- 5,252
- 3,968
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
Hey all,
I had a starting problem a couple of times at the Aberdeen show. When I flipped the Batt switch to the on position, the gauges would kick on like always. Then, when I flipped the Stop-Run-Start switch to the Run position it would sometimes turn on the CTIS/ABS and sometimes not. Then, when flipping it to the Start position, it would make one hit with the starter and then start kicking the solenoid like the batteries were dead. We got it jumped at Aberdeen and we didn't turn it off all the way home. The next day I tried to start it and nothing comes on when I turn the Batt switch on. The Protective Control Box (PCB) will click, but no gauges move. When I turn the Stop-Run-Start (SRS) switch to the Run or Start position, I get nothing.
Terminal B on the Batt switch sends 12v, yes 12v from the center tap, to terminal A on the PCB. That is working. Then, terminal D on the PCB is supposed to send 24v to terminal B on the ignition switch. It is only getting around 2-3v at the SRS switch, which explains why the ABS/CTIS won't kick on and why it won't start.
I fully charged the batteries with a charger and still no dice. I read another post about similar symptoms in a M813. The post mentioned rebuilding the PCB, but no one ever came up with the article.
The problem is, I am supposed to have the truck at a 5 year old kid's birthday party this saturday afternoon. He loves the military and has been begging his parents to ask me to bring it. I agreed and the kid is stoked so I hate to disappoint the little guy.
I might be able to have one over-nighted here. Anyone have any suggestions on rebuilding it? From the wiring diagram it looks like it provides a 24v feed to the gauges, the alt, the CTIS, the ABS, the starter, the air dryer, etc... so I ain't going anywhere without it.
Thoughts?
I had a starting problem a couple of times at the Aberdeen show. When I flipped the Batt switch to the on position, the gauges would kick on like always. Then, when I flipped the Stop-Run-Start switch to the Run position it would sometimes turn on the CTIS/ABS and sometimes not. Then, when flipping it to the Start position, it would make one hit with the starter and then start kicking the solenoid like the batteries were dead. We got it jumped at Aberdeen and we didn't turn it off all the way home. The next day I tried to start it and nothing comes on when I turn the Batt switch on. The Protective Control Box (PCB) will click, but no gauges move. When I turn the Stop-Run-Start (SRS) switch to the Run or Start position, I get nothing.
Terminal B on the Batt switch sends 12v, yes 12v from the center tap, to terminal A on the PCB. That is working. Then, terminal D on the PCB is supposed to send 24v to terminal B on the ignition switch. It is only getting around 2-3v at the SRS switch, which explains why the ABS/CTIS won't kick on and why it won't start.
I fully charged the batteries with a charger and still no dice. I read another post about similar symptoms in a M813. The post mentioned rebuilding the PCB, but no one ever came up with the article.
The problem is, I am supposed to have the truck at a 5 year old kid's birthday party this saturday afternoon. He loves the military and has been begging his parents to ask me to bring it. I agreed and the kid is stoked so I hate to disappoint the little guy.
I might be able to have one over-nighted here. Anyone have any suggestions on rebuilding it? From the wiring diagram it looks like it provides a 24v feed to the gauges, the alt, the CTIS, the ABS, the starter, the air dryer, etc... so I ain't going anywhere without it.
Thoughts?