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more likely 2008 is when it was rebuilt, not manufactured. Pretty much all of the rubber and wear items should be replaced during rebuild, so it's close enough
This topic comes up regularly.
This is a diesel engine, this is not a gasoline engine.
This engine likes to run hot. If you run it too cold, which is mostly below about 190 degrees, the engine will not have as complete of combustion as it should, and you will cause issues if it stays that way...
From appearances, it's specifically for the H1 so should work properly on the HMMWV. The only difference I've seen between some H1 and HMMWV wheels is some H1 wheels are hub centric, rather than lug centric, and use flange nuts rather than tapered nuts to hold it to the hub.
Have you actually tested the glow plugs yet, or are you just going to throw money at it and hope you get lucky?
Until you put a multimeter on the glow plugs and check resistance on each of them, and verified that you are getting 24V to each glow plug connection, you are potentially just...
Do a google search for H1 wheels, and there are standard rims mixed in with the 2 piece for the search results
Example
https://secoparts.net/products/hmmwv-humvee-wheel-non-ctis-16-5-one-piece-hummer-h1-6002010
All it takes is one failed glow plug to cause smoke. Several of the glow plugs are difficult to access, so not everyone bothers to replace them if the truck is still starting. I think for a while there I was starting my truck on only 2 or 3 good glow plugs in freezing conditions.
You need to check resistance on every plug, then also check to make sure every harness connector is showing 24V. It's not unknown for wires to look good on the outside but have high resistance or damage internally.
The fact that it goes away when you increase the throttle or after it warms...
You won't get smoke from fuel starvation.
Some smoke is common during heavy acceleration, but if it's excessive could be either an air intake restriction (plugged filter or maybe the mushroom cap on the intake is shoved down too far)
Check with a multimeter to make sure you are getting...
Yes, they are different part numbers
Only difference is the shift points. The turbo version has a little higher shift points, to deal with the slightly lower diff gearing and increased truck weight.
also, check out this thread...
Clutched pulley should spin freely in one direction, and solidly turn the generator shaft in the other. Basically designed to the rotor can keep spinning when the RPMs drop or stop, without putting stress on the belt.
Or it may have a pulley without a clutch, in which case it will be solid to...
Here is the manufacturer troubleshooting guide to verify the issue is the regulator so you aren't just throwing money at it
https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf
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