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Just picked up a 84 M1008

Awol

Active member
424
222
43
Location
MA
Hi guys,

I just picked up a 84 M1008. It has the 6.2, with the 24 volt system still intact. It has a 4" lift with 33's on it. It has a nasty flatbed with alot of LED lights installed. The long block has around 20k miles, and the trans has about 30k. I will upload a bunch of pics tomorrow. I have a few quick questions on the truck itself.

1. The glow plug wait light flicks on and off when the truck is cold while its running. Why is this? They are coming on, as I can see the volt gauge drop about 2volts when the light is on.

2. Is there a way to figure out where our trucks were stationed?
 

original

Member
202
1
18
Location
Pineville, West Virginia
Congratulations on your new truck. As for question 1, don't worry to much about it, unless it does it after the engine is warm. The voltage is going to drop when 8 plugs are energized. I would suggest, if anything, to replace all eight glow plugs to ensure they are all working properly. The plugs are just kicking in the help the engine stabilize. I see this a lot in a 6.5l that I have. None of my M1008's re energize the plugs after initial start up, but all have new plugs. Do some research on new glow plugs. I think the best are AC Delco 60G's. I may not remember the part number correctly, so just search the site. As for question 2, search the site for a thread about VIN numbers. I think there was a guy who had access to this information. I was lucky enough to find paperwork in the glove box for 2 out of 3. Enjoy your truck and download the TM's to learn more about the trucks.
 

ARYankee

Well-known member
1,972
25
48
Location
Benton, AR
Welcome to the site!!!

As for #1 I would agree with original's answer. I would suggest Bosch Duraterm plugs, expensive but worth it. There are several threads on glow plugs though. I know this is said and beaten to death but read through your TMs. I got bored today and did on some of mine and learned a few new things along with learning about an issue that wasn't major but I had questions about. I would also suggest looking through the CUCV forum at all the stickies, the wiki, and a few other posts as well.

Oh BTW............nopics

I just had to :)
 

Awol

Active member
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43
Location
MA
I'll grab some pics today for you all, I know I love to see pics when looking at threads!

The engine was a reman, and has around 20k on it. I dont know if at that time they changed the plugs. The truck seems to run great. It has had the pump turned up some, and the trans was all rebuilt along with the axles gone through. It needs some floor work, but its a good ol solid truck! I've had many Chevy/GMC pickups, but this is my first Military.
 

Awol

Active member
424
222
43
Location
MA
Here are a few quick pics I snapped. It wouldnt let me upload them before. She's all ready for winter!



1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg
 
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Awol

Active member
424
222
43
Location
MA
Dont mean to triple post, but here it is.

When I bought the truck the owner said that its running on 24 volts, but he replaced the original dual alternator setup with one large one. He claimed that its a 180 amp, and its enough for the truck. Has anyone done, or heard of this being done before? The truck seems to keep charge fine, with the volt gauge reading around 11-12 all the time while running.
 

kingchr

New member
19
0
1
Location
Prospect/Oregon
I would be concerned about your 12 volt accessories putting a load on your front battery with this setup. My dad used to be the fire chief in my home town. We had a couple of duces as fire trucks. They just tapped into the middle of the battery bank to get the 12v for the radios and light bar. This caused us to keep having a low condition on that one battery, and to keep having to replace them. Finally we just added battery tenders to the first battery, and plugged them in when they were not in use, seemed to help some. I would seriously consider going back to a dual alt. setup, where one will keep each battery topped off during operation.

Hope this helps,
Christopher
 

Awol

Active member
424
222
43
Location
MA
There is currently no radio or light bar on the truck yet, but I do plan on both. Right now, there seems to be no lack of power to run the lights, and they dont get dim after running for a long time. I dont really know how they had this wired, but it seem to last the previous owner for alot of year. Its been cold out, so I havent really gone over every wire.
 
Nice looking rig welcome to the site.Well before they jump in and say something.Your basically on your own with a alternator swap like that with out knowing how they did the conversion its a toss up at best remeber to read your tm's and I can tell ya the 24 volt system is the way to go its a tough sytem if you can get it ironed out.Good luck.:]
 
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Awol

Active member
424
222
43
Location
MA
There doesnt seem to be an issue with the system, its just odd is all.

I've been wrencing on it today. Theres a busted front shock, and it has devloped a hole in the driver side manifold. Have any of you guys fixed the stock manifolds, or would I just be better off replacing it? I found one local for $30, but looking at mine I dont think those bolts are gonna come out without a serious fight.

Heres two pics I got of the engine. They're with my phone, so they're not the best.

engine 1.jpg

engine 2.jpg
 
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Sasquatch

Member
104
0
16
Location
Alaska
M1008's make awesome plow trucks!!! :beer:Love mine, like your flat bed. Looks like they did a good job mounting your plow, mine lost the front bumper and the brush guard when they installed mine.

I just installed 4- 27W LED Off-Road Lights made by AGT from Amazon, I think a 2 pack was $60 but doesn't include the wiring harness, anyway they are super bright and can run off 24v so you aren't running them off just the front battery. I ran 2 front and 2 in the back both switched, I had an old back up light hooked to the reverse circuit but I left these on a separate switch so i can have floodlights if I'm behind the truck spreading salt or gravel. They may work well for your light bar. Here's a pic of regular headlights vs the LED's.
IMG_1689.jpgIMG_1690.jpg
 

Sasquatch

Member
104
0
16
Location
Alaska
I'll start a new thread for the light topic so we're not hijacking this one. I used a toggle switch rated for 10amps, separate switch for front and back, I didn't choose to use a relay because at 24v they only draw 1.8 amps per pair, so it's not a big draw like HID's or 100w off road lights. They are bright flood lights, perfect for worklights or plowing, too bright to use on-road, and probably not far reaching enough for higher speed driving.
 

Awol

Active member
424
222
43
Location
MA
Welcome from Mass.
I'm on the south shore.
Is that the truck I spotted on craigslist?
Probably, theres not to many around our way. Plus, I've never seen another one around with a flatbed like this one.
 
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