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M101 A3 Build Utility, Camping, etc.

J

justinh

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I've wanted to go this route for a long time. I love the concept of an "offroad" trailer but also regularly need a utility trailer as even with 3 of us and a dog anything more than a 2-day trip backs the 4runner full. I didn't necessarily need one this big but this seems to be where the good deals are in terms of models.

I picked this one up at Barstow this week.

My immediate plans are to de-militarize a lot of the hardware. It is way overkill for my intended use and will be much more convenient to have some more conventional parts on it. I like the concept of the tilt bed so I want to keep tongue but have some non-permanent modifications in mind.

-Eliminate the pintle hitch/surge brake/jack assembly. I actually had this pulled within 20 minutes of getting home since it all bolts on but I am putting it back on temporarily to take to the fab shop tomorrow. The fab shop is going to make a similar mount upper plate/lower plate with the side plates which will be bolted to the tongue just like the current set-up. However, the new one will have a receiver tube coming out the front. This will allow me to use a convential ball hitch and also have an interchangeable receiver for an off-road hitch (one day). (This piece has already been sold)

-Eliminate the military wiring and NATO plug. (removed)

-Eliminate the portal axle assembly-Looking at a Dexter 6-lug axle (ordered)

-Swap the 37" goodyears and hummer beadlocks for a Toyota 6 lug wheel with 285/75/16 BFG all-terrains (new tires wheels mounted/balanced waiting on axle)

I'm going to have parts available if anyone is looking for anything (especially the stuff mentioned above). I do have a deadline to get this usable, we've got a cross country trip the middle of June to head back to Atlanta for a few months. I plan to tow it with me.

Here are some pics to show where I'm starting.

axle.jpg
tire 2.jpgtire.jpgphoto.jpghitch.jpghitch 2.jpg

I'm excited about this, I love projects and having a deadline should make this one move along quickly!
 
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J

justinh

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John Galt said:
I am not sure, but unless you can get a hub/brake system on your new axle that is set up for hand brakes your dumping feature may be lost. Someone is looking for the landing gear...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?106746-M101-series-crank-landing-gear

Looks like a good platform to build on. I am in the middle of a similar project with mine.
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I'll have to look more closely at that. I don't understand why the hand brake would have any bearing on the tilt function of the bed. In any case it isn't a feature I would use often, it's just nice sometimes being able to dump the mulch and crap out of the trailer quickly and easily.
 
J

John Galt

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It will still have the ability to tilt but you need to lock the hand brakes to get it to dump. I guess you could just chock the wheels. Again, no expert but from what I have read here, these trailers are not really meant for repeated dumping of heavy loads.
 
J

justinh

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John Galt said:
It will still have the ability to tilt but you need to lock the hand brakes to get it to dump. I guess you could just chock the wheels. Again, no expert but from what I have read here, these trailers are not really meant for repeated dumping of heavy loads.
Click to expand...
I would assume as long as it is hooked to a vehicle and not moving it should work fine, that's how every other tilt bed trailer I've ever worked with has been. The possibility exists to keep the hand brakes with an electric brake axle bit I wasn't really planning on it. Honestly, my biggest concern with the tilt feature is getting the bed back down into position. The pivot point is so far forward that it's going to be a lot of weight to get back down from way up there! That's pretty far away right now from my bigger concerns of getting this thing towable with my vehicle, etc. I will look at it closely though before I order an axle! Realistically I can't see myself wanting to "tilt" it more than once or twice per year, just a possibility I'd like to keep if possible.


thanks for looking out! i'll let you know what i find. Gotta get it off to the welding shop now to have my new hitch made up!
 
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gimpyrobb

gimpyrobb

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You could always use a hi-lift jack to make it dump. Just make sure you have limiting straps installed, so you don't break the pivot casting. That has happened to many people on here.
 
MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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justinh said:
I'll have to look more closely at that. I don't understand why the hand brake would have any bearing on the tilt function of the bed. In any case it isn't a feature I would use often, it's just nice sometimes being able to dump the mulch and crap out of the trailer quickly and easily.
Click to expand...
These trailers do NOT have a dump bed! This has been gone over many times here on SS, but here's the bottom line:

The pivot feature is there so that the tongue can be dropped down to facilitate storing or shipping a lot of trailers in a small space - they drop the tongues and nest them together in long rows.

It's NOT made for dumping.

Yes, you CAN get it to dump. Many people have. Many people have also broken their trailers doing this. The pivot point is NOT made for that kind of stress, and it's not at the correct angle.
 
MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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justinh said:
-Eliminate the 24v wiring-undecided what to do here yet.
Click to expand...

Good news!

There is no 24v wiring on these trailers. :)


It's just wire. It doesn't care whether you put 12 or 24 volts on it.

It's very easy to swap out the big fat military connector for a standard 7-pin RV connector, and you can just swap in standard automotive 12v bulbs on the rear. The sockets are the same.

Done.

Want to get fancy? Use LED bulbs.

Want to get fancier?

Swap the rear military lights for some civi LED jobs.


Any way you look at it, there's no need to rip out the existing wiring. You'll just have to replace it with wiring that's functionally the same.
 
J

justinh

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MarcusOReallyus said:
Good news!

There is no 24v wiring on these trailers. :)


It's just wire. It doesn't care whether you put 12 or 24 volts on it.

It's very easy to swap out the big fat military connector for a standard 7-pin RV connector, and you can just swap in standard automotive 12v bulbs on the rear. The sockets are the same.

Done.

Want to get fancy? Use LED bulbs.

Want to get fancier?

Swap the rear military lights for some civi LED jobs.


Any way you look at it, there's no need to rip out the existing wiring. You'll just have to replace it with wiring that's functionally the same.
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My ideal solution is to put some led lights in the rear cross member. I've considered modifying what is already there as I know it is a simply wiring task to change the bulbs and wire in the correct adapter to my vehicle but I've heard this whole wiring kit has value to some people and if what I have helps someone else restore what they have then great. If there isn't any significant value to it then I will modify what is there. Plus, with my plans to lower the trailer with smaller tires, etc. I'm not sure how visible the current lights will be underneath the trailer like they are currently mounted. Probably work fine for people in cars behind me but if a truck is behind me it seems like they are tucked away a little too much.
 
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John Galt

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I swapped the mil lights for new LEDs. Used the existing mounts and with 30" tires they are plenty visible and tucked out of the way.

i-ZrSdSkh-L.jpg

i-HkmkfHZ-M.jpg
 
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MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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John Galt said:
I swapped the mil lights for new LEDs. Used the existing mounts and with 30" tires they are plenty visible and tucked out of the way.
Click to expand...

Very nice. :beer:



And Justin, take note. I didn't have to clutter up the forum with a repeat of his entire post in order to reply to him.


Editing is appreciated. ;)
 
J

justinh

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Got the trailer back from the welder this afternoon with my new bolt-on hitch assembly with 2" receiver tube. Had to trim the ends of the frame due to the width of the receiver so it could have been welded on and it may eventually. For not it is bolted on using the existing bolt holes with upper and lower plates that sandwich the tongue and extend to the edge of the tongue rails.

I'm going to clean things up and paint it and put it all back together for now. Didn't work out exactly as I had hoped but it accomplishes exactly what I want and will sit perfect with my 4runner once I get the axle/tires/wheels swapped.
 
J

justinh

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John Galt said:
That is a fast welder. Post some pics if you get a chance. Also curious about the price of the welding work, if you are willing to share.
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It was actually done yesterday afternoon but I wasn't able to get back over there. He was fast and reasonable so I don't mind pulling the hitch to grind down the tongue where he had to cut it with a torch.

He charged me $100 to build the piece for the new tongue with a receiver tube in it. Then he charged me another $30 to weld the 2" hitch I bought at the trailer supply place to a piece of 2" square tubing to fit into the receiver he built me on the trailer.

I THOUGHT we'd be able to just trim the very ends of the trailer tongue rails and get it in there but I was wrong and he had to cut more off than I had hoped for. Knowing what I know now I would have just had him weld it on instead of taking the time to drill the holes and bolt the new assembly he built in. I may end up going that route in the future since I lost the BIG bolt at the front that held the original safety chains. When I do I'll probably plate the tongue rails on the sides of it all, for now I've got bigger things to get done (axle/tire/wheel swap). Then I can get it down to my friend's shop and he and I can do any other welding I want to do. I need to get as many parts off of it and sold as soon as possible as we are leaving in 5 weeks for a cross country trip and I can't store all of this stuff in California while I'm gone.

I
 
harleyhouse

harleyhouse

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Oakmont, Pennsylvania
Pictures please!

I went simple and used an adjustible channer.
welded it on the front of the tongue V and I use a croft lunette and 2" ball.

I replaced my safety chains with safety cables and like them much better.
 

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