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tuff country kit for M1009t

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
Hi everyone,
I have red a lot of in information about lift kits for my M1009 but even now ; I don't have any idea about what I have to buy...Because I want to order this in the US and bring it with me in Europ; I have to be 100 % sure about the fitting.
Tuff counrty looks for everybod a good brand, but on their website they mention that it doesn't fit for diesel trucks ...
I'm looking for 3" or 4" leafs and blocks.
ORD made me a quote for +-1100 usd with blocks 3" in the rear but are not able to tell me if the driveshaft would be replaced or not. They seems to say that the steering and brakeline have to be adapted.
For me it's very important to know what I will have to change or not, because parts are hard to find in Europe...
They also suggest Heavy duty leafs for this truck. Because the truck is more heavy, i'm ok with that.
But they seem to say that they adapt the tuff country leafs for this truck because the same leafs for K5 doens't fit natrually. Is this true ?
When I see this kits on other websites they sell a hole kit (leafs, ubolts, shocks, steering, ...) for more or less 600usd...
The only issue is that webshops don't mention the M1009 but only the K5.
Does soembody has bought this kit and installed it himself ?
Please help me, I'm getting sick of this.

Regards
Nathan
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,286
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The only issue is that webshops don't mention the M1009 but only the K5.
Nathan, you may be able to simplify things by not looking for M1009 suspension, but a K-5 with the 6.2 diesel instead.
It's fully understandable that suspension companies haven't recognized the M1009, I think. The diesel K-5 wasn't overly common, so you may want to include the 6.2 Suburban in your search, too.
If comparing stock spring rates to what the various lifts claim to have, you should be able to get a good idea of how the end result will ride.
Your trusty tape measure can help answer any questions about what angles the rear drive shaft will end up at. One way would be to support the rear of your car and let the axle droop three inches. Does the result look like the drive shaft would be fine with that as a normal ride height? Is there enough engagement left in the splines to accommodate droop from that level, or will it need to be limited?
Many thousand of Blazers have been lifted, ranging from usable to absurd amounts, so it can and has been done. For what it's worth, back when GM pickups, Blazers, and Suburbans "had" to be lifted, I had good luck with Rancho 2-1/2 inch lifts. Both with gas and diesel engines.
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
Nathan, you may be able to simplify things by not looking for M1009 suspension, but a K-5 with the 6.2 diesel instead.
It's fully understandable that suspension companies haven't recognized the M1009, I think. The diesel K-5 wasn't overly common, so you may want to include the 6.2 Suburban in your search, too.
If comparing stock spring rates to what the various lifts claim to have, you should be able to get a good idea of how the end result will ride.
Your trusty tape measure can help answer any questions about what angles the rear drive shaft will end up at. One way would be to support the rear of your car and let the axle droop three inches. Does the result look like the drive shaft would be fine with that as a normal ride height? Is there enough engagement left in the splines to accommodate droop from that level, or will it need to be limited?
Many thousand of Blazers have been lifted, ranging from usable to absurd amounts, so it can and has been done. For what it's worth, back when GM pickups, Blazers, and Suburbans "had" to be lifted, I had good luck with Rancho 2-1/2 inch lifts. Both with gas and diesel engines.


Hi,

I thank you for your answer.
Off course I have ridden a lot of information about the normal K5 but even it does'nt solve my problem.
For example on the website of tuff cournty they write that it won't fit for diesel blazers altought ord is proposing me the same kit for my m1009.

I juste need to find people who have installed lift kits thereselves on this trucks.
They will be able to telle me exactly what thet had to modifiy to make it work..

They are toussand M1009 lifted and a lot of nice people here, I keep faith :)

Thanks again
Nathan
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,286
1,212
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
For example on the website of tuff cournty they write that it won't fit for diesel blazers altought ord is proposing me the same kit for my m1009.
Nathan, I don't know why it wouldn't fit. But you won't get the same amount of lift out of it because of the increased weight. More importantly, it may not last as long if the springs aren't made of quality material.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
691
42
28
Location
Denver, CO
I didn't see you had another suspension question. Ruff country makes two styles of front springs. An ez-ride and an ez-ride HD. The HD springs have an extra leaf up front and that's what is suggested for anything but a small block. I don't think suspension connection sells the HD in a kit so you may just have to piece a kit together from them.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I run the HD springs in my M1031 and Burb too. They are a good match for the heavy diesel, ride is good for a straight axle truck, flex is great, and they are pretty affordable for an off the shelf spring. At minimum you will need the usual shocks and brake lines. You can buy the ORD braided ones or use commonly available off the shelf rubber ones from other applications. I believe I'm using 2wd GMT800 chassis lines on the Burb and the ORD braided ones on the M1031. I like the rubber because they are cheap and can be pinched when servicing brakes. Steering will need a raised arm or dropped pitman. I have a 2" dropped pitman on my M1031 and it almost is too much as my steering is slightly off center with the draglink all the way in. It steers acceptable for road and general use but isn't exactly great. The Burb has crossover and what a difference. Steering input is easier and it doesn't walk when applying brakes or hitting bumps.

10387386_365499910294029_7263902664451520055_n.jpgphoto (1).jpg

Front driveshaft will be OK but you'll have to definitely grind some of the H Yoke away to increase the operating angle. As far as the rear goes, on a short wheelbase K5 it more than likely will create a driveline vibration. Highly recommend just going with a CV rear shaft instead of doing a tcase drop. It is more money but will not create other issues like binding the front shaft or cracking the frame/crossmember from the drop spacers. Plus you are removing clearance in the center of the truck which goes against why you are lifting it to begin with.

For rear lift, blocks are really the cheapest way out. I personally would just go straight to a shackle flip. It gets the rear shaft in line for a CV rear driveshaft already by rotating the pinion angle up. It rides really nice and greatly increases flex. The stock springs if they are in half way decent shape are soft which will work great with the shackle flip.

photo.jpg

As far as where to buy, couldn't help you being oversees. I would think they could pallet everything and ship as one. You may end up being cheaper than trying to get from multiple sources. Shocks are generic, you can buy them from a local supplier. Not sure availability on GM brake lines. Try getting part numbers and see if you can get them on Amazon UK. Depends on how much time and headache you have/want.
 

jmartin1340

New member
12
0
1
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Skinny,

So you're saying that if I was to put the 4" ORD lift with the Tuff Country HD front leafs and the 52" Tuff country rear leafs I would need to make modifications to the driveline on a 1009?
 

Pierre974

New member
1
0
1
Location
France
Hello Nathus. I red on the forum that you had questions about how to lift your M1009.
I also have a '84 M1009 that i would like to lift and i don't want to purchase the wrong stuffs.
Did you succeed in finding something that fit your truck.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for reading.
Best regards.
Pierre, from France
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
691
42
28
Location
Denver, CO
I'm running tuff country HD front springs and a shackle flip in the rear with extended shackles. I had to put an add a leaf in the back due to sagging stock springs. I wouldn't hesitate to get tuff country rear springs either (skip the block).

I bought a set of extended braided brake lines front and rear and did nothing for steering for mine (only a 2" lift)
 
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