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Waterproof distributor

dodjh

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Central, MS.
My M38 A-1 has been converted to 12V w/o waterproof distributor. If I add the waterproof distributor do I have to convert it back to a 24 V system?

(I have the early model type made in Jan. '53.') If not how do I set it up?

Thanks
 

dodjh

Member
226
14
18
Location
Central, MS.
Only 24 volt coils are commonly available for the waterproof dist.
I have a '48' that has the water proof distributor and the coil in under the dash on pass. side.

Is there a 12 V coil that can be used and would it have to have a resistor built into the coil?

Thanks
 

NDT

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Post war PE 95 generators with the later Willys engines had the waterproof dist with a 12 volt coil. That coil is not commonly available and I don't remember if it has a resistor, I think not.
 

dodjh

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Location
Central, MS.
I might be able to buy NOS for one...it will be a long shot but worth checking out. The one in my '48' might be one if its any good.
 

wesk

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12 volt coils were also produced for the water proof distributor. They are very hard to find today. When leaving jeep as it is, converted to 12 volt, you have several options if you want the waterproof distributor on the engine. 1-Find a 12 volt military coil. 2-Find a PE-95 6V coil and use the standard ballast resistor with it. 3-Mount an external standard 12V coil and plumb the secondary lead to your waterproof distributor cap.

A lot of this is discussed and illustrated on my www.willysmjeeps.com web site.
 

dodjh

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Central, MS.
Someone mentioned I could get water proof distributor and spark plugs wires from some outlet that sells them for generators. Does any one know where I can find them?
 

Dodge man

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My M38 A-1 has been converted to 12V w/o waterproof distributor. If I add the waterproof distributor do I have to convert it back to a 24 V system?

(I have the early model type made in Jan. '53.') If not how do I set it up?

Thanks
If you convert back to WP distributor you will have to add at least part of the ventilation system since the WP distributor requires some air flow through it to prevent the build up of ionized air which can cause electrical arcing inside of the distributor. You really only need to connect a vacuum source to the distributor but how much of original vent system you add depends on how original you want your Jeep to be.
 
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dodjh

Member
226
14
18
Location
Central, MS.
If you convert back to WP distributor you will have to add at least part of the ventilation system since the WP distributor requires some air flow through it to prevent the build up of ionized air which can cause electrical arcing inside of the distributor. You really only need to connect a vacuum source to the distributor but how much of original vent system you add depends on how original you want your Jeep to me.

Is there a picture that shows how the original ventilation system looks? I want to put a snorkel on it also...is there picture of how it is assembled?

Thanks
 

Dodge man

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There are lots of pictures in the .MIL manual and the "Early CJ5" website has some GOOD photographs and if you need more just ask they will deliver. I got lucky with my 1953 M38A1 in that everything was still there except for the check valve on the side of the engine. Even the hose clamps are original on mine!
 

dodjh

Member
226
14
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Location
Central, MS.
There are lots of pictures in the .MIL manual and the "Early CJ5" website has some GOOD photographs and if you need more just ask they will deliver. I got lucky with my 1953 M38A1 in that everything was still there except for the check valve on the side of the engine. Even the hose clamps are original on mine!
Tell me if I am thinking straight...I've had one of my jeeps sitting in the garage and the distributor and coil have been saturated with condensation and would not start until I wiped them down, blew compressed air on them and still have to wait for them to dry before I could crank up.

I'm thinking with the WP distributor and spark plug wires I wouldn't have that happen. I would mount the coil under the dash inside the jeep.
Also would like to put a snorkel and little taller exhaust pipe on.

Thanks
 

Dodge man

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That should work but even a non WP distributor should work unless flooded with water. You might want to try sealing around all the spark plug wires and terminals with silicon grease.

The Fording system on a M38A1 is a LOT more than a snorkel and taller exhaust pipe! It vents the crankcase, the fuel tank, the transmission and transfer case, valve cover and the brake system IIRC. It supplies clean filtered air to all of those and also a partial vacuum to the to pull fresh air through several of them. The Fording system's air supply is taken off in of the air intake in front of the carburator so everything gets it's air from the snorkel and they won't flood until it does. There's a lot of plumbing involved!

Does your's still have the water proof generator and the water tight voltage regulator? You need those too if you're going to take it into deep water.
 

Dodge man

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"Also would like to put a snorkel and little taller exhaust pipe on."


FWIW I can tell you from experience with the M37 and fording that you do not want to keep the snorkel on full time. They're made to be taken off and only used when needed. I know people that try to leave the snorkle on all of the time and it really messes up the carburation. AFIK none of the manuals warn specifically about this problem but I'm sure that the MIL didn't plan on someone using them all the time. I'm not sure if the taller tail pipe has an effect or not but I would just take it off and only use it when needed.
 

dodjh

Member
226
14
18
Location
Central, MS.
That should work but even a non WP distributor should work unless flooded with water. You might want to try sealing around all the spark plug wires and terminals with silicon grease.

The Fording system on a M38A1 is a LOT more than a snorkel and taller exhaust pipe! It vents the crankcase, the fuel tank, the transmission and transfer case, valve cover and the brake system IIRC. It supplies clean filtered air to all of those and also a partial vacuum to the to pull fresh air through several of them. The Fording system's air supply is taken off in of the air intake in front of the carburator so everything gets it's air from the snorkel and they won't flood until it does. There's a lot of plumbing involved!

Does your's still have the water proof generator and the water tight voltage regulator? You need those too if you're going to take it into deep water.
The Early Cj 5 site mentioned those same items. My generator is still on but has a partial broken base. I would like to do the WP distributor, plug wires and snorkel for now and see what I gain from that
The Early CJ 5 site mentioned several ways to do what I'm trying to accomplish. I may even try some of those if I don't get the results I want.
 

dodjh

Member
226
14
18
Location
Central, MS.
The Early Cj 5 site mentioned those same items. My generator is still on but has a partial broken base. I would like to do the WP distributor, plug wires and snorkel for now and see what I gain from that
The Early CJ 5 site mentioned several ways to do what I'm trying to accomplish. I may even try some of those if I don't get the results I want.
Thank you...that is good advice. It sure easy to get carried away with an idea.
 

dodjh

Member
226
14
18
Location
Central, MS.
WP plugwires

Thank you...that is good advice. It sure easy to get carried away with an idea.


I ordered some water proof spark plug wires and the rubber cover stops about 1 1/2" from the 90 degree ends.

The braided steel is exposed from there.

Will they still be water proof? They are NOS.

Thanks
 
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