Mounting 11x20's

[LowTech]

After braking down 6 9.00x20's on stock rims, and 6 11x20's on stock 5 ton rims, I was feeling like I was Super Hero tire de-mounter, . . . then I tried to put one together
Now would be the perfect time to tell me how EASY it is, and that I'm not really a Super Hero if I can't get one back together.
I've searched here, through goggle, on Utube, TM's, and I'm not finding anything that says "this is how you put the ring back on". After multiple tries I'm sure that none of the ways I'm trying are right.

I'm mounting 11x20's on my stock rims (I mean TRYING to). I've put them up on another rim, tried starting the ring from the end, I've tried starting it in the middle, etc. Nothing is getting the ring to set down into the groove. Am I using the tools wrong? . . . the wrong tools? . . . am I just lame?
I've got two tire irons and a duckbill, small hand sledge if needed.

 

[NH Stumpy]

Well, I am new here, but have mounted split rim tires for when they were still widely used. I can remember starting at the split. Putting my foot on one side and start working the ring down over the rim edge into the groove with two bars. Small bites were best. After the ring was on I would take a small sledge and tap the ring all around to make sure it was seated in the groove.

Be careful!!!! Inflate these in a cage or wrap them in chain in a way that will arrest the ring should it fly off!!!

 

[rmgill]

It's fiddly. I broke down my trucks set of rims and just started one at a time. Take the time to clean the rims up and get any rust off them. Inspect them for any cracks too while you're at it. They should ring like a bell.

With the tire sitting down on the ground, make sure the rim itself is supported so you have the tire hanging off the rim. Some blocks of wood are good for this and make it easier. Then with the rim as high as it will go, stand on the tire and work it around so the bead is back from the ring's slot in the rim. Then work the rim end into the proper point and stand and work it around. Some good metal prybars are great for this so long as you don't jab your tire's tube with them. Once you get it started you can either walk it around or tap it in with a wood or rubber mallet. Be firm by gentle.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I usually install the tube with VERY low pressure, just enough to get it round in the tire.
Then I put the boot in.
Next I line up the valve stem in the rim cut-out.
Install the ring facing away from the valvestem by stepping on one side of the cut to mash it in the groove. Then follow that around the rim.
Run some chain through the rim, around the tire, on 2 sides. Keep the chain somewhat loose so the tire can expand.
Inflate tire to whatever pressure you want. I have found that the tire usually seats the bead at 20-30psi.

 

[NH Stumpy]

Oh boy, the memories come flooding back! I remember the stand we had now that would index in the rim to let the tire droop. We used to inflate the tube slightly as well. It would help hold the flap in place too. A good rim lube/ anti rust will make the job go easier as well.

 

[runk]

5 or 7.5 gallon buckets work well to support the rim high enough to let the tire "droop" a little and make it easier to push the bead down enough to get the ring started.
I also inflate the tube a little (as in ~1 PSI !) to make it easier to position in the tire, should still be a little "squishy".
I found getting the valve stem in the right place a challenge, the 11x20's (G177) were a lot heavier then the 9x20's, and it was easy to get the valve stem caught when I dropped the tire assembly on the rim.
I walked (as in walking / bouncing on it, the bucket was nice and stable) the tire down until the bead was far enough down to put the ring on.
Then walked the ring on.
Chained the wheel up in between some big aluminum I-beams (a little loose), and then set the bead. It worked best if the valve guts were out of the stem, higher volume flow seemed to set the bead at a lower pressure. Deflated the wheel (which supposedly gives the tube a chance to line up / de-wrinkle), installed the valve guts, and inflated to the high pressure limit, figuring I'd rather have a failure in the chains then on the truck. (note- use a clip on tire chuck and a remote air valve !)
If the "new" tires sat around un-inflated make sure they don't have any water between the tire and tube (probably not as big a problem for you as here in swampy Houston).

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

As stated start at one end then stomp it around, make sure you inflate it safely!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnyh78wjZ1o

 

[NH Stumpy]

Good video, and worth it just to see all the vintage trucks!

