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Bringing the M1031 into 21st century...backup cam and cupholders

Skinny

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Portsmouth, NH
I was tired of holding my coffee cup on long excursions. Chugging it so I didn't have to hold onto it was very counterproductive and resulted in shakes worse than a 6.2 diesel. So ten bucks later from Autozone...a solution to all of my beverage holding needs. Spillmaster console twin by hopkins, found in the aisle with all the sh*t.

All it needed were two holes to be drilled in the bottom, a pair of M4x0.7mm bolts which threaded into the bracket which normally holds the NP208 shifter cover. If you have an NP208 tcase, this mod will require swapping to the NP205.

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The M1031 naturally has a large blind spot so rather than back out of a parking spot at the grocery store and run over some child due to his/her mother spending more time texting than holding onto her child's hand, I installed a backup cam. Plus I am going up Mt. Washington next month and would rather see what is behind me than learn there is a 4,000' drop the hard way.

I bought the equipment off amazon. Build quality is on par for cheapo import stuff but for the price, I could buy a crate of them.

Amazon.com: Night Vision Parking Car Rear View Wide Angle LED Reversing CMOS Camera: Car Electronics

$17 for the camera. I did add some RTV to the wire coming out of it just as precaution. Mounting bracket has a lot to be desired but can't complain for the price. If it fails, maybe I will step up to a better unit.

Amazon.com: 7 inch TFT Color LCD Car Rear View Camera Monitor Support Rotating The Screen and 2 AV Inputs: Electronics

$36 for the monitor. It has two AV inputs in case I want to add a front bumper or rock camera. Who knows...
It does have 4:3 and 16:9 ratios and can flop the image to accomodate mulitple mounting styles.

I added the rear camera right underneath the tailgate. I would have liked to see it up higher but no easy place to mount it and the wire wouldn't have been long enough. It does spot the pintle hook nicely :)

Rear camera was bolted up using some M4 bolts with a nut between the bracket and the body to space it out. I ran the wire down the driver side frame rail with the stock harness. Brought it up through the grommet for the speedo and PTO cables. The monitor I stuck to the ceiling using the supplied double sided tape. I ran the wire to the sun visor bracket and secured it down the A pillar using wire clamps. I tucked them into the weatherstrip so this is a no drill install.

Cheers!

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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Way too cheap NOT to do. Although I would mount the camera a bit higher on mine.

I'll be back after more credit card abuse :driver:. The camera is a MUST mod.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
Way too cheap NOT to do. Although I would mount the camera a bit higher on mine.

I'll be back after more credit card abuse :driver:. The camera is a MUST mod.
I think the angle of the camera pointing down would either give you a great shot of the bumper or a distant picture. The camera would need to have quite the lense on it to see everything that high. Plus the middle clearance light may interfere at night. Too many variables on this install. I would think a better quality camera would do well that far up, maybe something for an RV or trailer application.

Looks good. But one BIG problem......why aren't you over here doing this on my M1031? :mrgreen:

Nice job.
Bring that M1031 down into Maine, I will wire it up in no time now that I know how to do it. I will trade services for a puff Toyota BJ70 :)
 

dependable

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More information is good. Still think you should be able to use the mirrors only. And know when it is time to get out and take a look where you are backing. Guess I'm sounding like an old fart.
 
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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
I'm converting the center red clearance lights to high mounted :mrgreen: center brake lights. Bringing the 1031 into the 21st century, eh?

Right now, my focus is on air conditioning. Yeah, air conditioner. 28 volt, 3 HP electric motor driven compressor with aftermarket evaporator.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
More information is good. Still think you should be able to use the mirrors only. And know when it is time to get out and take a look where you are backing. Guess I'm sounding like an old fart.
Driving it with just the mirrors is no problem. It really comes down to parking lots and such. People just have no idea about large trucks and blind spots. They would drive underneath you to get by and then blame you. It is just great piece of mind when the gear shift goes into the R position.

I'm converting the center red clearance lights to high mounted :mrgreen: center brake lights. Bringing the 1031 into the 21st century, eh?

