Recent content by Ray70

No worries at all, reading some of these schematics can be intimidating at the very least. I can barely scratch the surface compared to some of the electrical guys here! Good luck, hopefully you get it fixed up, if not we're all here to try to help.

Ok, in the schematic it looks like positions 6,4,8 and 2 are all jumped together. Take a multi meter and look for continuity between all the even numbered positions. With 1 jumper missing I suspect you will have 2 groups of 2 connections each and the jumper is meant to connect those 2 groups...

Look at the wiring schematic. it will show multiple jumpered connections within the switch. Check each jumpered connection and see which one you're missing.

OMG, that seems like a bad idea, being in an enclosure that small. You should see if you can modify that enclosure with fully removable or hinged sides for service access! Working on sets with the AASK is bad enough, let alone stuffed into a tiny house!

Choose based on condition, not solely on hours. You often can't trust the hour meter anyway. I personally think machines with 500-1000-1500 hours often run better than those with 2, 25, 50 hours. They have been broken in and they were used a bit as opposed to those with no hours that either sat...

If the alternator isn't working your batteries should be slowly depleting while you're running. Are you having to charge the batteries with an external charger to be able to start it after it has run a while? Rather than testing at the regulator, with the engine running, test at the Batt+ post...

Can you elaborate on the DC power conditions. Sounds like you have the set running but have no DC power at F1 or F2 but there is power at the DC circuit breaker, and the fault indicator panel isn't working? I assume you started it normally from S1 ??

Regarding the coolant recovery tank, you can look around on this site for details but the best solution is to go on Ebay and buy a coolant recovery tank for a late 80's Suzuki Samurai. It will fit right in place of the original, all you have to do is modify the hose slightly because the...

If you're in need of accessory parts for your trailered generator, send me a PM with what you are looking for. I have brand new ground rod sets, fuel hoses ( still coiled up) , pullers and drivers, ground clamps. and you wouldn't believe how many sledge hammers and rod pullers I've sent to the...

I don't think the 2x2 would suffice. Your fuel pumps and Fuel solenoid will probably draw more than that and slowly deplete the batteries, not to mention the need to recharge the batteries from the start up draw. I'm sure someone had done a load test on the DC system and can post the typical...

The shims don't adjust the amount of fuel being delivered, they adjust the pump timing. Rotating the pumps within the block adjusts the amount of fuel being supplied by altering the position of that slash cut notch in the plunger.

Also, don't rely on the accuracy of the machine's temp gage. Typically they have a 180* thermostat but the gage tends to read 20+* hotter than the machine really is.

Precisely why everyone should keep a "Spare" generator on hand! It is soooo... much easier to diagnose issues and swap parts to verify! Green Machine Fever at it's finest!

That's your problem! That is the fuse holder for the alternator, supposed to be a 30A glass tube fuse in there, your typical 1 1/4" automotive style. I bet @Light in the Dark or @kloppk have a source available for a new holder, unless you see a gray cap with 2 little metal tabs sticking out...