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Removing rear shims to get the tires to ride vertical? Good idea?

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
I'm thinking on removing my rear shims as i was told this is a good tip to bring the tires back to true or vertical. My tires sit like this now... \-/ and i want then to sit like this... |-|

Any fact to this tip? just want to know if it will screw with a lot of stuff?
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Houston Texas
You can take a framing square against the hub and a flat surface (concrete) to get it square to the ground. This will take the guess work out. Don't forget to check the "toe-in" when you are done. When you move the top a-arms in the tires will point out a little. Resulting in increased rear tire wear and even worse fuel mileage. The procedure is in the TM's to correct toe-in, or toe-out. Witch ever you have.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
You can take a framing square against the hub and a flat surface (concrete) to get it square to the ground. This will take the guess work out. Don't forget to check the "toe-in" when you are done. When you move the top a-arms in the tires will point out a little. Resulting in increased rear tire wear and even worse fuel mileage. The procedure is in the TM's to correct toe-in, or toe-out. Witch ever you have.
Got it!
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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5,703
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
I did this on mine, the trick is to take the same thickness out of both sides of the control arm. Helped some, I have the heavy gvw springs.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Thanks for the tip.

Was wondering about this, then figured when I put on an airlift bumper, rhino spare carrier and spare tire this might squish the rear and down a bit. I can always add some bags of sand or water jugs, too.''

Post pictures and tell us what you've done.
 

Action

Well-known member
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Location
East Tennessee
Removing and adding shim is called an alignment. The tire shop did mine on the rear as if it were at GVWR, so I will have to remove some shims. There is a chart in one of the TMs that tells how many degrees it will change for a certain thickness of shim.
 

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
Thanks for the tip.

Was wondering about this, then figured when I put on an airlift bumper, rhino spare carrier and spare tire this might squish the rear and down a bit. I can always add some bags of sand or water jugs, too.''

Post pictures and tell us what you've done.
My 2 man had the tires slanted out as well. With a load of 4 tires with rims they were pretty much straight up and down again again. Maybe that'll give you an idea of how much weight you need. That was with no airlift bumper or rhino carrier.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,582
1,550
113
Location
East Tennessee
Make sure you guys torque the control arm mounting bolts properly.
Also, does antisieze or any other coating affect the proper torquing of bolts/nuts?
 

teteacher101

Member
127
4
18
Location
WI
I took all of the shims out in the back on mine. For me the likelihood of hauling something heavy enough and frequent enough to worry about it affecting camber is slim to none. I used lock nuts where I could an locktite on everything else, then painted over everything. I had a 4 wheel alignment done and they ended up taking out a shim on the front right as well. Drives nice and straight an handles good.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
Removed all the shims and it looks 100% better and rides pretty good. Cleaned and lube all the bolts and painted over everything.
Here's how its looks now...
IMG_3318.jpgIMG_3319.jpgIMG_3320.jpgIMG_3297.jpgIMG_3304.jpgIMG_3305.jpgIMG_3307.jpgIMG_3309.jpg
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
Not sure that anti-seize is a great idea, don't those bolts require loctite?
The anti-Seize was used for more of lucubration purposes and yes for easier disassemble if need. It works better than wheel bearing grease. the Humvee did come part pretty hard (nearly 30 yeas old) the bolts were stuck and a little rusty. so i took care of that issue. Moreover, as i have read in the TM no loctite was needed (i didn't see any when i took it apart) these bolts have locknuts. I just torqued the bolts to 260 and we are good. And usually most suspension parts don't get loctite? I could be wrong on that?
 

jeffy777

Member
196
4
16
Location
VA
That does look good. To think a cheese eater got game! You deserve the next beer and brat for free! :)
 
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