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PTO rebuild issues

JCKnife

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I'm tearing into my new PTO (new to me, that is) to fully service it before installing it on my truck. First two issues are these:

1) took the back cover off and found that one section of the casing around one bolt is broken off. It's a pie-shaped wedge of missing material that narrows as it nears the bolt. Clearly it was not leaking from here. I'll be scraping off gasket pieces for days. Is it OK to put it back into service like that? I'm not very worried about it...

2) I'm following the TM step-by-step but I'm not sure how to remove the eyebolt from the shift shaft. It has a locknut. I'm turning so hard I'm afraid I'm going to bend the shift fork. But if I go ahead and take the shaft out it's perfectly round and smooth...I'll never get that eyebolt out. Anyone with experience on how to remove that?
 

JCKnife

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OK here's a pic of the broken spot in the case.

Eyebolt not pictured because I want to hear from someone who has done it!
 

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emmado22

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I wouldnt worry about the pie shaped piece that is missing, but I sure would want to FIND it before it tears up anything in there.
 

JCKnife

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I wouldnt worry about the pie shaped piece that is missing, but I sure would want to FIND it before it tears up anything in there.
Yeah, I thought of that too. I don't think it's in there but since I'll be taking everything out, I'll know for sure.
 

m16ty

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I haven't ever done a complete rebuild but I've had several deuce and 5-ton PTOs completely apart. The broken piece isn't great but you should be ok.

I've always taken the eye off by putting a punch through the eye hole and turning the lock nut with a wrench. Don't try and let the shaft do the holding or you could break a shifting fork or bend the shaft.
 

JCKnife

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the pto is "open" to the tranny, so it is very possible the pie piece is in the trany itself.
Possible, but...that seems like a long way to travel since this is off the back cover--the opposite end of the PTO.

The transmission is already busted anyway, though, and it's going to be Gimpy's problem soon enough. I'll make sure he's aware of the possibility.
 

JCKnife

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Work is proceeding on the PTO tear down, I think I'm on Frame 9 of the step-by-step from the TM.

I'm finding a little rust on some of the gears. Not bad, I think it'll clean up OK. But what is the best way to do so? I assume that preserving as much as possible the original shape and profile of each tooth is critical.
 

JCKnife

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I'll take a pic later. It's really not bad (I don't think--never done anything like this!)

Right now I'm struggling with getting the flange off the PTO output shaft. I removed the set screw and tried a puller, heat, etc. Won't budge! The TM doesn't cover this--it's already off when this process begins. Yet no other TM covers removing it, either (that I've seen).
 
Work is proceeding on the PTO tear down, I think I'm on Frame 9 of the step-by-step from the TM.

I'm finding a little rust on some of the gears. Not bad, I think it'll clean up OK. But what is the best way to do so? I assume that preserving as much as possible the original shape and profile of each tooth is critical.

the best way is to wash everything, bake everything, and then glass bead it
 

davey8943

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Right now I'm struggling with getting the flange off the PTO output shaft. I removed the set screw and tried a puller, heat, etc. Won't budge! The TM doesn't cover this--it's already off when this process begins. Yet no other TM covers removing it, either (that I've seen).
Mine took a pretty BFH to get loose.... Don't be afraid to hit it!

By the way, if you run into needing any internal parts, I might have some spares around.

I'll check up with you sometime next week before I come down for those running boards and windshields.

Dave
 

JCKnife

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Mine took a pretty BFH to get loose.... Don't be afraid to hit it!
Thanks Dave. So did you brace the flange and hit the shaft, or how? I can't see where you'd get an angle to swing at the flange at all.


the best way is to wash everything, bake everything, and then glass bead it
I don't quite know what that means but I'll look it up. (well, the bake part esp. I know what washing and glass beading mean).
 

davey8943

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Joe,

I think I had the whole housing in the Vise with the cover side (opposite transmission mount flange) facing up. That barely gave me enough to swing and catch the flange on the adapter.

I swiped a pic that Gringeltaube had posted and put an arrow on it showing the swing direction.

Don't forget to soak it in some penetrating oil overnight, I like PB Blaster.

Dave
 

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m16ty

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I've used a steering wheel puller in the past with good results to pull the flange.

A little surface rust on the gears won't hurt anything. Bearings are another story. Very much rust at all on a bearing will cause it to fail fairly quick. I think I remember in some of Gringeltaube's post that some of the bearings are almost impossible to find.

If you run into something you're having trouble with, I wouldn't hesitate to contact Gringeltaube. He knows these PTOs inside and out.
 

gringeltaube

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JCKnife: I would not recommend hitting that flange with a hammer! Material is soft and relatively thin (little over 1/4") and may end up deformed.
Get a stronger puller if the first one was to small or weak. And while under tension do a quick heating of the hub, with a wet rag wrapped around the shaft.

Ty: Thanks for comments! All I know is that I have forgotten to much....:)

And.... only the cage roller bearings for the input gear & shaft are considered obsolete and probably nowhere to be found, new. All other bearings are std sizes/numbers, no problem.

G.
 
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