After losing a wheel and almost my life...

[MikeOneZeroZeroNiner]

I'm going to replace my wheel hubs, studs, rotors, and bearings on both sides.

I was on the freeway last night when the 1009 suddenly got violently shaky; then substantially lower to the ground, bringing me to a screaming, grinding, smoky halt (well the tires were screaming, I was yelling obscenities) but not before hitting the guardrail. It just couldn't resist the guardrail.. My front passenger wheel sheared the bolts off my hub and continued rolling down the freeway (still missing).

I was wondering if anyone has part numbers for the parts I listed above? I would really like some Grade 8 studs if they're available. I'm not sure how to find these since its on a 3/4 ton chassis, if there's even a difference.

I just ordered some new steel wheels with 35s.

 

[cucv1833]

Wow! Thats pretty crazy. Glad your alright.
You should be able to get most items any parts store. Regular replacement parts should last. You should be able to buy everthing for a regular K-5 Blazer. The whole 3/4 rating thing is basiclly just the rear spring rating I think.

You can check the TM for part numbers and cross check them on the I-net and find everything you need.

 

[cjcottrill]

Same thing happened to me when I first bought my 08. THe previous owner had put aluminum wheels on it. I was still having the "death wobble" syndrome, wheel started to wobble, appears that some of the aluminun lug nuts came loose, sheared the rest. Local auto parts store had all the parts in stock. I did a little work on the king pins, put the steel wheels back on, replaced studs & rotor, no more issues.

 

[ODdave]

This is why properly torqued lug nuts are so cruicial. To many people just "crank em tight" or "tighten them with the impact" Both are HORRIBLY WRONG. ALWAYS use a torque wrench and the proper sequence to tighten them to spec. The 80's style chevy 1/2 tons had a problem with weak wheel studs as it is and not treating them right only amplifies the issue.

 

[cucv1833]

This is why properly torqued lug nuts are so cruicial. To many people just "crank em tight" or "tighten them with the impact".

Yep - I just give it 2-grunts and a Moan with a breaker bar.

 

[spicergear]

On my trip back from TTC my GMC duramax truck started bumping around more than normal (pintle hook...you know) so I pulled over to see that three of eight left rear studs had broken off and the other five lug nuts were only on by a couple of threads. The other side were loose too. I went up to the front end and put the lug wrench on the front lug at the 12 o'clock position, pulled it to 11 o'clock then is swung free. The truck was purchased the week earlier and literally driven off the lot (used) hooked up to the trailer, loaded and headed to California. I know the dealership had the wheels off because I told them when looking at the truck that their detail guys took off all the wheel weights. They didn't put them on tight enough. The dealer gave me crap on the phone while I was at a Sapp Bros. (?) truck stop in Nebraska (I think) telling me that I should have checked the lugs becuase I was pulling a trailer. I ate his lunch on that... "You mean to tell that when a person buys a 3/4 ton diesel truck for work they have to retorque the lugs?!" 'well, ummm...' "How about your jackass shop guys don't know what they're doing- you tell me how eight lugs torqued to 140# a piece are gonna ALL come loose at each wheel?!" We tighted the lugs up as best we could on the now damaged wheel and limped home from Nebraska at 50mph. NO GM shop could get me in before 2-3 days.

I also posted a week or two ago about lugs being overtight and breaking studs on an over the road truck accident and invetigation for the lawsuit. Stuff that properly tightened usually doesn't come loose OR break...especially when you have six, eight, or ten of them.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Mike, a guy I work for has new blazer axles in the crate. PM if you'd like more info. Swapping a whole axle might save time and money.

 

[wayne pick]

Mike, Not to be a wise a$$, but did you go over your truck since blowing a rear tire on the freeway? Still got those old tires on it? You cannot just throw plates on these old trucks and hammer them down the highway witthout risking disaster. It's good to hear you didn't get hurt, but that could have gone really bad. Hitting the guard rail probably saved you from rolling it-REALLY BAD. I strongly urge you to have your truck gone over by a reputable front end/suspension shop before running it at highway speeds again or making any large tire/rim modifacations. Have them install a steering dampiner, or two that matches the size and weight of tires you plan on puting on it. good brand name gas shocks will add stability also. If it get's costly, throw those crated axles you were offered in it. Get your truck fixed so you can enjoy it. Crashing it is no fun. Good luck, WCP.

