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Pump apart. I found this pic on this site. Here’s a pic of mine. You see the inner sleeve I removed from mine. I’m sure the other guy just didn’t know it came out. Nothing looks real obvious wrong. I do wonder what the extra o-ring in his pic is. At this point im thinkin* of more shims...

Well I put it together with the new injector and it smokes like a steam shovel. So I guess I’m going to tear the pump apart.

I got impatient and pulled the injector without removing the cover. (PITA) The injector looked like this. Mine is the one on the right. The other is one of the used ones I bought. I installed the old injector in the line to the side of the motor. Kind of a pain because I didn’t want to bend...

Ok guys, I got the four injectors and the hold down clamps. I took a look at the TM and it has an exploded diagram of exactly what I got. Something is confusing. There doesn’t appear to be anything that the hold down clamp goes against. There is a groove around the injector that I figure a cir...

I got four used injectors coming. I’m going to do the test when I have them in hand. Thanks

No, I have never had the injectors or pumps tested. (Other than cracking the hard line and spraying fuel.)

Ok, that sounds possible. I hope you’re right. I’m sure an injector is less money than a pump. Let me ask you this. Does the pin in the governor rack shut the fuel off completely? It would appear so since that seems to be the way it shuts down. That Might explain why it took so long to shut...

If you read my post #56, that was the first thing I did and it was spraying fuel all over. What I don’t get, is you seem to be suggesting the injector is not fueling the cylinder. It is over fueling it, so I don’t get the purpose of your test.

If the injector is stuck open, it would leak all the fuel it gets from the pump. So why would it get way more fuel than the other three pumps? These are hydraulic pumps, so they should all deliver approximately the same fuel. Since the fuel is not really compressible, it all goes in the...

So I pulled the hose that feeds the injection pump and plugged it. Started the generator and it runs great. I can dial up and down the rpm. Closed the doors and she runs quiet and no smoke. Hooked some load on it and it powers stuff up as normal. I didn’t have a setup to put a serious load on...

So I finally got some where with this thing. I put the cover back on and I turned all the fuel pumps back as far as the fuel line would allow. I started it and it ran kind of bad and smoked. But, I was able to turn the control knob and adjust the speed. After it was running for maybe 30...

So I finally pulled the front cover and everything looks good with the governor and throttle rack. The springs look good and correct. Question, is there any reason I can’t run this for a few minutes with out this cover. I know the fan/water pump won’t be turning, but I’m thinking for less than...

So I started thinking about this. The HZ guage only goes from 55 to 65. If 1800rpm = 60hz than I guess 55 to 65 represents only 1650 to 1950 rpm. So the engine doesn’t have to run all that bad to swing the needle full scale. (Or am I thinking wrong here?)

I have checked the cable. I can open the door and see the cable / cam thing move when I turn the knob. When the HZ needle was swinging, the engine was running bad, but it didn’t seem to be running as wild as the needle was swinging. Probably be a couple days till I can work on it again. I will...

Now that I got the pump pins correctly in the rack, it appears the cylinders running equal and not so hot. (At least with a laser temp gun. Sometimes my HZ guage is working and sometimes not. When it is running smooth, the guage is around the 62 HZ, but still no control with the knob. On my 5KW...

Some times I have seen a oil pressure fault light, but not always. The oil pressure runs about 25-30 psi which doesn’t sound good, but it will keep the light off. The lever will rotate freely with the selinoid disconnected. (It is lightly spring loaded to go full fuel.) Not sure about two...

Good info, So today I turned all the pumps right against the pushrod tubes. Then I pushed the fuel lines on. This was very difficult because only a little of the nipple is sticking out from the pushrod tube. I started it up and it might have run better. It still seems to be running too fast for...

Are you talking about the rack inside that controls the pumps? How would I know if it was moving fast or slow? The lever on the outside moves quick, but it’s only connected by a spring inside.

I will adjust the pumps to be against the pushrod tubes, although I think I have had them real close already. The stop screw is safety wired. I was going to cut the wire when I noticed that the lever stops just short of it. Like I can slip a piece of paper between the screw and the lever. So...

I was mistaken when I said the E-stop was faster. What happened was I turned the switch off and it kept running, so I hit the E-stop and it shut down. I did this twice and it led me to believe it did something different. But on future shutdowns I found that if I hit the E-stop right away, it...