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Gama Goat owner err herder

patracy

patracy

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So I pulled the trigger on a goat from a CAMO member. It's still at papabear's place, but it will make the trip back home when we can work out the times. I know there's no brakes on it right now. The MC cap is off and there's no fluid left in there. They drove the goat around last time it was running but one or possibly both of the rear tires were locked up. I know the driveshaft has been disconnected. Is it possible the brakes are simply seized up like the 900 series trucks do? I was able to turn the drive shaft slightly, so I know the pinion is still loose.

Can the goats be driven with the "trailer" removed? Or maybe with the drum removed? I know the U joints on the drivers rear axle need replacing as well. Probably going to go through all of them.

Does anyone have any TM's for them? I'd love to upload them to the site for everyone.
 
Stalwart

Stalwart

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Yes, you probably have seized drums on the "carrier." You can drive without the carrier attached but don't drive fast, it will be VERY squirrely. BTW, they don't have a "trailer", it is part of the vehicle, that drives it and steers as well. I got rid of all my TM's when my wife sold her Goat.
 
patracy

patracy

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Thanks for the corrections. I had heard it was a "carrier" before, but it was a brain fart. I knew about the rear steering as well.

Any pointers for getting the drums off? Remove tire/wheel and apply a 3lb hammer repeatedly? Propane torch to heat it up?
 
doghead

doghead

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The drum should come of easily. Remove the center bolt. Then remove the perimeter bolts(drum). Then use the jack bolt holes and screw the bolts in to pull the drum. Go slow and even. I have run into one, where the axle spline was rusted into the hub spline. I had to drill out the rivets to remove that one. If all goes well, it is very easy to remove. No need to remove the tire, unless you need to pry the drum out/off.

Once the drum is off, you need to remove the brake backing plate. It is held on by 3(I think) bolts. The whole plate is "keyed" on a spline. Remove the short S shaped brake line.

I might have TMs on CD. I'll look soon.
 
Last edited:
papabear

papabear

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doghead said:
The drum should come of easily. Remove the center bolt. Then remove the perimeter bolts(drum). Then use the jack bolt holes and screw the bolts in to pull the drum. Go slow and even. I have run into one, where the axle spline was rusted into the hub spline. I had to drill out the rivets to remove that one. If all goes well, it is very easy to remove. No need to remove the tire, unless you need to pry the drum out/off.
Once the drum is off, you need to remove the brake backing plate. It is held on by 3(I think) bolts. The whole plate is "keyed" on a spline. Remove the short S shaped brake line.
I might have TMs on CD. I'll look soon.
Click to expand...
Patracy, I heard from a certain well respected member of SS that there may a certain amount "banging" with a good hammer required to loosen said items as well.:-|

Evidently, said member smashed himself in the head with said hammer.
Had the hammer contacted any other body part of said member, there may have been serious damage.:oops:

If "banging" with a BFH is deemed necessary, I recommend a helmet, full body armor and a call to put Tigger on medical alert.

Or...maybe it was just the said member...just sayin...
 

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doghead

doghead

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So, you remember the hole in my forehead, from the drum removal, huh?

Man, that was a lot of blood on the ground! Squirted right out about 2-3 feet, too!

Never hit a 3/8" punch, with a 12# sledge!

Only took 4 stitches to close the hole.
 
papabear

papabear

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doghead said:
So, you remember the hole in my forehead, from the drum removal, huh?
Man, that was a lot of blood on the ground! Squirted right out about 2-3 feet, too!
Never hit a 3/8" punch, with a 12# sledge!
Only took 4 stitches to close the hole.
Click to expand...
Yup...I remember, and I've done the same thing whacking around on other stuff.

I attribute a large part of my dain brammage to said events.
 

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Joe Gamma

Joe Gamma

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Congrats on the Goat...It is amazing how no one can walk by one, they just have to stop and stare. Everyone at the VFW knows I call mine my " Big Bottom Girl" because of all the money she takes me for but I love her.
Nothing drives like a Goat.

Joe
 
Gamagoat1

Gamagoat1

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Goat drums should come off eaisely after the center bolt and outer bolts are removed. There are bolts for removing the drum, insert them evenly on each side. If it balks, back off on the brake shoe adjustment. If the brake shoes clear it will come off nicely. Be real sure , once the drum is off, to remove the bolts, or just back them off. These brake drums are not available at you local parts place. When you replace the drum use the center bolt to pull the axle into the splines, once you have the outer bolts lined up for their respective holes. If this isn't done the splines and the drum can be rendered toast..
 

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wreckerman893

wreckerman893

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If you need a parts vehicle there is one coming up on an unammed gooberment sales site at a location not too far from you. Might want to do a search for "gamma goat".

As I understand it you have to break it down to it's basic components in order to get it out the gate but as they say......"parts is parts".
 
Emmett

Emmett

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After you get the rear drums off, you can seperate the carriers brake system from the tractor by disconnecting the so called "quick disconnect" on the RH side of where the carrier meets the tractor. You will then need to get the brakes working on the tractor.
It is not wise to drive the goat tractor on the highway without the carrier. It will get kinda wild.
 
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