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That's your problem! That is the fuse holder for the alternator, supposed to be a 30A glass tube fuse in there, your typical 1 1/4" automotive style. I bet @Light in the Dark or @kloppk have a source available for a new holder, unless you see a gray cap with 2 little metal tabs sticking out...

Pull the top cover and get the injector(s) out. Reattach the hard line by moving the line off to the side. You should have 4 finely atomized mists of fuel spraying radially out from the tip of each injector as you crank it over. You will probably need to bleed out any air in the lines if you...

Seeing that he mentions needing to figure out how to get the injectors out I'd say he has not tested them. I think he removed the lines and just verified fuel flow through the lines.

That's the % Power meter, his issue is with the current meter. The TM is available right here on this site, go to the top, click on TM then get to the Generator section and then find your machine.

Do you have the TM's for your machine? I may be mistaken, but I think ( like the 004-007, it may only function when paralleling 2 units together. % power works in standalone and % Current in parallel.... perhaps, but the TM will tell you for sure.

:shrugs:I went back and re read like 4 times trying to figure out if I had missed something.....

Yes, the pin in the metering pump shuts off the fuel completely when the rack rotates it fully, that is how the machine shuts down. You will need to pull the cover off to remove the injector. If you have trouble getting the injector out, the thread on the top is metric, same as some lug nuts. I...

The purpose of the test is to see if the injector is over fueling the cylinder. The metering pump does not deliver just the amount of fuel required for each power stroke. The injector opens at about 3000 PSI, sprays 1 fine mist of fuel then closes once the pressure drops below 3000 PSI. , the...

I'd be more inclined to think that cylinder has it's injector stuck open or at least leaking badly. In my experience the perfect shim thickness on the pump is not as critical as they make it seem. When in doubt, 2 black shims seems to always work without a problem. The pump could be bad, and...

The engine will run just fine, but you'll probably take an oil shower if not careful. The gears will be flinging oil all over the place.

When the dual float sensor is sensing low fuel, the machine is still allowed to start each time you cycle S1. The machine will start for a short period of time, then the low fuel indicator light on the fault panel is triggered and the machine will be shut down ( with power still on and the low...

Modifications depend on which airtex you use. The E1074 with the welded on 90* end fitting requires the supply pipe extension, which is a piece of 1/4" tube about 4" long with female JIC fittings on the ends. This is needed to convert from the Facet cube pump to the E1074. You can use steel...

Does your machine have the quad fuse mod. to the left of the regulator? If so, test the fuse. If not, install the fuse mod before going further....

If you end up fixing the old one, post up what size o-ring was required, it will help someone else one day!

All the solutions in that section look pretty funny / obvious, but the ghost takes the cake!

Careful with the $25 China pumps. I used a couple of them and none lasted very long, so keep another spare on hand at all times. the universal Airtex pumps are much more reliable and not very much more money, if you can find them in stock.

Just drop it in and go! Only thing is you have to remove the IP to swap the control unit so make sure you set the engine on the #1 compression stroke's PC mark, remove the IP with a 1/8" drill bit inserted into the side hole, then reinstall in reverse after swapping the control unit. Nothing...

GA 1085 is the external one. They don't list the internal because it's part of CU8514A You'll have to separate the 2 halves of the assy. and see what size o-ring fits in there correctly. If you have any trouble finding one locally I often use...

Hold on a second folks.... He is correct, the throttle control is considered non-serviceable but can indeed be fixed with a welder! So, the assembly ( which can still be purchased if you can find it ) CU4514A has an internal o-ring which is the one that usually leaks, because that is the one...

I'd say the best known stiction eliminator is Hot Shot's. it's a bit pricey but I know a lot of diesel guys who swear by it...