Sorry, one millionth brake light question

[Deuce_of_Spades]

I have signals and marker lights, no brake lights. I think I found the brake light switch you have been referring to but since there were no pictures of it to be found (at least that look like mine), could someone tell me if I'm in the right place. If you could just help me out with what A,B, and C are then I'll know if I'm at least in the right spot? The red wires that go into the black plug do not stay in very well, is this normal? And Yes my tanks are full when I test them and I push real hard on the brake peddle, then run as fast as I can to the back and check to see if my lights come on...

no not really, I had to use a video camera to be my second set of eyes. hard to be in two places at once. Any ways any help would be great.


Matt

 

[Warthog]

Your in the right spot.

First off there should not be any red wires. Part "B" should be installed onto part "A".

And you have the old style switch. This one is hydraulic, the manuals show the new air style switch.

You can test the lights by them self. Use a jumper wire across the two leads on part "B". With the master switch and 3-lever switch on, the brake lights. should work.

To test the switch itself use a multimeter across the leads on aprt "A". Have someone push on the brake pedal. The reading should go to zero.

Also check your grounds.

Let use know the results.

Warthog

 

[emmado22]

Yes your in the right spot. A is hydraulic brake light switch, missing the rubber part. B is the wiring harness that plugs into the switch. C is the air pack that makes the brakes work.

You have a heck of a cobb job on an important part there. I just noticed you labeled the red wires as LOSE WIRES... Thats exactly what you need to do to them.. Should be fixed properly ASAP....

For now, forget about C.



Put a jumper wire from the harness and see if you get lights. Also make sure your light switch is set to the Service Brake Lights position. Also make sure your bulbs are good, and your grounds are good at the lights. Report back your findings, and we can go from there...
If I was you, once you get the lights working, get rid of that hydraulic switch, and go with the air operated one.. The hydraulic style switch leaks and will fail, and that means bad things in terms of stopping.. Or to phrase it more correctly, NOT stopping..


More info on the air style brake light switch.. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=15914&highlight=brake

 

[Deuce_of_Spades]

Emmado22..."Also make sure your light switch is set to the Service Brake Lights position."


Are you referring to this light switch? I put the top switch on "stop light" durring the day and "Serv. Drive" at night. Is this correct?

 

[emmado22]

yes, thats correct!

 

[Deuce_of_Spades]

Thanks! Im pretty Deuce Stupid. I just saw it and had to have it! Now I have a lot of learning to do. Almost think Im out of my league with this thing but I sure love it.

 

[Deuce_of_Spades]

So I should change mine for an air switch. can a layman do it? Does it come with infoulable directions??? OD iron the place to go?

 

[emmado22]

The switch changs is an easy job. Remove the old switch, put a plug in the hole, remove one of the airlines, install the T, put the switch in, reconnect the air line, and extend the 2 wires. An hours worth of work at the most with the most basic of tools....

 

[jwaller]

saturn surplus has the brake switch and low air warning kit as a package. good deal if you ask me and it's got the military MWO directions with it. those are always gomer proof.

 

[Floridianson]

Or you take the real easy way like I would do and screw in the same replacement switch and be done with it. KISS IT as in my book there is nothing wrong with that set up it's all just he said she said bull.

 

[Deuce_of_Spades]

So has anyone used the replacement switch from Napa? Part #SL134? Same thing? It's only 9 bucks verses 30 something!

 

[emmado22]

He saisd she said bull................ Yeah OK... I've seen lots of leaky switches. My truck had 2 leakers... If you think having a leaky brake system is OK, your wrong. Especially with a single circut brake system. It's your butt in the truck when you cant stop it.

 

[cranetruck]

So has anyone used the replacement switch from Napa? Part #SL134? Same thing? It's only 9 bucks verses 30 something!

The pressure rating is the clue, the deuce switch should be rated 3,000 psi plus since its operating pressure maxes out at about 2,000 psi.

 

[doghead]

Well, I called the NAPA tech line for more info. The ECH SL 134 Brake light switch is rated for 1200 psi for 5 seconds. It is NOT DOT 5 compatible. That's the facts.

Looks like Mil Spec or Air switch conversion is the only choice.

 

[Warthog]

So did you find out what the problem was? Did the lights work with using a jumper wire? Did the switch work? Inquiring minds want to know.

Trouble shot the problem before you start replacing parts.

If the switch needs to be replaced, I would go with the upgrade to air.

Warthog

 

[David_Clements_4x4]

well bringing up old thread here, I looked under my truck and my switch dosnt look like its leaking. But since it seems to be a problem i was gonna change it, i looked on satursurplus and they didnt have the switch in stock at the time i looked. Would i be able to take the stock switch and put in on the air side to get the same result, or would the air side not have enough pressure to close the circut?

 

[Jesse6325]

Going to replace my brake light switch today (I hope) I am going to run into town and see if I can get an air brake switch from one of the truck repair shops and plumb it in like in this thread. Will give part numbers if I am succesful. http://://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/74240-brake-light-switch-replacement.html?highlight=deuce+brake+light+switch

 

[phil2968]

I wish I was at home to post a pic of my solution. I attached a switch to the brake arm. When it is depressed the switch turns on the brake lights. My hydraulic switch was brand new and I still had intermittent lights. Got tired of it.