Starter Solenoid terminals loose - problem?

[DavidWymore]

The '70 has always required good hot batts to start, and I have had lots of problems with loose, dirty, or cracked connections melting and burning stuff. In contrast, my '62 has a mechanical (foot) engaged starter and nasty dirty old cables, 24v, and my '66 is 12v with same junk cables, and neither give me trouble like this '70. I don't know how much of that is normal 24v stuff (I'm really starting to not like 24v) or if maybe something is wrong with the starter and it's drawing too much juice.

How many amps should the starter draw, or how much should the voltage drop cranking?


On my last go-round with it, I noticed the main large and switched terminals are not real tight, I can move them with a little force from my hand. Not loose, but not tight. Also, I don't know if the isolator protruding from the housing is normal, i think it is a little loose as well. Probably should pull it off and see what's up, but wanted to get input from those of you more deuce experienced first.

Thanks


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[steelandcanvas]

I can't answer the questions about starter draw and voltage drop, but clean terminals and a little Loc-Tite may cure your problems. Do you have the lock washers in place?

 

[HanksDeuce]

What I've observed is a bobbed deuce takes less amps to start. Maybe it's because the electrons don't have to travel as far?

 

[DavidWymore]

The terminals are loose in the housing. I've had them twist off inside on other vehicles before, so it makes me nervous. I will have to very carefully loosen the nuts while not letting the other nuts/stud turn, and try to tighten the base nuts...but I wonder if I shouldn't pull it off and see what's inside. CUmmins 5.9 starters are known for the solenoids burning and heavier duty contacts are made for them. Many people pay $$$ for new starters when all they need is a new few dollar contact. I wonder if my deuce solenoid isn't nearing the end of it's service life and requiring more than normal power to actuate.

Can anyone comment as to the possibility or difficulty of removing the solenoid without removing the starter?

 

[steelandcanvas]

I don't think the coil in a solenoid in it's last days will draw anymore significant current, they either work, or they don't. I've never had a Deuce solenoid apart, but it may be possible to open it up and tighten the outside nut while holding the bolt from the inside. Just a thought.

 

[74M35A2]

I don't think the coil in a solenoid in it's last days will draw anymore significant current, they either work, or they don't. I've never had a Deuce solenoid apart, but it may be possible to open it up and tighten the outside nut while holding the bolt from the inside. Just a thought.

The old design starters are highly prone to heat soak low cranking speeds, just like any 70's GM product. A simple upgrade to a modern gear reduction starter fixes this easily, weighs nearly half, is 1/3 smaller, and can do away with the external solenoid if desired. I have these starters in stock for anybody interested, including a 3 year warranty, for a very reasonable price. These 24v starters draw about 1000 amps initial inrush current (less than 1/4 of a second) and about 400 amps when cranking a warm engine in warmish weather. The old starters draw about 450 amps. Voltage measured at the starter should not drop below 20V when cranking, or there is a deficiency in battery health or cable/connection system. Solenoids are typically crimped shut. Some solenoid terminals may be loose when cables are off, and firm up when the cables are tightened. This is ok by design and not a defect.