Multifuel head gaskets

Hello SS,
Forgive me if this subject has been covered before, but It has been over five years since I have had to change the head gaskets on a multifuel. Are the new type gaskets really that much better than the old style with the fire rings? I never had any problems with the old type and the new ones are very expensive. A complete NOS gasket set for the LDT465 can be purchased for $150-200 (including old style head gaskets). Some one told me Memphis charges $200+ just for the new type head gaskets. I have used the copper spray gasket sealer on the old type head gaskets with no problems.

Also what are your thoughts on having the heads resurfaced during this process? I have had them done in the past, is it really necessary? I'm not trying to be cheap, just don't like to spend money when not needed (wife and daughters take care of that for me).

Thanks, Karl

For what it's worth (consider the value/cost of free advice) I would never do a head gasket without having the head surfaced. My $.02

clint is right on, heads will move over time, some people even deck the block apon rebuilding some engines,

leaking heads

Thanks for the reassurance on planning the heads. The heads where leaking a little oil when I first brought this truck home, towing the dozer around has certainly increased the flow.

This a good excuses for purchasing a five ton.

Thanks, Karl

head gaskets

I bought new style head gaskets from Memphis a couple of years ago when I did my truck engine and I think they were 75$ each. I think the new style is more fool-proof and the old style failed due to installation error by soldier A and soldier B. I didnt want to take any chances on mine and bought the new style.

Head gaskets

Hey Blake,
Are you volunteering to help on changing the head gaskets? The last ones I did are on the truck Harry purchased from me.

Karl

RE: Head gaskets

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/modules/PNphpBB2/files/headgaskets_122.jpg

for my money and effort, I'd spend the extra on the new style gaskets.

RE: Head gaskets

ABSOLUTELY plane the heads every time you change the head gaskets. With all the heat and pressure the heads are subjected to, they are going to move around a little bit. One or two thousandths will make or break your new gasket set, especially if you do not deck the block. Follow the torquing instructions in the TM, and do not forget to re-torque once and ONLY once after a few hours of run time!

RE: Head gaskets

whats the best tool for planing the head?
deck the block? What do you mean by that?

RE: Head gaskets

You have to take the heads to an automotive machine shop. There, they are cut on a head and block milling machine, a specially designed sweep mill that will accurately true the surface of a head. "Decking a block" is a term used to describe trueing up the top surface of an engine block on a sweep mill.
Now, just for informations sake, I take my heads to a machine shop and have them hot tanked, magnafluxed (looking for cracks), and have the heads checked for flatness. If the head surface is within .001", I don't have them cut. Over .001" and they get milled. Blocks normally don't need decking unless the engine was run with a blown head gasket for some time, or severely overheated. You have to be careful milling multifuel heads, there is not a huge amount of clearance in the combustion chamber area.

Blake

Yeah Karl, I'll help!

RE: Head gaskets

oil seeps on the sides of the engine from the head gasket.
should i try tighting them?
or replace head gasket?

oil seeps on the sides of the engine from the head gasket.
should i try tighting them?
or replace head gasket?

Click to expand...

I think there was a PS Magazine article that said that oil seepage from the head is, to some extent, normal... I don't think I'd change it for that reason alone unless it was really making a mess.

No its not that bad.
Thanks

I hate to be a manual thumping type, but if you check out the PM section of the manual (no PM magazine) it will tell you what is a deadline leak or a watch and see leak. Leaks are classified follows:

Class 1 Moist area visible (this sounds like what you guys are talking about with the head gasket)
Class 2 Visible drops seen on the item.
Class 3 Fluid leaking while you watch forming puddles on the ground. (Most of the time this is a deadline item)

Right now my cucv has a class 2 from a crack in the oil cooler tube. I am fixing it tomorrow but it leaves a small puddle and see drips off the bottom of the fitting but it is not actively leaking while I watch it.

JD is correct that PS mag said some weeping and even some bubbles are not cause to change a head gasket, wait till the fire ring is sticking out. Sometimes the old style works....some times it doesn't. I only use the late style black gaskets. I bought the head set from Tom at CSI. I have never had the heads milled or the block decked. The top of the piston liner is the mating surface on the block for the compression and all my heads have checked out with a straight edge. Also keep in mind the new head gaskets have a new torque spec and DO NOT require re-torque after warm up.
Jeff

I'd have to agree with Chuck, some slight seepage of oil (especially on the intake side) is NOT a cause for alarm UNLESS there are visible droplets running down the side of the engine or puddles (no matter how small) under the engine after it sits for a while. Absent the last two conditions, just power wash the block from time to time and be happy with it. Do NOT re-torque the heads unless you have recently (within 3-4 hours engine time) installed new head gaskets. Check the instructions that came with your head gaskets, apparently some (but not all) do NOT require a re-torque after initial installation (although I personally find this hard to believe).

Got the leak fixed on my cucv. It is nice to have a partsvee on property. No leak now.