M818 Recovered

[omega231]

Below are some pics of my newly recovedered M818. Apparently the Air Force invested some money in this thing. There are a pair of solar panels just below the windsheild and the battery adapters are still mounted next to the batteries (some jerk cut all the wires to this system). I have the remanents of the radio system that was installed in there. Brand new LED light panel (this is the second truvk ive bought with one in it). Power stearing is a royal blessing. I got a new set of reflectors and a manual. I even got the DTID forms. But for all the good there must be some bad. The nut jobs in charge of shipping got a bit happy with the cutting torch. they messed up the upper half of my exhaust stack as well as the bolts that hold it together. They also lopped the heads off all the door pins. It is going to take awhile to fix this thing but itll be worth it.

After getting it home i attempted to jump start the truck with tandem 12v batteries attatched to an jump start adapter (I have the actual jumper cable w/ NATO adapters). This is where I encounterd a problem. Prior to attaching this cable, the truck would buzz from the lack of air pressure and attempt to turn over when I engaged the starter. Once I attached the cable however, I cant even get the blasted buzzer to work. Did I fry something or what? I can really use some help with this.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

If the slave cable wires are no longer attached to the battery wires, then it will get no power. The power to the truck and the slave cable plug wires connected at the battery terminals.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Nice score, like the extra radio bits.

Even though they got happy with the torch, nothing that can't be easily repaired.

 

[omega231]

i didnt change anything on the m818. i just adapted a shortcut plug to a set of batteries (below) and then plugged them into the side of the truck with the jumper cables.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

You said the wiring was cut, I assumed all the wiring from the batteries were cut. if the wires are still there together on the terminals, then I would check the connections, and clean them. If the slave cable recepticle is grounded to frame (some are instead of the batt) then check that too.

Got a meter with a continuity test on it? check your recepticle.

 

[omega231]

oops... when i said the cables were cut i was just talking about the solar charging system (which i plan on fixing). the truck attempted to turn over prior to my plugging the jumper cable in. now it wont do anything.

 

[swbradley1]

First thing I would do is load test each of your batteries. I know it sounds stupid but for as many years as I have in electrical experience I have had the dumbest things bite me you know where.

Then get a meter. If you can't afford a good meter a Radio Shack cheapo should work. Make sure everything is off in the truck and then hook up the battery pack. Then start tracing out the wiring and check the voltage to ground all the way. Eventually you will find the problem.

Heck Doghead even found a problem on a Jeep the other night just tracing wires using a light tracer. But he's a moderator here and that's to be expected.

sw

 

[omega231]

figured it out.

by a newbie mistake i successfully drained much of the remaining power from the truck. reversed the positive and negative on that setup i attatched to the battery pack.

that resolved, any tips for removing stuck door pins? tried the hammer already.

 

[davo727]

I thought recovered meant driving it home

 

[omega231]

thats recovery. it was home before i started taking any pics.

 

[oilcan]

I've had to pull the door hinges off of trucks to get the pins out before. For now, just try soaking with a good penetrating oil. Maybe add a little heat while trying to drive them out. Don't burn the truck down!

 

[omega231]

i think heat is a part of the reason why they are stuck. rather than go through the trouble of unbolting the mirriors, they just lopped the head of the door bolts off. They also did the same to the bolts holding up the exhaust stack. If that wasnt bad enough, they decided it was to much trouble to manualy seperate the bottom and top halves of the exhaust stack. There are four 3/8' to 1/2' wide by 6' to 8' long cuts into the top half of the exhaust stack.

im just gonna trade out hinges with another one of my trucks for now.