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So, ejucate me, are the 5 ton dropside troop seats the same as deuce?

Looks like deuce: M35, M35A2, M211 to me.

What suffix letter do you have on the PE-95? There are -A to at least -E. They are different internal configurations.

Take out, appears ok. $75. Heavy. UPS, Fastenal, motor freight.

Sounds like the only thing you haven't eliminated as a cause is the plug wires. Suggest you grab some solid core ignition wire and stuff it in the plugs and mag and see if that changes anything.

Yours with the attached reservoir is the GM Saginaw type. The pancake reservoir feeds this pump through a hose. There are two versions of this pump, lotsa pressure and even more pressure.

The story goes like this. The 1941,42, and 43 trucks that went to war got consumed and never returned. The 1944 and 45 trucks were considered the latest and greatest and those that shipped to Europe theater were given to France, Norway, Belgium and others after the war. They kept those until...

Parts should be no problem, the engine is the Chrysler 230 right out of a zillion vehicles. That one is called the Clark model Mill 44, with the dual wheels. I believe that one is post war. I had one of these a long time ago, it was a POS so sadly I scrapped it. The fenders are like a ton...

It appears the data plate might be correct for that chassis. The "352" part of the number is GM code for short wheelbase, only about 10% of CCKWs were short, and yours is. The B1 means cargo without winch, no surprise there, all shorts were cargos. The 218119 is the production sequential...

Try tapping on the outer edge of the rivet with a really sharp chisel in a ccw direction.

The cab is from a truck that was brought home from Norway. See if you can find the frame serial number. That will tell the true story.

Yes, the driveline is bound up, drive in reverse while pressing on the lever.

Discussion of serial number location and meaning of the letters numbers: cckw serial number - The GMC CCKW

Are your data plates missing? What is your frame serial number? 1944 is too late for closed cab. RAPCO for the paint you need.

MMM, Prestolite box. The rest of us can dream of a start box that lasts 40 years before giving trouble.

Every bottom end knocking engine I have ever pulled apart has needed the crank turned.

So badass to hit the start button on the left Caddy, having it bust off, then the right Caddy, then hearing the combined rumble, before dropping the Hydramatics into “lets go” and hearing the Caddies scream.

You will not find a digital version of that TM. I am 90% sure they are the same, suggest you PM member "hawk-aggie" who works at a museum that has both a Stuart and Chaffee and all the associated TMs.

This stud shown in the picture should always have +24 volts on it. The little wire is the excite wire and it will have +24 volts with the ignition on. Check for issues with the Cannon plug going into the Protective box.

Looks like the right one unless you have serpentine conversion. Flush block and radiator while you got things open.