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You said "brand new tires with balancing beads". But do we know for sure that you are running with just beadlocks - and all dry and clean inside? Because normally, tires with runflat inserts also have (should have) that special grease - which obviously would cause exactly what you stated above...(?)

TM 9-2320-279-24P-1, Fig. 58, Item 1 ............. AAX-0851............. CAP, FILLER OPENING...............NSN 2930-00-789-0117 Technical data, drawings and cross reference for that cap is here: https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/2930-00-789-0117.html

Doesn't look like carbon to me... missing aluminum it is (!) Guess that particular piston would have been the next in line, to seize up....

That link takes me to their earthmover tires...???

First time I ever heard of them.... thanks for the hint! Not sure where you saw them, at that price... (?) Closest I could find would be their AN8-13 (cad-plated, undrilled), 1-15/32 nom.length, 11/16 grip length, at $2.08 each. Would be great if they had the correct lock nuts for this, too.

Long time ago.... some intelligent men already found out: In a winch truck, if you had the bumper installed with the "U" facing down, and say you wanted to pull out a stump, the wire rope would start cutting its way into your bumper!:oops:

Not?? Do a search for Henkel's "Loctite 518". There are at least three different sizes to choose from: 6ml and 50ml tubes and also a 300ml cartridge. Available everywhere; Napa, eBay, Amazon, they all carry them. Not the cheapest gasket maker ever, but unlike silicone and PU sealants, this...

White Owl has them: https://whiteowlparts.com/store/store.php?crn=232&rn=826&action=show_detail (although not exactly cheap, and missing the 4° bend in the middle) This diagram shows where to bend them....

Of course...! Axles will no longer carry the weight of the truck, once you pulled the U-bolts.

Remove both U-bolts. Then loosen bolts #11 and separate (pry) the spring pack off of the spring seat. It should easily slide off, after removing the spindle nuts

TM 9-2320-209-34P (December 1976), Section 16, Fig. 127

Title changed...

Just use plenty of tire lube and you should be fine.

Agreed, even if 3500 miles is not enough to consider this a good used motor... Reading post 1 again, it doesn't seem as if there was any sign of loss of power or cylinder(s) misfiring, shortly before the disaster. How could a faulty injector cause this much havoc in just seconds?

I suspect you are talking about solid rubber runflat inserts, AKA "donuts" ? .... like this one....... ? .... and not this type of full rubber beadlock .....? .... or this other version, steel/rubber beadlock ???

Exact............? :giggle: Hex head, 1/2”-20 tpi UNF, Grade-8, L= 1-½”, partially threaded, 5/8" shank (grip) BTW: Flanges are 3/8" thick. So, if the stock bolts are hard to find (or too expensive), a std 2" long, Grade 8 bolt with a 3/4" unthreaded shank will also do, after cutting off...

Can anyone explain this mark on the exhaust valve? A ½”-lockwasher would be about that size... But since this mark is so perfectly centered on the valve head and there are no evident signs on the corresponding piston, I doubt that the engine "ate" a washer... (?)

Squeeze or twist-and-screw in, depending on what type of beadlock we are talking about. Or are you referring to runflats? Often yes, especially if tires were kind of collapsed/compressed from being stacked in a pile. Yes.

That's correct. 1 foot wider but exactly the same length.

Sweet dreams.........! There would be hundreds of good options - if......... the cab was only 4 inches longer!