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The shims don't adjust the amount of fuel being delivered, they adjust the pump timing. Rotating the pumps within the block adjusts the amount of fuel being supplied by altering the position of that slash cut notch in the plunger.

Pull the top cover and get the injector(s) out. Reattach the hard line by moving the line off to the side. You should have 4 finely atomized mists of fuel spraying radially out from the tip of each injector as you crank it over. You will probably need to bleed out any air in the lines if you...

Seeing that he mentions needing to figure out how to get the injectors out I'd say he has not tested them. I think he removed the lines and just verified fuel flow through the lines.

Yes, the pin in the metering pump shuts off the fuel completely when the rack rotates it fully, that is how the machine shuts down. You will need to pull the cover off to remove the injector. If you have trouble getting the injector out, the thread on the top is metric, same as some lug nuts. I...

The purpose of the test is to see if the injector is over fueling the cylinder. The metering pump does not deliver just the amount of fuel required for each power stroke. The injector opens at about 3000 PSI, sprays 1 fine mist of fuel then closes once the pressure drops below 3000 PSI. , the...

I'd be more inclined to think that cylinder has it's injector stuck open or at least leaking badly. In my experience the perfect shim thickness on the pump is not as critical as they make it seem. When in doubt, 2 black shims seems to always work without a problem. The pump could be bad, and...

The engine will run just fine, but you'll probably take an oil shower if not careful. The gears will be flinging oil all over the place.

I think the bigger issue is that you have no control over your engine speed / frequency. It doesn't matter how far off you are, something is wrong. In one of your pictures it looked like you were down against the low speed throttle stop. There is no way the engine should be at ~1950 HZ with the...

The oil light should stay off above 18 PSI, but the gage is not the determining factor and could be inaccurate. There is a pressure sensor near the gage sending unit that triggers the low oil pressure shut down. RPM should be 1800 ( 60Hz on the gage ) RPM is directly responsible for AC...

Did you notice any fault lights on while the solenoid was trying to shut it down? If there is a fault found, the relay will kill power to the solenoid to shut the machine down. The issue with the throttle knob not having any effect still points towards a governor / fuel rack / metering pump...

I think you may have 1 pump adjusted differently than the others, causing the rack to stop short of the screw and holding the other pumps slightly open. On the rack motion, I don't think it's possible for the rack to really hang up or move slowly ( due to a sticky pump lever etc.) IF the outside...

Once you have all 4 pumps oriented correctly test it again. If you still have the same problem, loosen the jam nuts on the stop screw that the the shut off lever hits when the solenoid pushes it forward. (If the screws are in the original setting they typically have red indicating compound on...

That's helpful information! Previous posts kind of sounded like the solenoid action was delayed after turning off S1 but was the solenoid reacted immediately when hitting the E-stop. You may have the metering pumps adjusted incorrectly. Are all 4 sitting in the block with the fuel supply hoses...

The solenoid has 3 wires. A black common and 2 colored inputs, 1 from the cranking relay and the other from the malfunction indicator. Take a look at the schematic and you can follow the wires. Also below is a picture of the connector wiring at the FSS. Pin 1 at the FSS should have power when...

Because something is wrong with the 10K ;) Seriously, both should act identically. There should not be any delay and there should be no difference between an 802 and an 803. Something electrically is wrong with your 803 if power doesn't disconnect and the solenoid extend out immediately when...

Either way, E- stop or S1, killing power to the fuel solenoid, causing its plunger to spring forward, pushing the rack forward rotating the metering pump pins to the fuel-off position is the ONLY way to shut it off. With it running, watch what the solenoid does when you turn S1 off. it should...