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Surplus tires

MaverickH1

Member
345
6
18
Location
Roanoke, VA
I think I'm wrong here... I'm still certain mine say TP50. But... 50 is the maximum allowable pressure for the radial tires.

The tables for cross country say the M998 should be 15 at the fronts and 20 at the rears at GVW.

This means I learned TWO new things today... and that means my brain is now overloaded and I have to log out. :(

;)

I'm now thinking my truck was loaded down heavily (being an M1123) and they ran high pressures for that reason.
 

Katavic918

Active member
523
54
28
Location
Maryland
Could be. You are correct about max pressure. I was just at tire rack looking at specs because I was curious about new m/t tread depth. According to them the tread depth is 19/32. My fenders say tp25 rear and tp20 front. I run them all at 25 but I am tempted to switch all to 20 for a better ride.
 

teteacher101

Member
127
4
18
Location
WI
I have been running mine at 25psi and I also removed the rear camber shims since the heaviest thing I will haul is probably a bag of groceries. So far it seems fine. My biggest gripe is the tires themselves. They are pathetic in mud, I got stuck in about 8 inches of mud an of course the old 6.2 sounds like its cranking about 10,000 rpm but the tires are turning at what appears to be 1 rpm-they just can't self clean the thick heavy clay type mud. I was pulled out with an ATV-now that's embarrassing. Driving it on snowy, slushy roads is not pleasant or impressive either.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,581
1,552
113
Location
East Tennessee
I have been running mine at 25psi and I also removed the rear camber shims since the heaviest thing I will haul is probably a bag of groceries. So far it seems fine. My biggest gripe is the tires themselves. They are pathetic in mud, I got stuck in about 8 inches of mud an of course the old 6.2 sounds like its cranking about 10,000 rpm but the tires are turning at what appears to be 1 rpm-they just can't self clean the thick heavy clay type mud. I was pulled out with an ATV-now that's embarrassing. Driving it on snowy, slushy roads is not pleasant or impressive either.
If you had one tire slip, then the power goes to that tire, the path of least resistance. You can juck up one corner in your driveway, put in D and throttle up. It won't move. Learning how to drive these properly may have helped you in the mud. research "BTM"
 

teteacher101

Member
127
4
18
Location
WI
If you had one tire slip, then the power goes to that tire, the path of least resistance. You can juck up one corner in your driveway, put in D and throttle up. It won't move. Learning how to drive these properly may have helped you in the mud. research "BTM"
I apologize for my ignorance. Please explain how I should have driven it properly. I'll explain the terrain so you can give me the correct procedure.

1. Path is about 30' wide with brush/tag alders on the left and a barb wire fence on the right-Humvee is in the center.

2. Its pastured low/swamp land so the ground is rough from holes punched in the ground from the cattle.

3. Ground is flat an comprised of thick, heavy, sticky type of clay. The type that sucks your boots off your feet when you walk through it and stays on your boots making you walk like you have a cement block on each foot.

Hope that helps explain the terrain, if you need more details let me know. Otherwise- there you are facing that obstacle for the next 50 yards or so-how do you do drive through it properly?
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,294
3,952
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Fellas, once again, the TM's are your friends. Tire pressure is based on the model of the truck, and what tires you have.
its all in the -10. The MT is rated to 50PSI, it's a load range "D" tire, I have been running 40PSI for over 20yrs in that tire, on slant backs I go 40/45, this applies to Hummer H1's as well. Yes it's s bumpier ride, but the tires wear so much better IMO. The old 20psi stencils are very well from the RT bias ply days....I would suggest 35psi at the lowest for street driving.
 

Katavic918

Active member
523
54
28
Location
Maryland
40 psi seems like a pretty solid ride. That said, maybe I will try 35 and see how it goes before I go lower. Couldn't hurt saving fuel either. I could always air down if conditions demanded it.
 

Katavic918

Active member
523
54
28
Location
Maryland
I apologize for my ignorance. Please explain how I should have driven it properly. I'll explain the terrain so you can give me the correct procedure.

1. Path is about 30' wide with brush/tag alders on the left and a barb wire fence on the right-Humvee is in the center.

2. Its pastured low/swamp land so the ground is rough from holes punched in the ground from the cattle.

3. Ground is flat an comprised of thick, heavy, sticky type of clay. The type that sucks your boots off your feet when you walk through it and stays on your boots making you walk like you have a cement block on each foot.

Hope that helps explain the terrain, if you need more details let me know. Otherwise- there you are facing that obstacle for the next 50 yards or so-how do you do drive through it properly?
He's referring to a method of utilizing the type of differential in the hmmwv. When a tire loses traction you use the brakes to stop the wheel from spinning thus sending power to the wheel with traction. Do some research on how to properly do this as damage could occur to drive components if done improperly.
 

TedG

Well-known member
1,133
38
48
Location
MI USA
What RWH said. 20 psi is only for the old bias tires. MT radials love to keep mud in them, not self cleaning.

BTW = brake throttle modulation. Simply maintain throttle/engine rpm and modulate the brake pedal to increase resistance to the slipping tire so that others will turn, thus freeing you. OR get lockers, either mechanical or electric (most are 12vdc). There is also a posi differential, but I've only seen them in 3.08. I have one in my M1152A1 and it is awesome.

Good luck!
 
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