the outer nut. I also only bend one tab over the outer nut. This method has worked for over 40 years on several hundred trucks and buses. Never had an over-heat or too loose bearing yet.
I forgot to mention that I'm spinning the tire the whole time I'm tightening the inner nut. Then after the final adjustment is made I spin the tire to feel how tight it is. There should be a little movement when you grab the top of the wheel and "push-pull" it. There should be from 0.001" to 0.005" movement. I prefer about 0.002" movement myself.
 
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