Right now, my focus is on air conditioning. Yeah, air conditioner. 28 volt, 3 HP electric motor driven compressor with aftermarket evaporator.
Dig it, post it up!!! A/C is on my list, far down, but on there. I am debating modifying brackets to get an engine driven compressor, run a DC motor to a compressor, or running a large enough inverter to power an off the shelf home unit. Really haven't looked into it far enough.
 

dependable

Well-known member
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Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
Driving it with just the mirrors is no problem. It really comes down to parking lots and such. People just have no idea about large trucks and blind spots. They would drive underneath you to get by and then blame you. It is just great piece of mind when the gear shift goes into the R position.

Fair enough, but a 1031 is not a large truck, but maybe a camera is a good idea. Don't forget to keep track of front fenders and bumper! (while in reverse).
 
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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Right now, I've got about $100 in the AC project. Using an inverter was my initial idea but the space issue killed it. You need a dual hose unit, none are small enough.

The electric motor is a gamble, I don't have a firm output graph and it is an orphan motor from surplus. Impressive 34 pound brushed PM so I can play with timing about 3 degrees. Plus it is a 24 volt so using #2 wire, the over-volt should put it in the 3 Hp range which is minimal for automotive AC. Rated speed is 3000 RPM, a Sanden SD5H14 would drag that down to 1800 RPM or less. So I'm shooting for a SD5H09 compressor for 3000 RPM, giving about 3500 W of cooling, about 12,000 BTU/hour.

The advantage of moving the compressor out of the engine compartment will help in efficiency as it will be cooler. Plus the unit will have full capacity at idle, at expense of buss voltage. And probably will need to overhaul the alternators more often.
 

Skinny

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Location
Portsmouth, NH
Interesting

I was thinking about adding a second set batteries in the secm box, maybe a pair of group 31 deep cycles with an isolation switch to the main batteries. Then add an inverter. Then use a 6k to 12k btu wall a/c

Of course you would need to duct everything into the cab along with the controls.

What about a hydraulic driven compressor? Visionarie sells them, can't find the price though. Keeps the load off the electrical system. The DC systems I just looked at showed 200 amps draw requiring 1 AWG cables...YIKES!!!
 
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WARWAG

Active member
A backup camera is a must for any vehicle with a big blind spot. Since I lifted my M1028 I have become more concerned with this. I found a $100 dollar back up kit at Autozone. It mounts to the rear license plate. Since my plate is on the driver side of the rear bumper I think i will come up with a mount above the hitch. Good idea and I like the cup holder Idea as well. This has been another issue I have. Great post.:beer:
 
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Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
Interesting

I was thinking about adding a second set batteries in the secm box, maybe a pair of group 31 deep cycles with an isolation switch to the main batteries. Then add an inverter. Then use a 6k to 12k btu wall a/c

Of course you would need to duct everything into the cab along with the controls.

What about a hydraulic driven compressor? Visionarie sells them, can't find the price though. Keeps the load off the electrical system. The DC systems I just looked at showed 200 amps draw requiring 1 AWG cables...YIKES!!!

Yes, air conditioning draws power. Automotive air conditioning is far greater than most window units and rivals smaller central units.

Hydraulic driven would work, only because the CUCV uses the power steering pump for brakes and steering, I'd rather not jeopardize that system. I thought of a shifting splitter off the PTO but that would mean AC only during moving since shifting the transfer case into neutral at stops would be troublesome.

Sure, you can keep the twin alternators and mount an engine driven compressor but that would put another belt on the front plus longer belt for #2 alternator.

The 100 amp charging system is far over sized to support communications gear. Why not use it?
 

leeh725

Member
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6
Location
Orange, Texas
That backup camera setup is nice. I think I will create a similar system on my 1031 with SECM box. However, I'll use the dashboard radio mount for the monitor location. It isn't like anything else is going there.

Thanks for posting that. That was a clean, neat installation. It was inexpensive, to boot.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
Maybe phase 2 will be a better backup cam with some added protection onto it. Right now my focus is installing my new injection pump along with some other fuel system goodies. Have to prioritize.

All of you should know, the front bumper is used for mowing down zombies, or as I like to call them...Yuppies from the Tri-State area:mrgreen:
 

mkcoen

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Spring Branch, TX
All of you should know, the front bumper is used for mowing down zombies, or as I like to call them...Yuppies from the Tri-State area:mrgreen:
Sometimes you get a really big one though that'd just get stuck in the brush guard. Like a Michael Moore or Rosie O'Donnel type and you have to back up quickly (hence the camera) and you don't want it damaged while you're getting away.
 
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