M1009 wait light/glow plug card issue

[CycleJay]

Hi Guys,

This morning, when I started my truck it started fine..

Then after a few minutes of idling to warm up, and let the voltmeter needle go to green.

The wait light came back on and the glow plug card under the dash started
making a buzzing sound, until I either revved the engine a little or shut off
the engine..

What is going on? What do I have to check, fix or replace for this to stop?

Any advice, would be greatly appreciated.. God bless all of you..

Thank you, good day,

CJ

 

[one2boost]

I never had that happen to me or ever recall having someone reporting a complaint similar to that. Are you sure the buzzing sound came from the card? IIRC, there is a buzzer so to speak on the fuse box assembly. IMO I would not worry about it if it never happens again. What if you warm up the truck and get it to normal operating temp, turn the engine off. Then pull the card out and try starting the truck again. It should start no matter how cold it is main thing the engine is up to temp.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi Guys,

By the way, Isn't the glow plug module and glow plug controller card the same part?
Or are they two different parts?

Thank you,

CJ

 

[allenhillview]

Yes they are one of the same part

 

[CycleJay]

Allen,

Thank you, I thought so..

Now I just have to figure out what is going on?

Any ideas?

Good day,

CJ

 

[one2boost]

So does something buzz when the card is removed and engine running?

 

[GFB]

Are you sure it wasn't the relay clicking off and on rapidly to keep the voltage in check?

 

[sierrajcharlie]

I was having the same thing happen awhile ago. Start the thing, the voltmeter would go to its "normal" spot. Then when a "buzz" of a couple of seconds came, seemingly from the glow plug module, the voltmeter would come up a bit and stay there. To me it's when the plugs were no longer necessary. Unhooked different things, seat belt buzzer etc, until all that was left was the module. I pulled the card and cleaned up the contacts but it still happened. I was checking things under the hood later and found that I had 12 volts +/- at the GPR but only was getting 8 volts +/- coming out of it. I replaced the GPR and haven't heard the noise since. Hope this helps.

 

[CycleJay]

Hello Charlie,

Yes, it does. I will see about getting a new GPR & installing it.
And pray that is all that it is, I will also get a new GP controller card anyway too.
You have given me hope.

thank you, Good night,

CJ
P.s. the buzz seemed to come from the gp card, but when I tried to start it with the hood up this afternoon, I heard the buzz come from the metal can 4 terminal relay.

 

[GFB]

My relay "buzzes" every time on the final cycle before it's done. I don't think it really hurts anything other than some wear on the relay. It is a new relay from napa.

I think it's fairly common on other cucv's too.

 

[O.D. Fever]

I also think its your relay, the one on the drivers engine side firewall.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the information. Looks like I will replace the Glow Plug Relay than,
as soon as I can afford a new one.. (a few days, if not sooner..)

Good night,

CJ

 

[doghead]

Before you change the relay, test your battery voltages. Low battery voltage can cause a relay to chatter.

You can also measure the voltage on the input terminal and the output terminal to determine it's proper function. Both sides should read the same, when it is "on". Less on the output side would mean it's bad.

Also, measure the voltage on the small terminal. It needs to be 12v(less would mean you may have a bad front battery.

 

[CycleJay]

Good morning Doghead,

Thanks for the information.

I would do that, if I had a meter. Would auto part stores loan those?
If not I cannot test them.
And I do not want to run the risk of damaging something,
by driving my truck in the condition it is now.

Thank you, Good day,

CJ

 

[AceHigh]

If you are going to own old vehicles, bite the bullet and get a meter. They are not too expensive, plus I use mine all the time for the house, testing camera batteries and all sorts of stuff. I wonder if I could get along without one!

ETA I have one at home and one at work. By the way, I checked on Amazon and there are a bunch of new ones for sale under $10, but I like higher quality ones myself, but those will work fine.

 

[biggestc69]

If you own a CUCV a meter is a must. I picked up a cheap one to keep in the truck from NAPA for $15.

 

[cpf240]

Not that it is the best meter, but Harbor Freight often has one "free with purchase" in their coupon ads.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Okay, no worries, I will get a meter, no problem.
If I can get one from Napa for $15 dollars, then that works for me, when I get paid.

Then once I get one, I will have to read the directions, and learn how to use it.

If I replace the Glow Plud Relay that is there with the, BWD S603
from O'reilly, will that be a good enough replacement?
Because O'reilly has it for $39.99..
And Napa has the ECH ST85 for about $61.00...

By the way IF I have to replace my two batteries,
what pair of batteries should I replace them with? (brand names, part #'s please..)


Thank you, Have a good night,

CJ

 

[epartsman]

Look at the CUCV wiki at the beiging of this section as it will tell you what batteries can be used as well as a wealth of other useful info and part#'s.
I am runnung 2 optima red tops and I have a 24V solargizer to keep them maintained but that is a very pricey upgrade considering your situation so look at the wiki.

 

[CycleJay]

Hello Epartsman.

Thank you for the info. I will check out the wiki again.

By the way, I looked at the solargizer on their website,
you are right it is roughly $519.00.
So I will be doing that upgrade when I have $519.00 to spend,
because it would be worth it for the peace of mind of my batteries
always being topped off. So to speak.

Good night,

CJ