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Paint and body work

Hottrodd789

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Any one know the best way to reduce gillispie paint? I am looking to put a flat clear on top i have read some put xylene only. Some use a hardener. Just dont want the paint to wrinkle up when the flat clear is applied on top. And how long was flash time till u can put clear on? Any info would be great full i have found no good write ups on this topic emphasizing on ratios and times!
 

Hottrodd789

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I did a test using 4 to 1 xylene Stayed tacky for a long time! Ive spent my past two weeks sanding blocking and wet sanding. I wana make sure i get the paint right before it hits the tuck!
 

zout

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Hottrodd - it is looking very nice.
I have shot the Urethane Flat Clear over several paint jobs. One of the above mentioned brands I eventually wound up removing all the paint.
You really need a chemical compatable clear of whatever brand is underneath as your topcoat. It would be like mixing Oreo cookie mix and mix it with Mrs Fields cookie mix and try to get the same product - it doesn't work.

The TM Ordanance paint did take the flat clear very nicely and hardened up like a rock. After the top coat was painted within 24 hrs I sprayed the flat clear. The topcoat was hardened within spec's of the mfg and it was wet sanded with 3000 before spraying the flat clear. I did two coats.
The M43B1 Ambulance was done the same way using SW urethane paint - the roof never did hold the flat clear as it was tooooo dang hot and I knew it - but I wanted the protection anyhow.
 

zout

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Nope - not saying that at all. I believe your going to get extra UV protection with it on - especially down in FL. Sounds like you already know what your doing to prep the surface for the clear
and personally I would do it (have done it before on 3 vehicles)

You know what one of the products they use to make a paint FLAT - talcum powder - more talc - flatter it gets.

Just put it on with good wet thin coats till your happy with it. Let it flash off and as long as you spray each within 24 hrs you should be good. Be sure to post pics please.
 

Hottrodd789

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No im at the stage of figuring on what i have to so to prep ot any tips much appreciated i plan to do a test panel today i worked about how its how it will lay out. Getting into all the nooks and crannies
 

zout

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If your paint is dry (looks like you have the vehicle inside).
I use the 3m trilock sanding system on my DA orbital sander - wet - you can dunk your da right into a bucket of water and keep the surface really wet. I would not sand any lower than 3000 grit. That is if your paint has sat for any length of time and has dirt in it. You need to prep the surface so the clear bites into it. 3000 is not much and will take out small imperfections along with not leaving any sand marks.

OR - if the paint is dry - use a car wash soap only and give it a good bath and drying - then use a surface cleaner (I use NAPA brand) that will also remove any finger prints or wax - use wet - go right over it and wipe it off while wet. It will bring anything to the surface and that is what you'll be wiping off. Then shoot your flat clear.
 

zout

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Just for what its worth.
If you have no paint on it now and you have some bare metal - I would 2K epoxy primer (that is made for first surface bare metal) it.

No fooling - I use Behr paint now after these folks on here made me want to try it and I have not been disappointed what so ever. Once its dried it is awesome. Spray this on top of the 2k.
I even used Acid Brite to wash my exhaust system in fall and figured it would eat the crap out of the Behr paint - it never stained it - it never made it change color - it did not effect it at all - now that was impressive and its
only like $38 a gallon.

 

Hottrodd789

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On this build i removed all of the original paint to bare metal and filled in a flaws with 2k primer and weeks later popped out a flaw less primer base to paint on thats y i will take amy tips my rapco paint after some fine tuning laid out flawlessly and i was going for flat clear today but with this florida winter/Summer rain to day there was to much humidity to spary !
 

zout

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Looks like you know what to do. Only my .02 cents worth but when you open that can of stuff you have and get it really stirried up without any reducing you might want to consider not reducing it any more - I have seen some really "thin" product and it did not feel right !!! Thinning it any more also increases your chances of when you spray it and happen to get it a little thick in lets say a cross member corner (area's like that) and it dries it increased the chances of it cracking when it dries.

Good filter on your air system - keep it clean and keep the pressure a tad higher than recommended - get a good spray but not to the wet side.
I'm sure they way you sound you know how to properly adjust the HVLP gun. When you get your pattern - stay light off wet side. Its flat paint anyhow and all your looking for is an even consistant surface when sprayed.

As for the clear - I would wait 24 hrs and let your paint flash really good - then go no more than two very light coats of flat clear (no reducers as well for the same reason) keep metal surface up to temp during the whole time of drying.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Nope - not saying that at all. I believe your going to get extra UV protection with it on - especially down in FL. Sounds like you already know what your doing to prep the surface for the clear
and personally I would do it (have done it before on 3 vehicles)

You know what one of the products they use to make a paint FLAT - talcum powder - more talc - flatter it gets.
Just put it on with good wet thin coats till your happy with it. Let it flash off and as long as you spray each within 24 hrs you should be good. Be sure to post pics please.
This a OLD (like me) model railroading TRICK
 
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