 

[MWMULES]

I do it this way except I have it up off the ground on a civi car rim and I start the ring from the end that does not have the notch for the spoon cutout. I use the chains like Gimpy also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwpYzg9nyV4

 

[REOGasser]

This is very AWESOME ! ! ! I just showed the wife and kids how dangerous these wheels and tires are ! ! great video thanks for posting !

REO

 

[gimpyrobb]

They are only dangerous if you don't pay attention to what you are doing, as with MOST things in life.

 

[Mack Attack]

This why I hate 2.5 ton trucks, 5 tons don't have these issues you simply toss the 20s in the trash and bolt up some 24.5s !

 

[goldneagle]

I had to scrap the rim from my Deuce's spare tire due to access rust at the split ring joint. The way the spare tire is stored it allows water to sit at the rim where the ring is. Water bad for rim! I did not want to take a chance that the ring would let go due to not seating properly.

 

[LowTech]

I do it this way except I have it up off the ground on a civi car rim and I start the ring from the end that does not have the notch for the spoon cutout. I use the chains like Gimpy also.

I watched that vid, seemed like that ring was more of an "O" than a "C", is that right, or just how it looked?
I also thought that I should be starting from the non-notched end of the ring.

5 or 7.5 gallon buckets work well to support the rim high enough to let the tire "droop" a little and make it easier to push the bead down enough to get the ring started. . .
. . . I walked (as in walking / bouncing on it, the bucket was nice and stable) the tire down until the bead was far enough down to put the ring on.
Then walked the ring on. . .
. . . It worked best if the valve guts were out of the stem, higher volume flow seemed to set the bead at a lower pressure. Deflated the wheel (which supposedly gives the tube a chance to line up / de-wrinkle), installed the valve guts, and inflated to the high pressure limit, figuring I'd rather have a failure in the chains then on the truck. (note- use a clip on tire chuck and a remote air valve !)
If the "new" tires sat around un-inflated make sure they don't have any water between the tire and tube (probably not as big a problem for you as here in swampy Houston).

Will try the bucket. I was trying to use another deuce rim to stack it on, too high, it won't let you walk on the tire w/o it falling off.

I did clean and straighten everything, wire brush, then nylon brush. Only using the best rims and rings. Deff know the chaining method and have used it before to inflate unknown flats. The 11x20's were holding air and had great looking flaps, I didn't brake them down farther than that. Just changing rims

Thanks for the inflation tips

I usually install the tube with VERY low pressure, just enough to get it round in the tire.
Then I put the boot in.
Next I line up the valve stem in the rim cut-out.
Install the ring facing away from the valvestem by stepping on one side of the cut to mash it in the groove. Then follow that around the rim. . .

Does that mean the the split in the ring is opposet the valvestem?

. . . With the tire sitting down on the ground, make sure the rim itself is supported so you have the tire hanging off the rim. Some blocks of wood are good for this and make it easier. Then with the rim as high as it will go, stand on the tire and work it around so the bead is back from the ring's slot in the rim. Then work the rim end into the proper point and stand and work it around.

I think that is key here, have the rim as high as it will go and STILL have the tire on the ground. And I did notice that the bead could get into the ring's slot if it wasn't centered.

 

[tie6044]

I mount a ton of tires on deuce rims, everything from 9.00's to 395's and 14.00's. A couple things I will add is to use baby powder inside the tire to keep the tube from sticking anywhere to the inside of the tire. Also, I use a cement block inside my 5 gallon bucket for strength, after pounding a few rings on with my weight and the tire/rim on it the bucket tends to start to buckle. I use a 4 foot length of well pipe with a cap on one end to pound the rings back on, provides a rounded end for pounding and a little more control versus a sledge hammer.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, the split is 180* from the V.S.

 

[tie6044]

Yup, the split is 180* from the V.S.

I've always known that but what is the reason for it?

 

[topo]

With 11.00 20 tires your ring should go back on with out any force stomping or taping hitting a split ring with a hammer will take the temper out of it . I try to block the rim high enough off the ground to let the tire come close to the ground the amount of air in the tube needs to not be to much you should be able to push the bead area down enough to start the ring .

 

[tie6044]

I would be very interested in seeing someone put a ring back on without any force!

 

[topo]

I should has said stomping and taping are fine .Hitting a split ring with a hammer will take the temper out of it .