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Read from this post: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/humvee-starter-flexplate-teeth.210931/post-2533300

Just go into these expecting to replace anything rubber. I usually pull off the hood and cooling stack, and then replace all the rubber hydraulic lines, coolant lines, etc, inspect pulleys, change balancer and crank pulley. LeroyDiesel.com has good quality balancers and billet aluminum pulleys...

Finally decided to drop the trans on my truck and change the flexplate. I had issues where occasionally the starter wouldn’t engage the flexplate teeth and just grind them down further. This spawned from some start switch issues many months ago. Needless to say I drove around with a 1” wrench to...

Definitely takes patience to renew the original x doors, looking awesome.

Welp this may have something to do with it shucking the belt heh

Really? Will have to figure it out with David then, I got both to test the length. I think I used 12469149-3 when swapping the 400 to a 200A a while back, gonna have to go back and check.

12469149-3 is too long 12460226-4 is too short Pulley next to oil filler is offset towards the back and misaligned with the rest trying to remember which hole the alternator bracket should be bolted through, since the top bracket has 2 holes. That’s my only suspicion as to the belt length...

Lol

Also PSA: If your engine is a Melton rebuild, the drain hole will be permanently plugged. I’ve also seen the rubber injection pump feed line dry rotted on a few trucks, thus a small leak.

Rebuilt and re-mounted my Red Dot AC system. About half the fittings are new, all new hoses, flushed evap and condenser, new expansion valve, new condenser fans, and a new mounting solution. System is oiled and charged and blowing cold air with green lights on the ProTechT module. These units...

I suppose given the heat levels it’s normally exposed to, could also just leave a heat gun pointed into it at full tilt for a bit lol Curious how well this’ll work for ya, might give it a try on mine. For now I just robbed a cat from another truck, so the clogged one is sitting on a shelf.

I did the same thing, but when the runflats are covered in lube/grease then you look like a dog that just rolled in fresh droppings when finished.

I feel like that might cause an imbalance with both of them not being tight against the rims and just bouncing around the outer wall of the tire.

Oh - well I’ve got a local guy, not a chain. He did the lock ring tires/wheels on my deuce, may be willing to give these a try. Shall find out heh

Oh I’ve already done it a while back, new BFG Bajas on mine. I yanked the run flat out by using 2 trucks pulling apart, similar to @Coug I just have to do it on another 8 tires soon is what I’m not looking forward to lol

My most dreaded part is honestly the run flat insert. Ratchet strapping and prying that thing is pretty lame. Makes me wonder if a tire shop could at least handle that part if I bring them the tires and run flats.

A Makin me want some 24 bolt wheels for myself heh

I should probably keep my paperwork in the vehicle too but last time I got lit up the cop was more curious about how to get one himself 🤣 I’m a little paranoid about keeping paperwork in a semi-half-kinda-locked-but-not-really vehicle as well lol Where’d you source the big cans from? I see...

ooh fun, what flavor of spinny thing :P

Finally got to finishing the camo on my 1043, though I fudged a spot on the hood and need to sand / respray a small area. Was a little hard to reach (probably should’ve just raised the hood) and I sprayed too thick of a layer of brown, so it left a very odd shiny spot. Other than that, painting...