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Odd way to start a CUCV

Stagg

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Location
Kansas City, KS
Ah, CUCVs and electricity the two should never have been mixed.

Anyway yesterday I went down to look over my 'new' M1009 down in Lebanon MO. The site employees were fantastic, and offered their 1008 for a jump but also offered to help get the old girl running! If you ever have a choice these guys are great.

But we found an odd quirk, in my M1009.
We had their CUCV hooked to mine via slave cable. My truck turned over so then we quit and added fluids while the engine was cool.
Then we added two rebuilt and recharged 6-TN batteries. Hooked them up... and nothing!
Which seemed odd since everything worked before. So we unhooked the batteries and re-attached the slave cable, and got the truck to turn over. It almost started.

After that we reattached the batteries, and I haven't gotten anything out of the old girl since. Everything quit. There are no dash lights or indicators (they worked before) and no clicking or humming sounds. Turning the key gets no response, like the batteries are dead or missing.

I'm hoping that something vibrated loose, But I was going to hedge my bets and also get new a starter relay and glowplug relay, just for the heck of it (both are old).

Any other thoughts? I'm still new enough to the maintenance manuals to get lost easily :p
 

Stagg

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Location
Kansas City, KS
I took a surefire light under the dash to look the first time, but didn't pull any out.
So I'll double check, but other than dirt they all seemed fine.
 

m4A1

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when you hooked up your batts did you check where your 12v lead was hooked to? Needs to be pos+ 1st or neg- sec. batt, NOT POS+ 2nd.
 
190
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Location
Albuquerque NM
Nothing electrical should ever be an AutoZone thing :twisted:

It's easy enough to whip up a replacement fusible link from auto store parts though - I took my fried one into the local NAPA and they made one up for me.

If you want the OE part, watch eBay. I wouldn't trust a takeout, but I see NOS ones from time to time.
 

msoumas

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I had one fusible link burn out last month and just wired up an automotive fuse in its place. Its been fine since, but now if it goes out I can see it and replace it on the spot.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Re: RE: Odd way to start a CUCV

msoumas said:
I had one fusible link burn out last month and just wired up an automotive fuse in its place. Its been fine since, but now if it goes out I can see it and replace it on the spot.
That's a good way to do it if you can find a big enough fuse to handle the current requirements of the vehicle.

The only place the two systems should meet is the starter relay under the dash, the rest of the time, it should be isolated.

The 12V feed has to come from the dogbone connecting the two batteries together. If it is connected to the + on the rear battery, you are feeding the system 24V and bad things will happen.

If you don't have a voltmeter, go get one from Autozone or any of the other chain stores... doesn't have to be fancy, just read DC voltage. Put your batteries in and connect the meter to the two post junction block by the master cylinder. That should read 12V, if it doesn't that's your problem. There is a fusible link in that wire and it is probably blown if you hooked it to 24V. That will take out the entire 12V system of the truck, no lights, ignition, or anything.

You can reconfigure your wiring to bypass that fusible link temporarily, but you have to be EXTREMELY careful that you are making the correct connections or you will fry the 12V side of the electrical system and that is NOT fun to replace (I am in the process of changing out the dash harness of my 1009). If you jump 12V from the positive of the front battery to the junction block on the firewall, everything should come back on just fine.

If you have 12V at the block by the master cylinder, check that you have 24V at the big blocks on the firewall... the top block is positive and the bottom block is negative. Put one probe to each and you should have 24V. If you don't there is a problem between the block and the batteries. If you have 12V at the block by the booster, and 24V at the big blocks, the problem is elsewhere.

I'm willing to bet that the fusible link is blown though, and because it was out of military service, the dogbone was replaced with a non-standard one and the lead was cut off of the original and a ring terminal added. Since it was a red lead, it was hooked to the positive instead of the negative on the rear battery, feeding the system 24V (I've seen that a couple of times before...)

Good luck with it.

Later,
Joe
 

gunner01

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Location
Orem, Utah
RE: Re: RE: Odd way to start a CUCV

well look at the bright side...you didnt have to wrap your lips around the exhaust pipe and suck start it.....welcome to the wonderful world of MV ....LOL
 

Stagg

Member
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16
Location
Kansas City, KS
RE: Re: RE: Odd way to start a CUCV

Well I'm out of the frying pan and into the fire!

Figured out most of the electrical system (turns out it was loose terminals and fuses causing the problem) although I still have to fix the Gen1 light bulb, and reconnect the brake lights which were cut. That is all simple stuff though...

Now I have to figure out and fix the fuel system. And unfortunately it looks like I'm having injector pump problems.
All the linkages are fine, but when I depress the gas peddle to the floor I can only just keep the motor at idle... More to come as I figure it out (guess I'll start a new thread too)
 

Aswayze

Member
250
6
18
Location
Martinsburg Wv
RE: Re: RE: Odd way to start a CUCV

I’ll toss in my two bits here since I was there (and it is currently parked at my house)

Electrical issue was just a loose terminal. That was nothing to fix.

Engine did not start of it’s own accord till we gave it a shot of ether. From there it ran, roughly and was making an unusually large amount of IP noise in my opinion. (keep in mind I am more used to German diesels so all American IPs are noisy to me) This one seemed unusually noisy at any rate. Quite a bit of smoke too. Anyhow, it ran rough and did initially rev up with the pedal but did not have enough power to make it convincingly mobile. I decided to change the fuel filter since that is fairly easy then bleed the system. I filled the new filter up with ATF (not as stinky as Diesel and cleans injectors on the way through) and stuck it on. I bled the air from the filter and started it up again. This time it seemed to run a little better and even idled on it’s own. I drove it up and down the street and it had enough power to get around but was no hot rod. The IP seemed to quiet down a bit but it rapidly deteriorated again and soon was to the point where it would not even rev up regardless of the pedal.

Air filter is not clogged.

Fuel filter is new

Two vacuum lines headed back from the IP are all rotted away (not sure if this makes a difference to the IP or not)

I cracked a few injector lines loose and no air seemed to come out.

Fuel we drained out of the old filter looked ok, not great but not full of water or anything.

Entire truck looks like it was owned by a large extended family of chipmunks. There are chewed up acorn hulls all over this thing so I am a tad suspicious that other things have probably gotten chewed on as well.

Anything we should look at before just assuming it is the injector pump and burning giant holes in Staggs bank account?
 

CCATLETT1984

New member
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Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
RE: Re: RE: Odd way to start a CUCV

ok, that could simply be a glow plug issue. please disconnect the glow plug power wire on the relay under the hood, when using ether. or you could blow a head off the engine.

the rubber lines are for the transmission to tell the shift points. without them hooked up it should rev WAY up before shifting and shift HARD. you very well may have a fuel restriction in a line or in the pick-up inside the tank.
 
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