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Mech Fuel Pump/Sending Unit

usmcpatriot

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Bumpass, VA
84 M1008 6.2L ...Ok, here goes, attempted to prime fuel filter as per TM disconnected electrics to IP, have drain tube ready, opened air bleed vavle. cranked engine,,, no fuel coming out of drain tube, ANY Suggestions....
 

doghead

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Repeat...
 

usmcpatriot

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Bumpass, VA
ok i will try again, but i see no fuel coming from tube, last month when i tried to do the same thing fuel came out almost immediately, worst case scenario will drop tank replace sending unit clean and maybe replace tank and replace mech fuel pump ????????
 

OL AG '89

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Kingwood, Texas
repeat.... takes a while if you let the fuel "drain" all the way back to the tank.....
air doesn't pump out that fast....

If you want... AND YOUR CAREFUL....... put a little pressure on the fuel tank while doing the prime... stuff rags wrapped around air hose into opening....
maybe 5 lbs.... it will help move fuel in the right direction..... just remember A LITTLE IN THIS CASE IS BETTER THAN A LOT!!!!!
 

Oldsouthernboy

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I went to the farm feed store, bough the largest syringe for horse vet shots, The end fits snuge on the plastic hose, I pulled the plunger back, crimped the hose, removed the syringe, closed it up and withdrew a full syringe of air, remember to take of the fuel cap off to let air in the tank. and it may take a while to pull all the air out of the system, better than running down your battery with cranking. Remember to get your engine warm first, before removing the fuel filter then unplug the pink wire untill you have all the air out. Then Crank untill you have good fuel flow, pug pink wire back and start.
 

usmcpatriot

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Great guys good idea from both last replys will try this weekend again, will try to vent tank ans add pressure to 5psi and crank longer...thank you, thank you very much
 

chevkeith

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De Pere, WI
I am still having issues with air getting in the lines. The easiest way that I found to push the air out is to put an air nozzle on the breather tube coming from the tank and then have someone else crack the fitting on the top of the filter. Once the air is out and you have a steady stream of fuel you can close the fitting.

One thing I have noticed, and it may be a coincidence, but when I park the truck uphill, the truck with start and then die about 5 sec later. I suspect the fuel is running back to the tank but am not sure. Has anyone seen this?

Note: truck will start fine when I park downhill.

Any advice/help would be appreciated.
 

JAsher45

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this seems more and more of the ol fuel filter leaking air issue... i HIGHLY recomend repalcing the fuel filter with a spin on style RACOR fuler filter... it will elimate alot of these head aches. The orgianl design is crap ... just to much can and will go wrong with it.
 

chevkeith

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Did some digging and found some good information that I am going to try. Maybe it will help others dealing with the same issue.

"Kinda old....82. A lot of time on stuff.
I have worked on these for years, and have a very specific question. Is this problem only the first start of the day, and possibly worse after a weekend, or multiple days?
If so, here is your problem.
On the filter base bolted to the firewall, there is an "O"ring that is the problem. Lets air in when the engine is off, and the fuel drains back into the tank.
The engine will start on the fuel trapped in the injector pump, and then in about 6 seconds, the air will hit, and require a bunch of cranking to get that air pumped back out. Sound like the problem?

Remove the filter, and the base.
On the back side of the base, there is what looks like a large star washer, but is a retainer clip, about an inch and a quarter in diameter.
Pry that retainer out, and remove the gizmo it is holding in.
There is a skinny, probably red, "O"ring on that gizmo, and I'd bet a doughnut, that "O"ring will be all cracked.

That gizmo looks like a pressure sensor, but I have never seen one of them connected.

You can try to find a new "O"ring, and put the thing back in, but in the 6 or 7 trucks I have had in my fleet, where that wasn't even connected, I replaced the first base...kinda pricey...but since it wasn't connected,I just cleaned the opening in the base real well on the rest of them, and filled it with J.B.Weld. Never had a problem with it since.

As for a check valve...the way the block mounted transfer pump works is two check valves, and a diaphragm.
Over a period of time, the fuel will seep past those check valves.
A brand new pump might make it seem better for a while, but the "O"ring is what fixed mine."
 

BIG_RED

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If you're looking for easier starting, I'd replace the fuel filter with a spin on (mine is a stanadyne Model FM100) and replace your mechanical fuel pump with one made after 1989. GM changed the fuel pumps to eliminate vent holes that allowed the pump to drain fuel back into the tank after sitting for a while. The new style ones are bolt ins with identical fittings. Look the same except for missing 2 tiny holes. The box style fuel filter is a lost cause in my opinion.. (no offense to those who like it). I tried to fix mine 5 times before I finally scrapped it. With my FM100 filter, new mechanical fuel pump and all new fuel lines (my lines were rotted too) my truck starts instantly after sitting for 2 weeks. Electrical fuel pump is an interesting option, but I would use it "in addition" to the existing mechanical one. I prefer to keep as few things as possible dependent on electrical stuff - I've never had good luck with it. Good Luck!
 

usmcpatriot

Member
199
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Location
Bumpass, VA
Fuel Filter Fix

Thanks to all for replys, found out the problem, well probably the first of many, anyhow, found that fuel pressure switch was missing:!: Will do the qiuck fix and cover the hole in behind the fuel pressure switch with JB weld and be done with it!!!!!
 
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