Recent content by 87cr250r

Dang it why did you have to share that link. Now I have just purchased their instrument cluster. I was not anticipating spending that much money tonight. That was my discretionary budget 😱 My throttle cable broke some years ago before I met this forum, and not knowing a CUCV was a 1984 model...

33 inch tires fit without any modifications. The noise is the biggest issue. There is a spot around 60 where the noise drops off. This is where I spent most time cruising.

I know boat paint which is usually too thick for sheet metal applications. But, Awlgrip products are mostly rollerable without the high buildup. If you're bare metal You can use Max Cor CF as a first coat and then 1-2 coats for their 545 epoxy primer. You'll have to buy the right reducers for...

If it's inside the starter the permanent magnets in the stator will have a hold of it. You're going to need to open it. I don't know your starter specifically but the opposite drive end cover should come off without much fuss as it does on most electric motors. You may want to remove the brushes...

You need to look at the API rating on the oil. I run Chevron Delo 400 SDE in my fleet. It's an API SN. The zinc content is half of what it was when it was an SL. The newer Chevron formulations are replacing zinc with Boron and Calcium. I think you'll find the same is true for other oil blenders...

When I say clog I'm talking jets in the carburetor.

Are the pics of the old mounts with the extra weight? They seem to be handling it fine. Adding extra joints of the same compression rate puts them all at very high elongation. Maybe you should look for a stiffer material instead?

My dad gets this on his boat. He doesn't take it out very often but starts it and idles it regularly. The idle circuits stay clean and work fine but once the review to give it some gas the secondaries don't flow fuel because the jets are clogged. No smoke and no power means you've got no fuel...

It's still in production today.... The same project manager that developed the EMD engines went on to develop the 71 series Detroit Diesel. Everything they did is present in the most modern engines. Otherwise, modern oils mean fewer deposits but if you've got them it's best to keep them where...

EMD, large railroad engine with design dating back to 1938, specifically warns against flushing engines. The sludge deposits in places where it does not harm and flushing can dislodge the sludge so it can do harm.

The purpose of torquing the nut is simply to squeeze the grease out and ensure the bearing is metal to metal. Then, you back it off to the next available notch. Any amount of movement is clearance added and that is sufficient. It really doesn't matter what you torque it to. Tapered roller...

Keep in mind that "lubricity" failures are specific to certain pumps. The Bosch common rail pumps are experiencing failures while the Denso pumps are not. The problem is not the fuel, it's the pump.

High temp greases cause bearings to run hotter. It's literally in the name. Really, they have higher viscosity base oils which cause more heat.

Nothing. I have 52 engines accumulating 2500 hours a year each and we are not experiencing any failures with regards to fuel lubricity. We run R99 which is a hydrotreated vegetable oil fuel. I had low hour 2 injection pump failures under warranty on MTU 4000 engines, 2 injection pump failures on...

More grease equals more heat. Those temperatures would not cause me any concern. To alleviate yours, are the brakes running hotter on one side? Hot brakes can heat up a hub. If you do repack your bearings, polyurea greases are best. Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty is a polyurea and available at most...