Recent content by Ronmar

Mine had a long spider leg or a horse hair(camel hair?) lodged in it when I got it… probably the most common issue why they won’t move fuel, but they work pretty well when they are working…

The only difference between a 12v relay and a 24v relay is the coil resistance. In their correct circuits they develop ~ the same wattage and produce ~ the same amount of heat. when you put a 24 in a 12 circuit depending on your voltage drops and the actual relay specs, it may or may not...

I seem to recall helping a guy taking a truck to AK troubleshoot. Had a couple of electrical issues, kept blowing fuses…

So do you see a volt drop in the cab during the clunk?

Correct, or those items may drop offline unexpectedly. what did the 24V do at the cab test points while you pushed the start button? the first issue I had with a LMTV was this one. Pushed the button and it went clunk, or clunk and click,click,click from the dash relays as long as the button...

The relay near the power steering is the aux start relay. This is the old school way of dealing with the flyback voltage from the start solenoid which is part of the starter where the + cable is attached. the aux relay closes a circuit and applies 24v to energize the solenoid on the starter...

Sorry, i got you confused with 2 different tests. Lets just stick with voltage tests. Test 1: 24V battery voltage at the + and - battery posts while you push start. Tests if battery can handle the load. Probably should NOT go below 10V If not OK, work on getting a battery that will not fall...

Well the trans display going dark indicates it is dropping voltage. Did you get a chance to check 24v at the cab test points while you pushed the start button. It also makes a difference where the leads are connected. IE, if you are connected to the battery clamp on the battery and not...

Yes you would connect to the large + and - leads at the solenoid and the front of the starter motor where the main ground strap is located. What general said IRT the load test. pushing the start button is a load test, just not a full capacity one, but it satisfies the basic requirement...

throw a voltmeter on the GND and 24V test points in the cab and watch it when you push the button. You can do the same thing at the starter solenoid(+) and starter motor(-) connections and observe it when you push the start button. What does the trans display do when you push the button?

If you don’t have the remote valve, I suspect that line on the wet tank output is indeed for the AOP supply. The primary and secondary/rear and front systems are separated(required by Fed motor vehicle safety standards, FMVSS). Those one way checks on their inlet are supposed to keep them that...

Cool, thats how it is supposed to be, all dryer air passing thru the wet tank. Like I said, I havn't seen an A1 plumbed incorrectly yet:) I think whoever was assembling them realized their error and just started assembling them correctly at some point, but didn’t bother announcing their error...

I would remove that female QC from the wet tank drain. They are not meant to be out in the weather and will corrode quickly. They also tend to fill up and jam with road grime. Mine gave me nothing but problems, even when I slid a rubber boot over it. i would instead put in a ball valve and a...

To put two batteries in series? See below… the other people telling you you cannot do it are wrong… This drawing applies to an A0. An A1 will have the 12 and 24v batt connections going to the manual and remote disconnect switches, then off to the connection points indicated. the main...

That would be correct…