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New Old Warn Winch 8274 Install

usmcpatriot

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Bumpass, VA
Installed an old 8K 8274 Warn winch with a total of 2 hours of service.
Installed 4 grade 8 fastners on each side of the frame, 4 external G8 bolts, For a total of 12 G8 bolts. All the welds are 6011, with overlapping 7011 welds. Put a 2 inch receiver tube welded to the rear bumper with the same welds. I figured that the bumper is reinforced to the frame, this should n't be a problem. Next I am going to get rid of the cable and replace with Amsteel 5/16 rope, when the cash improves. Let the comments begin, and would be appreciated. Thxs All.
 

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doghead

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I think your gonna get hurt.

Seriously, I wouldn't apply a load to either of those 2" receiver tubes.
 

rickf

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No way is that setup going to hold that winch. Not only do you not have the pull strength on the bumpers but you are mounted way to high and you will have rotational force twisting the whole thing down. Ideally the fairlead should be between the frame rails. If not between then right above and braced from above the fairlead back to the frame. I have the same winch although I would bet mine is older, I bought it in 1972. No matter what you do unwind that entire spool and rewind it good and tight and straight.

Rick
 

Brett09

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My brackets for the bumper, connected to the frame, were cracked almost all the way in half.... Not the outside supports. If I had done this it would have made the bumper look like a V. Be safe, I'd hate to see anyone get hurt.
 

wayne pick

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Your winch is stronger than the mount it's on. If you dead man your truck to something like a tree to pull out another truck or whatever you will rip this setup right off the truck. If you still have your shacle mounts, weld axtentions on them of the same dementions so you can weld a flat plate of at least 1/4 to 5/16x8in across the front of your bumper. This will tie in your winch mount directly to the frame, not the bumper. Allways gusset/triangulate 90deg angles. You can keep the grill guard by making a 90deg cut just above the bumper mounting tabs and weld it to the winch plate. Use 7018 rod, we weld excavator buckets back togeather with it, the steel will fail before the weld does. 6011 is ok for light duty stuff, not this aplication. If you do it this way, the winch mount can be removed by simply un bolting the shacle mounts from the frame. For the rear, i'd use a strong trailer hitch and reinforce it with gussets. Search winches or winch mounts, there are plenty of winch mounting threads here, check them out for more ideas.
 

usmcpatriot

Member
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Location
Bumpass, VA
Hey all, tested the setup on a 35 degree incline, using a rolling load. Nothing broke, not even a creak. Added two shackles for a snatch block. As per my welder/buddy, I must state that he used a 6011 rolling pass and 7018 filler for all the welds. Also include is a pic for the bolts installed on the frame itself. And if I may add my first Youtube video of the test. The link to the test is [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYIqPe_4PYU[/media] :doghead:
Thanks for the ideas and comments...
 
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rickf

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Lock the brakes and let the truck dig in till the winch just about stalls. That will simulate being stuck or being tied off and pulling someone else out. If it does not bend then you may be alright but keep in mind that very seldom do you get a straight pull. Rolling 6011 with a 7018 filler is fancy talk but do you know what it is? Is your winch mount a pipeline? If everything was prepared correctly a single pass of 6011 would be the proper way to do it. 1/8" 6013 at 115 amp 21-23 volt AC would give a cleaner looking weld and still have plenty of penetration. Not trying to put you or your buddy down but when you talk technical welding talk to a welder you might get some feedback.:mrgreen: Regardless, the mount is built and you are going to use it, just be careful and do frequent inspections after hard pulls.

Rick
 

usmcpatriot

Member
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Location
Bumpass, VA
Well my buddy wanted me to explain the welds properly. Do I know what they are, not really. We did lock the brakes. The winch will not do a static load pull. I guess that is where the snatch block comes in. Just for sheets and giggles, I'm not sensitive, but welcome all comments. Thats how I learn. Rather have a winch/and a gun and not need it, that need and not have it. And thanks will definitely inspect after each use thxs man.
 

rickf

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That winch should very easily drag that truck with all four wheels locked and dug in. If it can't then something is wrong. I woould guess the cables going to it are too small, too long, or bad connections. Like I said before, I have the very same winch and have pulled with it for 40 years until recently when the motor finally died. I would hook a stuck vehicle, reverse and dig myself in and then winch them out. Sometimes if they were stuck bad enough I would drag my F250 on 44 inch tires while dug in. You have some issues to work out there. That is why I say be carefull with that mount.

Rick
 

usmcpatriot

Member
199
14
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Location
Bumpass, VA
Thanks again rickf, I think I need to first get the winch opened and inspect the guts, verify the serial numbers to check specs for upgrade and service. Maybe the 8274 has the weaker motor or whatever. Appreciate the help rickf. What do you think?
 

rickf

Well-known member
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Location
Pemberton, N.J.
I have the older 8274 with the original motor, not the newer 3.X hp motor. It would do all of the above mentioned things. Was your winch new or used? Check all of the wire connections on the contacts in the control box. There are four solenoids in there, make sure all are clean and tight. This thing will draw 450 plus amps at full load so the wiring, batteries and connections need to be sized appropriately. As much as I love these old winches the newer planetary winches are much more efficient and draw a LOT less power for the same amount of work. But this winch is FAST! Do NOT, I repeat, NOT hold the cable anywhere near the fairlead while spooling in the unloaded cable. I have seen one mangled hand and one guy who lost two fingers on 8274's because they are so fast pulling in the cable. Get a snag in the cable and your hand is in the fairlead before you can stop it.

Rick
 

Skinny

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Doesn't matter how strong your welds are, you are putting all pulling forces through a 2" receiver hitch. Not to mention it sticks out very far adding a lot of leverage for side pulls. Not a good design, should just do a permanent mount.

If you look at good winch mounts, it keeps the winch tucked in and low to the frame rails to minimize stress. Big bonus if the mounts are feet forward like the winch you have utilizes.

Redesign the winch mount, keep the winch...they rock!
 
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