 

[that1028guy]

I agree, scary as ****, but for the most part an avoidable incident. I had that happen to me 2 seprate times. One in a customers car that I put new frt brakes and rotors on, and "Missed" the rf wheel lost it on the test drive... and the other was on a car I had recently purchaced. Both times MY fault, for not double checking. As far as the wheel studs on your 1008, they are "beat out" "press in" type studs. Beat the old ones out, put the new ones in, use a old lugnut as a spacer and tighten them till they bottom out. Best done off the truck, but doeable on the truck. If you can take it to a machine shop, let hem do it, or just get new rotors.... Either way, proper torque is your friend. Hope this helps......

 

[paraclete comes]

wow glad your ok

 

[Speedwoble]

Remember that on a proper rim/hub system the studs should not be carrying any weight. The wheel should tightly pilot onto a matching projection on the hub. The studs and nuts are simply to hold the wheel onto that pilot. Aftermarket wheels may eliminate this feature and are therefor asking the studs to carry the weight. I am with the previous posters that this is likely a case of improper torque.

 

[spicergear]

Same thing happened to me when I first bought my 08. THe previous owner had put aluminum wheels on it. I was still having the "death wobble" syndrome, wheel started to wobble, appears that some of the aluminun lug nuts came loose, sheared the rest. Local auto parts store had all the parts in stock. I did a little work on the king pins, put the steel wheels back on, replaced studs & rotor, no more issues.

Aluminum lug nuts?

 

[73m819]

Another thing I have seen to cause wheel lost , is using aluminum rims with steel rim lugs, the aluminum squashes out, also BIG oversize tires on aluminum rims, the side to side load on the rim squashes the aluminium out, another is using aluminum adaptors to go from 6 lug to 8 lug, again, the aluminum squashes out., all the above causes loose lug nuts and wheel lost

 

[flighht2k5]

This is why properly torqued lug nuts are so cruicial. To many people just "crank em tight" or "tighten them with the impact" Both are HORRIBLY WRONG. ALWAYS use a torque wrench and the proper sequence to tighten them to spec. The 80's style chevy 1/2 tons had a problem with weak wheel studs as it is and not treating them right only amplifies the issue.

Then every tire shop I have ever been to is horribly wrong.

 

[ODdave]

Then every tire shop I have ever been to is horribly wrong.

Chances are the tire shop is using torque limiting sticks. If you want to shell out $300+ for a full set be my guest. Otherwise use a torque wrench. I have a full set only because I do this every day for a living. If your tire shops are not using any type of torque metering device then YES they are wrong.

 

[73m819]

Then every tire shop I have ever been to is horribly wrong.

I would change tire shops, ALL the good shops use a torque limiting adaptor with there air wrench, these adaptors are color coded for the correct torque

 

[TyJustice]

Chances are the tire shop is using torque limiting sticks. If you want to shell out $300+ for a full set be my guest. Otherwise use a torque wrench. I have a full set only because I do this every day for a living. If your tire shops are not using any type of torque metering device then YES they are wrong.

What is the proper torque for the oem cucv wheel?

 

[flighht2k5]

Chances are the tire shop is using torque limiting sticks. If you want to shell out $300+ for a full set be my guest. Otherwise use a torque wrench. I have a full set only because I do this every day for a living. If your tire shops are not using any type of torque metering device then YES they are wrong.

That must be the case. All I have ever seen was them using an impact wrench.

 

[nf6x]

I've been buying my civilian tires at America's Tire Center, and I expect that I'll go there when I replace my M1009's tires, too. They use torque limiting sticks and follow up with a torque wrench. I haven't seen them do anything that I would consider wrong.

 

[MikeOneZeroZeroNiner]

Hey guys, as usual I'm getting a ton of useful info here. I'm likely going to purchase the axle that was offered, if the shipping isn't going to kill me. I am also concerned that I get a set of rims that match the center bore of the hub. And I would absolutely love to find some grade 8 wheel studs. I'm trying to make this thing reliable but I'm kind of slacking.