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I used veritread for my 1123. Price was about what it would have cost me to pick up myself so saved me the hassle. They use independent contractors and the guy that delivered mine was very professional. He called to see if I was driving it off the trailer or using a forklift so he knew where...

My 1123 came with the TDM disconnected as well. Haven't really messed with it yet but I did connect it for about two seconds with engine running and it stopped the fan. Been running with it disconnected with no problems. I don't plan of fording anytime soon and I doubt the loss of 10+/- hp is...

I kind of like that. Lawdog, if you don't mind updating us with how it works and your impression of it, I would be interested in hearing it.

Can a keyed switch be used to interrupt the 24v feed to the factory switch? That way if the factory switch happened to be toggled when it's not supposed to it wont send power to the GP and can't start the vehicle. Not exactly sure how the switch wiring is but thought it might work.

Hummer Parts Guy has them for around $62 a piece. I just put a set in, easy install and way better than the originals.

Even better, look at the Toyota behind him. Almost embarrassing the driver of the small car can't even park straight.

2005 M1123 does 60 no problem but don't have a tach (yet) so no clue the rpm. What I do know is my speedo is off close to 10 mph. I use a gps speedo.

You are correct. Darn auto spell and I didn't notice it, thanks for catching that.

I tried bending the rod and bracket and it helped some. Now the lights come on when at a stop without having to stand on the pedal but still not enough when light pressure when slowing to a stop. I will look into spacers to see if the will give me the extra travel I need. Thanks for the ideas...

So my question mainly is, how much travel should there be with the break pedal. Mine has almost no travel, breaks work very well, but I only have to push down maybe a 1/4". It's not enough travel to activate the break light switch, at least it seem. I've made all the adjustments I can to the...

There ought to be a name plate on the motor that states info like voltage and amperage. Maybe on the underside?

Ken you are correct it is TNJ Murray. Cape I do not do facebook and don't know the owner but if you google TNJ Murray you will find the website and phone number which is a Dover number.

So I just looked up the address that Ken posted. The address is legit, but the number is not. It is for a military parts place here in dover. If I'm not mistaken the owner is a member on this site.

No pictures to add but stoked to announce I got my 1123 inspected and registered yesterday! Although it seemed every person I had to deal with had no clue what to do with a MV it went relatively easy. Best 2 1/2 hrs I've ever spent at the DMV.

Thanks RWH will go this route after seeing how much of a pita it would be with the clamps

Well I got the check valves out and seems to have cured the problem as of now. None of the auto parts store here seem to have the right size hoses and clamps for the injectors so will be ordering from HPG. As a curiosity, is there any negative short/long term affects from not having the check...

Thanks will get them changed out

Friday I had my 1123 running just to warm it up and noticed a puddle under it. After finding it was diesel fuel I searched for the source and it seems it's coming from the return lines on two of the injectors on the drivers side. I've been out of town so haven't had a chance to really check...

TM-9-2320-280-10 p.1-32 has GVW of most of the variants. I'm sure one of the other TMs will have the GVW of others not listed in 280-10. Can't help on shipping weight, when they are demilled the weight wont match GVW.

A friend of mine went through this. We managed to find another data plate on the wall beside the headlight foot switch that had a date on it. His is a M1114 if that makes any difference. His SF97 was on hold and he had to submit his EUC again but GP waived the EUC fee since they didn't have...