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Because it is the same connection I would suspect an issue with that connection. I would start by replacing that piece of line and clamps.

The return circuit does get pressurized by the Cadillac valve to turn the fan off, your clamps must be able to withstand at least 100 PSI It is possible the Cadillac valve is creating too much back pressure also.

Believe me I am not trying to be harsh but we see this type of thing happen all the time to folks new to the HMMWV world, too bad you did not come here first, you spent allot of money getting to that $.50 fix. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/keyed-switch.219329/#post-2572440 Please look...

It is also possible it is the speedo itself, less likely since it got better with lubrication, I use good ol axle grease and have for 50 years

Also remember the shunt that is mounted in the battery box is in the negative lead, sometimes folks assume it is positive, it also has connections inside and outside of the battery box.

S and T at the diag port should activate the starter, if not it is the batteries, the starter or the cables. Check the voltage at T using the block as a ground for the meter while connecting to S if it stays at 24V and the starter does not activate then it is likely a starter/solenoid issue or...

Remember to disconnect the batteries any time you are doing electrical work. It is also a good idea to pull the harness from the TSU (temp sending unit) on the right side of the water cross over to disable the glow plugs while working on electrical problems until you are actually going to try...

First IMHO the supplemental grounding kit is a "patch" that does not cure bad grounds, because you must disturb some of the original grounds to install the kit some may inadvertently stumble across the real problem they are having and think the kit fixed the problem. The kit can also cause...

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You can probably get away with it, but you must think your labor has no value if you are willing to do the job twice. As stated above surface prep is key to any sealing job

Do you have an impact driver like this? This and the correct bit gives you the best chance of removing screws, that and some penetrating oil. Fortunately if they are in nutserts drilling them out and replacing them is relatively easy. Cannot speak on the actual job you are doing..

And all the R1s with 57XXXX serial numbers have a GVWR of 10K

It doesn't look like it ever had the tray mounted.

I guess to answer my own question, I did some searching on GP and the R1 trucks with 57XXXX serial numbers are all 4 speed trucks. I of course I am waiting on the EUC but will be interested to see the rest of it, I assume it will have the 12K hubs etc. It is interesting they did not give a...

That's pretty cool, I would like to find one of those, or get off my lazy butt and build one :ROFLMAO:

I have a question for those that own a M1097R1 with 4 speed and serpentine belts. What is your GVWR listed on the data plate?? I just bought a R1 that is apparently equipped like an A2 with 4 speed, serpentine belt etc. but it has a GVWR listed as 10K, I would have thought it would be 10300lb...

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The anaerobic is normally used for machined surfaces and the RTV is for pressed (tin) surfaces

Yes, I saw that, there is no reason for AMG to charge $23, but then again not every company has the ability to move stuff like Midway, there stuff gets picked packed and out the door with no human intervention, those parts would probably cost $4-5 to ship. I just keep a running cart with spares...

It's the $23 shipping that is the killer :eek: