Air Conditioning a Deuce

[RAYZER]

That's some really good engineering there Dave, im impressed!

 

[Woodsplinter]

I'm almost finished with my deuce A/C install and I ran into the same spacing problem. I went the simpler route (I think) and got 3 washers with a 1.5" hole in the center. I then epoxied them together with steel epoxy. (I don't weld and was afraid welding would through the "unit" out of balance). I then carefully drilled 4 holes to match the hole pattern in the fan. Using new bolts that are 1/2" longer than the original ones I bolted the fan blade back onto the water pump. Works perfectly and no excess vibration to tear up the water pump!

 

[Woodsplinter]

More pics!

 

[DHennon]

I like it! Great engineering ingenuity!

I see you used the yoke on the radiator bracket. I had to make a new bracket, there was not enough adjustment in my yoke to make up for the 3/8" thickness of the compressor plate.

 

[3dAngus]

Woodsplinter, did you take a picture of your compressor mounting bracket naked?
Wondering how you mounted it.

 

[Woodsplinter]

I really had to tighten the yoke down and it was a tight fit, but it works. Here are pics of the brackets for the compressor. They came as part of a kit from Boyce Equipment.

 

[m-35tom]

all of you will have issues with the alt pulley slipping. i know, i did also. the solution is to use gates green stripe belts # 9530HD. make sure it is the HD, they are green all over, not just the back side.
tom

 

[Lonesome715]

I sure am glad you posted this. I to plan to install AC in my deuce. I am really interested in your cab mods. What all are you doing to seal it up?

 

[Lonesome715]

I may be wrong, but I think you are going to have charging issues. I think you have to have more belt wrapped around the pulling of the generator.

 

[runk]

Alternative A/C Compressor Belt Routing

I thought the rule of thumb was 120 deg. of belt wrap, or 90 deg for very light loads. So the waterpump pulley is also short on wrap.

I've considered 3 alternate possible belt arrangements. Anyone know if the paired belts are for redundancy or necessary for the required power transmission ? I'm interested in comments.

Arrangement 1) Leave one belt as is (crank, water pump/fan, alternator). 2nd belt skips alternator and drives A/C. Leaves two belts on the more important waterpump, although the A/C belt doesn't really have enough wrap around the waterpump.

Arrangement 2) Leave both belts as is, and swap the alternator or waterpump pulley for one with 3 (or 4 ?) grooves. Drive the A/C off the extra groove(s). I think the waterpump would be a better choice, but an alternator pulley is probably easier to find. The crank would be the best, but I couldn't see that the routing would work. This is similar to how the MTVR kit was intended to be installed (added an idler pulley for the serpentine belt with grooves for the A/C belts), and how the
aftermarket A/C kits I have used worked (older Jeeps, British cars).

Arrangement 3) Swap everything over to a serpentine belt setup, probably with 2 backside idler pulleys. This would be a lot of work, I think.

 

[Lonesome715]

I have been looking at different belt arrangments as well. I am also looking at swapping over to a surpintine set up.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I believe M-35tom already encountered and solved that problem. Check post 27.

 

[Lonesome715]

I missed that post. What is special about the green belts?

 

[Woodsplinter]

Tom, thanks for the belt info. What is different about those belts? After seeing the belt arrangement I am also concerned about the lack of contact. Haven't gotten to use it yet so i'll just have to see what happens.

Lonesome, I have been sealing up all the holes in the cab by epoxying a small piece of thin aluminum over each hole and then coating that with rubberized undercoating. 3M and Rustoleum work much better than NAPA brand.

After sealing holes up the firewall and floor will be covered with a rubberized foam product I got from DB Engineering. The walls and ceiling will be covered by a vinyl covered foam from the same company.

I also replaced all the rubber weatherstripping around the doors, windows, etc.

 

[m-35tom]

i have not sealed my cab at all. with 22k btu evap it really does not need sealing. but i will sometime soon if i get caught up on other things. since i upgraded the belts i have not had to adjust them at all.
tom

 

[DHennon]

Woodsplinter,

Did the condenser come from Boyce? Do you have any info on it?

 

[Woodsplinter]

Yes it came from Boyce. It has no markings on it but is 22"x 14"x 1" thick.
If you need any technical details, call Brett at Boyce. There was no information sent out with it.
The connection to the receiver/ drier uses a #6 hose and #8 to the compressor.

Hope that helps!
Mark

 

[runk]

This is the condenser I've bought, pretty sure it will fit above my winch, but haven't tried to mount it yet. I do know I'm going to have to move the hood safety latch.
14 X 25 Superflow R-134a Condenser - Painted Black Aluminum

 

[Odyssey M]

Now that I have the front end of the engine accessible, it is time to mount the compressor. I removed the small, L-shaped bracket to mount the clevis for the radiator support and the lift ring form the front of the cylinder head. In the photo, you will see I numbered the bolt holes 1, 2, & 3. These are the holes used to mount the compressor bracket to the cylinder head.
I had the machine shop fabricate a 3/8” steel plate to mount to the front of the head. The plate rests on the lip of the block where the head and block meet. I had a notch cut in the upper left corner of the plate, looking at the front of the engine, to clear the thermostat housing. The right side of the plate is perpendicular to the right side of the cylinder head.
I laid a machinist square on the lip of the block and drew a vertical line on the head up through the center of each of the 3 bolt holes on the front of the head, 1, 2, & 3. I put the plate on the lip and transferred the vertical lines to the plate. Next I measured up from the lip of the block to the center of each hole, and transferred the measurements to the plate, marked the location of each of the 3 holes, and drilled them out with my drill press.
Using the plate, I clamped the plate to the back 2 mounting holes on the compressor, marked the location to drill the holes to mount the compressor to the plate. After drilling the holes, I bolted the compressor to the plate and bolted the plate to the head. Be sure to install the Radiator support bracket and lift ring to the head when you install the plate. (In the pictures, the radiator bracket is upside down). After the trial fit, I removed the plate and painted it. I used all grade 8 bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts.

Solid job! Did you make any additional 3/8" steel plates? I would be interested in buying one. I'm looking to do the same upgrade to my daily driver. The more time I save on the fabrication process, the better. It drives my wife crazy if I spend more time with the truck then with her. I tell her she is always welcome to bring me out a beer and shoot the breeze while I tinker on the truck...

 

[MidNightRider]

Solid job! Did you make any additional 3/8" steel plates? I would be interested in buying one. I'm looking to do the same upgrade to my daily driver. The more time I save on the fabrication process, the better. It drives my wife crazy if I spend more time with the truck then with her. I tell her she is always welcome to bring me out a beer and shoot the breeze while I tinker on the truck...

That is what the EX use to say , now the new wife, wants to know when are we going to get our M37 and start our project , she said she does not know much mechanicaly, but does know the differance between a screw driver and a cresent wrench,

anyway, i am following this thread close, as i too am pondering the thought of this task later down the road. Dhennon, you are doing a real bang up job on this!! outstanding workmanship