Needing tires for M135?

[Brad]

I been looking for either good used, or new tires for my Son's 1952 M135. What is on it are 11.00 x 20 tires. I would probably only be able to do two at a time if even that, if I had to go new? All the used ones I have seen so far are no better than we have. We also have some on 8 bolt rims, but they are not much different.
Now I was just told that we could use 8.00 X 20 tires? If so, I would have to do all 6.
Finally, I do not want my Son messing with these split rims without some help or direction.
I would welcome any suggestions on solving these questions, where to buy, what to buy, how or who could change these?
My Father and I restored this truck with the idea of hauling veterans in parades. And after he passed we gave my Son the truck as he is an Iraq war veteran. That is all he uses it for, maybe 4 to 6 times a year. I fear I have given him a big and expensive job, for his reward?
I just need to be able to help him. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[NDT]

How bad are yours? My M135 has a Gates Rubber Co tire on it dated 1964 and it’s good as new. For the occasional parade, these ancient tires still can do the job. Not so much for carrying 5 tons and 58 mph runs.
Site sponsor Eastern Surplus has 11.00s, Feltz Tire used to have em.

 

[Brad]

Thanks for reply. They are pretty bad, cracking sidewalls from age. I remember one of them is dated 1952 and it's recapped. They all seem to be holding air. And yes we do not haul any loads and we keep the pressure as low as practicable. I think around 50#. But he drives it at around 45 MPH when going to these parade locations and I am so afraid he has a blowout and might lose control. I would love to get him better rubber on this thing?
Do you think 9.00 X 20 tires would be ok on it? Are not they just narrower?
Thanks again.

 

[Brad]

There is a tire maker not 25 miles from me that has four brand new 11.00X20 tires that I can purchase thru their local dealer. They are $610 each. Plus tubes, plus who can change them?
Thanks

 

[NDT]

I would not put 9.00-20s on a M135, wouldn’t look right, too short.
$610 is too much for a 11.00-20 NDCC, call around, a good used surplus tire should be $100.

 

[country]

located Bucks county Pa



TI-1832 | Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Radial Tire 42 Inch Diameter M35A2 M54A2 M809 M939A1 85% Tread or More
Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Radial Tire 85% Tread +
NSN #:
Price: $225.00



TI-1831 | Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Radial Tire 42 Inch Diameter 70% M35A2 M54A2 M809 M939A1
Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Tire 70%
NSN #:
Price: $165.00


TI-106 | Goodyear G177 11 x 20 Radial Tire on 10 Hole Rim 95% Tread
Goodyear G177 11 x 20 Radial Tire on 10-Hole Rim Original equipment on M939A1 Series 5-Ton Trucks Tires can be mounted on any 20" rim.
NSN #:
Price: $389.00

 

[NDT]

located Bucks county Pa



TI-1832 | Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Radial Tire 42 Inch Diameter M35A2 M54A2 M809 M939A1 85% Tread or More
Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Radial Tire 85% Tread +
NSN #:
Price: $225.00



TI-1831 | Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Radial Tire 42 Inch Diameter 70% M35A2 M54A2 M809 M939A1
Michelin XZL 11.00 x 20 Tire 70%
NSN #:
Price: $165.00


TI-106 | Goodyear G177 11 x 20 Radial Tire on 10 Hole Rim 95% Tread
Goodyear G177 11 x 20 Radial Tire on 10-Hole Rim Original equipment on M939A1 Series 5-Ton Trucks Tires can be mounted on any 20" rim.
NSN #:
Price: $389.00

Dave quote him some nice 75% 11.00-20 NDCCs you have.

 

[country]

TI-1867 | 11.00 x 20 Tire Non Directional Bias Mounted on 10 Hole Budd Wheel 75% Tread or Better
11.00 x 20 Tire Non Directional Bias Mounted on 10 Hole Budd Wheel 75% Tread or Better
NSN #:
Part #: 11.00-20, 11.00x20
Price: $395.00

 

[gringeltaube]

Price: $395.00

Each??? WOW.... how much air comes with it? Must be the (over)inflation...???

 

[country]

Each??? WOW.... how much air comes with it? Must be the (over)inflation...???

the air is free

the tire is mounted on rim

 

[ODAddict]

My local truck tire shop will change out split rims. Check around your area; you'll likely find one that can do the work.

 

[gringeltaube]

the tire is mounted on rim

Yes, and so are the (10times better, IMHO) 95% G177 radials offered in your post #6, right?

Dave quote him some nice 75% 11.00-20 NDCCs you have.

Even if those NDCCs were only $100ea and a good G177 cost 3x that much; if it wasn't just for aesthetics I would always go with a set of G177.
Much safer on-road and will outlast the others, by far!

 

[NDT]

Tires are going on a 73 year old museum piece used 4 times a year for parades. Tires should look period correct with the non directional bar grip tires in my opinion.

 

[kendelrio]

As far as the wheels go, they aren't that difficult.

Here's a post I made on FB:

All- lots of posts about our wheels.

They are not "split rims". They are "safety ring" wheels. The difference is important. Most tire shops hear "split rims" and immediately say no way.

If you can't find a tire shop to change your tires, heres what I would do:

1. Invest in 2 "duck bill" pry bars.

2. YouTube "change safety ring tire"

3. Remove the valve stem core from your tube

4. Break the bead on your old tire (front and back) with a bead breaker hammer (or buy an impact bead breaking tool, theyre all over Amazon).

5. Using one pry bar, pry DOWN on the left side of the ring at the split. You will see a small groove that the other pry bar fits in in the ring

6. Put the second pry bar, in the groove

7. Pry OUTWARD (away from the rim) and upward until the ring is above the edge of the wheel while you pry upward at the ring (flip your 1st duckbill to go under the ring on the left side of the split).

8. Using the first pry bar, get a bite under the ring and pry up until that section is above the wheel

9. Alternate Using your pry bars to remove the ring entirely.

10. Remove your flap and tube

At this point most people want to reinstall the new tube and flap etc.

I would hold off on that just yet.

If you are new to changing these out, go ahead and remove the tire and practice setting your ring back. That way you understand the physics and concept of seating the ring.

Using your first pry bar, reseat the ring in the groove of the wheel.

Use the second bar to get a bite a little further down the wheel and reseat a little more.

You will have to take small bites to get it seated properly.

Once you've removed and reseated it several times and have the process down, THEN install the tire, tube and flap and air it up.

Keep safety in mind and as stated in other posts, use chains to ensure the ring doesn't fly.

Using a locking air chuck, air up the tire slowly, allowing time for it to seat.

If you notice, I never once said "use a hammer to seat the ring". If you have the technique down, you never have to bang on your ring.

I've removed my tires and rings probably 30 times and once I got the technique down have never had a ring fly.

I know there are a million different ways to do this and I'm not saying mine is any better or worse. I'm saying this is the method that is easiest and gives the best results for me.

It sounds like a PITA, but trust me, taking the time to learn it now will save you time and sweat later in life.

Duck bill pry bars (you want them at LEAST 24" long. The longer they are, the more leverage you have) and a bead breaker hammer (Or bead breaking tool).

@Soupermike used this method the other day on his M37 and was surprised how easy it was.

 

[gringeltaube]

Tires are going on a 73 year old museum piece used 4 times a year for parades. Tires should look period correct with the non directional bar grip tires in my opinion.

Agreed. Aesthetics may be playing the bigger role, in this case...