• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Stuck Winch Shear Pin and Gasket Issue

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
Yesterday while on a drive to pick up lumber, I had a coolant hose blow. Repaired it with a beer can, added water, and made it home which was 50 miles away.

I'm working on replacing all the coolant hoses now. All the hoses are loose, and I got the bolts loose on the thermostat and water manifolds. The only thing I'm worried about is the gasket on the thermostat and water manifolds. Can I reuse them or just make my own out of gasket material? If I order gaskets they won't get here before the weekend.

I also noticed when draining the coolant that the winch shear pin is broken, and the hole is off center. I used the winch in the Spring to pull and skid some small cedar stumps, and then later in the Summer to skid some lumber up a hill. I'm pretty sure the shear pin was there in the Spring, but I can't remember for sure. I think I have been using the winch with a broken pin and it works fine because it is seized. I'm figuring that must be the case because I can turn the pto shaft and winch drum with a pipe wrench and the coupler holes never line up with the shear pin. The pin looks like it broke off clear with the coupler, there is nothing sticking out.

I have spent most of today heating the coupler with a torch, hammering it, wrenching it, and spraying it with PB blaster. Not getting anywhere at all.

My next options are:
1) Continue using winch for jobs and if it slips, replace pin in field.
2) Try pulling something heavy and see if the coupler slips, after heating with torch and hammering.
3) Disconnect pto shaft from the universal, then using pry bar to push couper off winch drive shaft. I got the bolts loose. Does the pto shaft have adjustable length so I can pull it back when it is unbolted?
4) Find someone with a cutting torch to heat the coupler red hot.
5) Bring truck to a heavy equippment mechanic.
6) Drill out shear pin at a angle (might need skilled machinist/mechanic). Only half the pin is visible.

10-20-14 021.jpg
Here is where the pto shaft connects to the universal and shear pin coupler. Pin holes are offset and coupler is seized. I got the bolts loose on the universal joint to pull of the pto shaft. Turning the shaft results in turning the winch drum (when drum clutch is IN)
10-20-14 029.jpg
Here is a picture of the off center hole and pin.
10-20-14 032.jpg
Close up pic of off center hole and pin.
10-20-14 036.jpg
Pic of thermostat. Want to pull off. Can I reuse or my my own gasket?
10-20-14 038.jpg
Pic of pipe to oil cooler.
10-20-14 039.jpg
Pic of water manifolds. Can I reuse gaskets or make my own?
10-20-14 041.jpg
Much waited for beer can field repair! :grd:
 

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
The shaft from the pto to the universal, or actually remove the shaft that goes into the winch? I'm thinking maybe disassemble the universal and use a large gear puller to pull off the coupler.
 

ralph3162

New member
164
2
0
Location
Pleasanton / Texas
The shaft from the pto to the universal, or actually remove the shaft that goes into the winch? I'm thinking maybe disassemble the universal and use a large gear puller to pull off the coupler.
Remove shaft from PTO 4 bolts should be 9/16 ths and on winch hub use crows foot. You don't need to disassemble U-joint hopefully but if you do then puller should work.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Just get some sheet gasket material and make your own gaskets. Yes, all those places you asked about should get new gaskets.
 

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
Remove shaft from PTO 4 bolts should be 9/16 ths and on winch hub use crows foot. You don't need to disassemble U-joint hopefully but if you do then puller should work.
Ok so then the whole pto drive shaft would be removed. After I remove the 4 bolts on the square cover for the winch input shaft, what is inside the winch that the shaft is attached to? Does it just slip into a key/spline hole/coupler of sorts and pull right out? The yoke coupler/shear pin would still be seized to the input shaft. The pin isn't holding the yoke coupler, just rust and probably metal debris.

If I just disconnect the drive shaft from the universal, is there enough play in the shaft to pull it back to make room to pry off the rest of the universal and coupler?

Looks like my options now are:
1) Pull something heavy and see if it slips
2)Disconnect drive shaft from universal, push shaft aside, use crow bar to push universal/coupler from winch input shaft.
3)Disconnect drive shaft from universal, push shaft aside, take out 4 bolts on winch input shaft cover, remove entire universal/coupler/input shaft cover assembly. The universal can be disassembled on a bench, then use gear puller to push input shaft out of coupler.
4)Remove entire pto drive shaft, universal, and input shaft/winch cover. Disassemble on bench.

I was told by a friend who is a mechanic to not disassemble the universal while still on the truck. Said it would be too difficult. Don't know if this is true.
 
