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A note on alternator ratings, they are rated via SAE J56 spec, which is 72 degree stabilized temp 6,000 alt shaft speed what it makes goes on the name plate. so in general on most diesels the alt spins 3 to1 of engine, engine idle say 700 rpm is 2100 alternator shaft speed. so a 100 amp...

https://ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II0033E_uid121020091157271.pdf N2003 Load and Battery Control Device (LBCD) see above for name and simple wiring explanation

In a dual series battery setup like most 24v systems the lower battery is the one closer to the chaisis ground and the higher is the one you pull 24v power from. so to find the lower battery look at where the ground post cables go. On one battery it will go to chassis ground, the other will go...

The reason for the imbalance is you actually need more load on the 12v side of things. the design of the dual voltage was the military wanted to use 12V items in a 24V vehicle. to do this they tapped power off the lower 12v battery, the "14V" tap on the regulator provides up to 50 amps to the...

cleaning terminal connections tends to kill the big gremlins and leave the little ones to be hunted down. the little electrical gremlins like to be the cool kids and smoke things.

For the 60 vs 200 amp, it comes down to where they make their power. the rating on all alternators (military call generators) is rated by SAE J56, which states at 6000 Alt RPM and 72 degrees F what they can make goes on the label. So in reality with most Alts on diesels running 3 to1 of engine...

Perhaps they meant that their rock sliders are hand made and as such are made with a tolerance for "warped" bodies. and yes all military vehicles are hand made, on an assembly line with very tight tolerances, with multiple points of QA to make sure they meet the design specs.

When you jump a "dead" set of batteries in a 24v truck each maintenance free battery can draw up to 40amps for AGM it can be upwards of 100amps. so if i jump a HMMWV with 4 dead maintenance/maintenance free battery's the draw can be upwards of 160amps just to feed the battery's for 30-45 mins...

so you have change Alternator and Regulator, cleaned terminals, added ground kit. and have the same reading on the meter? my guess is its a bad meter spend a few bucks and pick up an AC/DC clamp meter make sure it has a DC amp reading( A with three dots above a line) itll come in more handy than...

could it be this part the Dual battery Control relay? this is a picture from the Aug 2019 PS MAG it has the NSN for that of 5945-01-501-8715 maybe that will help source parts?

For testing use a Multimeter when this happens and see what the system voltage is. once you are running there is less load as the battereies should have charged back up and the alternator could lower the system voltage a bit since its seeing less load. also there can be voltage lost due to a...

to get a Tach reading from the C.E.Niehoff Alternators/Regulators the Regulator needs to have a AC/P/R terminal. this termnal outputs a AC voltage that when connected to a proper tachmometer will output engine RPM. you can test this by putting you Mulitimeter to AC HZ setting while engine...

check which battery is getting the 15V is it the upper or lower? upper is the one the 24V B+ cable goes to vehicle and its B- is connected to the lowers B+, the lower is the one whose B- is connected to chassis ground. if the lower one is 15V then swap the batteries around so it becomes the...

i think its the heat that kills it as it gets/ stays hot from trying to convert down to 12V from 24V all the time. note: on battery equalization in a 24V system with two 12V batteries, the batteries are like two kids in a trench coat pretending to be a adult 24v battery. So we have an...

http://psmag.radionerds.com/images/0/0d/PS_Magazine_Issue_772_March_2017.pdf on page 14 of PS Mag issue 772 they have the NSN numbers for the parts there. it is a one way clutch pulley so there is a Clutch/Bearing in there. fill the hole with PB blaster as others stated, the shaft isn't...

with all niehoff alternators the colors are Red 24v/28v and yellow 12v/14v, with engine off you should have 24v at the red stud and 12v on the other. https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0018A_uid12172009221392.pdf see image on page 2 of the link. i think you have the cables for...

for the LMTV/FMTV the history of C.E.Niehoff Alternators is 100 amp N1506, then N1509 then N1511, "260 amp upgrade" N1224 200-260A 28V, 140A 14V, then the optional N1313 300 amp 14V/28V. note there is a PS Mag article(PS 783 page 14 feb 18) about army obsoleting the 100 amps in favor of the 260...

yes on the LMTV/FMTV they came with a dual voltage alternator, there should be a name tag on it see which one you have. run all loads off the lower battery(12V) and use a fuse panel to protect. if you want to help your self theres a book by a guy named Dan suillivan that covers fundamental...

For the voltage regulators on the 200 Amp, yes they need to see the battery before they will output Current/Voltage. and don't run loads directly off the Stud on the regulator run all 14v loads off the 12v battery. you will get a max of 50 Amps at 14V from the stud. but it'll vary Amps based on...

https://www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/517913_rev_c.pdf the link above is a PDF of an OTC version of the tool that may assist with how to hook it up if you want to give it a try