M105A2 Spring Pack

[Bownut]

Brought home my 105 yesterday and am pretty pleased with my purchase. Had been looking for a 101 but couldn't pass up the $200 price tag on this one. I'm not planning to use it to cary anywhere near it's rated capacity, only looking for a trailer for hauling wood and misc. things out to our land when we go camping. It pulled nice behind my '04 2500HD, but I'd like to put it on a diet and lower the tongue height. I've got the adjustable pintle which helps and I have already got the lunette soaking so I can flip it. I was also looking to loose the landing gear and some other things associated with the braking system. Another thing I was thinking of doing since I am not looking to load to anywhere near capacity was to loose several of the springs in the leaf pack. Any thoughts on this? I was thinking if I could gain 4" there along with the lunette flip, I'd be coming closer to level height. As long as I can break the u-bolts free without damage, I'd have some additional threads put on to accomodate the shorter pack.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Many people have made them pick-up truck friendly. Best bet is a different axle, maybe even spring under the mount. That would be the best way imho.

 

[jdgreen]

flipping it to a spring under axle vs spring over would save u about 8" or so easily and make it very pickup friendly.

 

[Bownut]

I didn't think there would be enough fender clearance with a spring over. I could see with a different axle, but not with the original tire and axle, which I am planning on keeping.

 

[Nonotagain]

I didn't think there would be enough fender clearance with a spring over. I could see with a different axle, but not with the original tire and axle, which I am planning on keeping.

I also don't think that there is enough clearance between the axle and the frame when you attempt placing the axle above the springs.

I installed a set of M796/M1061 trailer wheels on one of my M105 trailers which lowered the bed height down to 29 inches from the 37 inches that I started with.

The wheels and tires are pricey but worth the effort if you need the larger trailer. The tires are rated for 4045 lbs each so load rating isn't an issue.

 

[jimbob1111]

Hi,
I'm going to combine my M116A3 & M105A2 trailers and hope to get the best of both worlds. My M101A2 is a handy trailer except the 45" between the fenders & the low roof line , this makes putting two pallets in it a real hassle.
Here's my game plan:

Use the running gear & brakes from the M116A3 with M101A2 wheels & tires. I don't remember what the measurements were offhand but it looked like it would fit fine. I have electric brake trailer axles, but I don't want to lose the parking brakes. I priced electric trailer brake assemblies WITH PARKING BRAKES, very expensive!

Build a lengthened M101 style trailer frame with 4" C channel & tube so the 105 bed will bolt up like the M101.

All I'll need to buy is 4" rectangle tube & brake line.

My goal is to SUPERSIZE a M101 series trailer to make it more useful for my needs with stuff I have. I've been keeping my eyes open for a M105A3 at a reasonable price to put smaller wheels & tires on to make it easier for me to load & unload , but haven't had much luck.

And I got a CBC for my M105A2 already.

HMFG

 

[DUG]

Brought home my 105 yesterday and am pretty pleased with my purchase. Had been looking for a 101 but couldn't pass up the $200 price tag on this one. I'm not planning to use it to cary anywhere near it's rated capacity, only looking for a trailer for hauling wood and misc. things out to our land when we go camping. It pulled nice behind my '04 2500HD, but I'd like to put it on a diet and lower the tongue height. I've got the adjustable pintle which helps and I have already got the lunette soaking so I can flip it. I was also looking to loose the landing gear and some other things associated with the braking system. Another thing I was thinking of doing since I am not looking to load to anywhere near capacity was to loose several of the springs in the leaf pack. Any thoughts on this? I was thinking if I could gain 4" there along with the lunette flip, I'd be coming closer to level height. As long as I can break the u-bolts free without damage, I'd have some additional threads put on to accomodate the shorter pack.

I dropped my spare 105 five inches by loosing the bottom five springs. We also tossed the overloads to save weight. With the lunette flipped and the tallest drawbar I can find it sit level on my 08 2500HD.

We ripped out all the lights and brakes since everything was dry rotted. I added new wiring and civy lights pretty cheap.

I only use it for a run to the dump and other light loads a few times a year. I've never had more than 1200 lbs in it. I would like to find some 7.00 x 20s to drop it down a little more.

A different axle and springs would give you more options, but then the cost goes up to a level I found unacceptible.

To loose any springs you will need to thread the u bolts or get new ones. Luckily we had the correct die and just threaded ours.

 

[Bownut]

I dropped my spare 105 five inches by loosing the bottom five springs. We also tossed the overloads to save weight. With the lunette flipped and the tallest drawbar I can find it sit level on my 08 2500HD.

We ripped out all the lights and brakes since everything was dry rotted. I added new wiring and civy lights pretty cheap.

I only use it for a run to the dump and other light loads a few times a year. I've never had more than 1200 lbs in it. I would like to find some 7.00 x 20s to drop it down a little more.

A different axle and springs would give you more options, but then the cost goes up to a level I found unacceptible.

To loose any springs you will need to thread the u bolts or get new ones. Luckily we had the correct die and just threaded ours.

Cool! That's the exact response I was looking for. Thanks.