Last edited:

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
Just get some sheet gasket material and make your own gaskets. Yes, all those places you asked about should get new gaskets.
Making my own gaskets for the water manifolds. Going to just pick up a gasket for the thermostat from Autozone, since I will be driving right by there tomorrow anyways.
 

ralph3162

New member
164
2
0
Location
Pleasanton / Texas
Ok so then the whole pto drive shaft would be removed. After I remove the 4 bolts on the square cover for the winch input shaft, what is inside the winch that the shaft is attached to? Does it just slip into a key/spline hole/coupler of sorts and pull right out? The yoke coupler/shear pin would still be seized to the input shaft. The pin isn't holding the yoke coupler, just rust and probably metal debris.

If I just disconnect the drive shaft from the universal, is there enough play in the shaft to pull it back to make room to pry off the rest of the universal and coupler?

Looks like my options now are:
1) Pull something heavy and see if it slips
2)Disconnect drive shaft from universal, push shaft aside, use crow bar to push universal/coupler from winch input shaft.
3)Disconnect drive shaft from universal, push shaft aside, take out 4 bolts on winch input shaft cover, remove entire universal/coupler/input shaft cover assembly. The universal can be disassembled on a bench, then use gear puller to push input shaft out of coupler.
4)Remove entire pto drive shaft, universal, and input shaft/winch cover. Disassemble on bench.

I was told by a friend who is a mechanic to not disassemble the universal while still on the truck. Said it would be too difficult. Don't know if this is true.
Just to make sure we are on the same page I will go into better detail. I removed the 4 bolts holding the winch drive shaft to the PTO hub. Once drive shaft is free of PTO hub and hanging loose. then use crows foot pry bar or what ever to remove other end of the drive shaft from the winch shaft where the pin goes. once removed punch out the pin clean up the winch shaft where shear pin and winch drive shaft goes with emery cloth and re assemble and line up the holes and install new pin no disassembly of PTO or Winch required.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
Just to make sure we are on the same page I will go into better detail. I removed the 4 bolts holding the winch drive shaft to the PTO hub. Once drive shaft is free of PTO hub and hanging loose. then use crows foot pry bar or what ever to remove other end of the drive shaft from the winch shaft where the pin goes. once removed punch out the pin clean up the winch shaft where shear pin and winch drive shaft goes with emery cloth and re assemble and line up the holes and install new pin no disassembly of PTO or Winch required.
Thanks! I thought you meant crow foot wrench earlier :doh:

That looks like a good method. Should be able to get the truck running tomorrow, test the winch, see if it slips, and if not try what you said.
 

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
Well I picked up some coolant hose this evening.

Needed a 20 inch piece of 2" coolant hose. First place I went to had Gates green stripe for over 30$, might even been around $40.

Next store I went to had standard Gates coolant hose. Only around $15 for 20 inches.

Anyone know if Gates standard coolant hose is ok to use, or should I spend a bit more and upgrade to green stripe?
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...m/hd-coolant-hose/vulco-straight-coolant-hose
http://www.gates.com/products/autom...olant-hose/green-stripe-straight-coolant-hose
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I doubt getting the end of the PTO shaft off the winch will be as easy as you think. It took a TON of force to mine off. I had to separate the U-joint and use a BIG puller to get mine apart.

I wish you luck.
 

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
I doubt getting the end of the PTO shaft off the winch will be as easy as you think. It took a TON of force to mine off. I had to separate the U-joint and use a BIG puller to get mine apart.

I wish you luck.
When the pto shaft yoke is unbolted from the u-joint, how did you remove the journal cross bearing to make room for the puller? I was told that the u-joint journal cross would be too hard to remove while on the truck.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
It wasn't easy. I pressed out the u-joint cross and set it aside while I used the puller. I wish I had taken pics now.
 

UPFINN

Member
229
1
18
Location
Ishpeming Michigan
It wasn't easy. I pressed out the u-joint cross and set it aside while I used the puller. I wish I had taken pics now.
What type/size of puller do you recommend? Any other tools I need for this job? Can the puller fit without removing the radiator?

Right now my tools to do this job include:
Wrenches, hammer, punches, crow bar, propane torch, and pb blaster.

I have never taken apart a u-joint before, and need to get this fixed by the weekend. Should I perhaps locate a heavy equipment mechanic if it is stuck too bad?

If I can't remove the broken shear pin and I can still winch, I might just continue to use it for log skidding until the coupling breaks free. I'm on my last job of the year.
 

Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,871
493
83
Location
Gray Court SC
I would still hook the winch up and try to get it to slip by pulling.
Spray some more lube in it.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks