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Manual Glow Plug Install

CCATLETT1984

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They are NOT the humvee plugs, hmmwv's run a straight 24volt system for everything. The CUCV only runs 24v for the starter, the glow plugs are run through a dropping resistor that is feed from the 24v buss bar. The dropping resistor lowers the voltage to ~14volts as soon as a load is placed on it. The reason that this is done is so you can jump the vehicle with two dead batteries using the NATO slave recepticle on the front of the truck. Otherwise you would have no 12volt source with both batteries dead.
 

hobie237

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I'm thinking about doing something similar. I don't really care, however, about returning to the stock configuration, the vehicle is a work vehicle and I really don't mind modifying it to better suit my needs.

That said, the main purpose of my doing this is to eliminate failure points (or rather potential failure points) and reduce repair needs and costs down the road. As I read it, the circuit goes battery -> relay ->switch -> plugs with this done. My question is whether one can eliminate the relay for further simplification of the circuit. I understand that this would mean that the plug switch would be "hot" all the time and therefore could be accidentally engaged while the engine is running or whatever, my question is whether this would be worth it.
 

CCATLETT1984

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NO, DO NOT ELEMINATE THE RELAY.

A lot of current flows through the glow plugs when they are on, you dont want to have that flowing inside your cab. The relay makes it so you dont need to have a 50amp rated switch with heavy guage wiring under your dash.
 

hobie237

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At this point I'm half tempted to run the heavy gauge wire, since much of my engine bay must be rewired tomorrow due to an engine fire.

But I'll plan on keeping the relay, thanks.
 

Braunchitis

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I've noticed a few people on this site saying the Wellmans won't swell.

When I replaced mine, I had two swollen ones - one came right out but I noticed the tip was bulging a bit, the other, was a pain. Lots of yanking with Vice Grips and cussing was involved. They were, in fact, Wellman 070's.
 

dependable

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I,ve changed most of my 6.2 fleet (7 trucks) to manual control as the factory systems have failed. I jump ground to glow plug control solenoid as described by others. Be sure to use 12 or 13 volt glow plugs on this conversion. The civilian 6.2 used a 6v fast glow plug ( ie AC G-9). This plug will fry and break off when glow plug control is bypassed because it s now getting 12 V.
CUCVs use a different glow control that runs on 12V, but also fails. I use AC G-12 plugs, which are stock for CUCV and actually 13 Volt plugs. If you cant get AC-12 s, you can use AC-11s which was the 12 V glow plug for the ill fated Chevy 5.7. When applying glow plugs manually, I count twelve seconds before starting. Hope this helps.
 

Michael

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dependable said:
I,ve changed most of my 6.2 fleet (7 trucks) to manual control as the factory systems have failed. I jump ground to glow plug control solenoid as described by others. Be sure to use 12 or 13 volt glow plugs on this conversion. The civilian 6.2 used a 6v fast glow plug ( ie AC G-9). This plug will fry and break off when glow plug control is bypassed because it s now getting 12 V.
CUCVs use a different glow control that runs on 12V, but also fails. I use AC G-12 plugs, which are stock for CUCV and actually 13 Volt plugs. If you cant get AC-12 s, you can use AC-11s which was the 12 V glow plug for the ill fated Chevy 5.7. When applying glow plugs manually, I count twelve seconds before starting. Hope this helps.
All of these plugs are obsolete. You can go to GM parts direct and plug in any civi 6.2 or 6.5 you can think of and it will recommend AC 60G glow plugs. You have to file the tab off a little for a CUCV but they have worked well for me.
 

Wolf.Dose

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Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
The standard CUCV plugs (which say 2.8 Volts on their stamping); are 6 second glow plugs. I set a timer to 5 seconds after I had them blown twice with a ten second setting and had to take out the engine to replace the plugs (Not a nice job in winter in a non heated environement.). The "wait to glow" now is of after the mentioned 5 seconds and then I immediately crank the engine. This works since 3 years. The big registor pulls down the 24 Volts to the said 2.8 Volts under load. The electronics, if they still work, add other paralel registors to limit the current according to the manual TM 9-2320-289-20.
If the electronics propperly work, the maximum time before cranking the engine should not be more than 2 minutes according to the said manual.
 

CCATLETT1984

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What brand and part# plugs are you using? The wellmans shouldnt swell that bad, I have seen the AC13's swell up really bad.

The resistor only drops the voltage to 12v, not 2.8v.
The glow plug IS a resistor, thats how they get hot, by creating a restriction in the path to ground for the current they heat up.

The stock controller cycles the plugs for more than 5seconds and until it goes bad doesnt have issues burning up plugs.
 

dependable

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I have not had this problem. My CUCVs were all out working before I got them. Two are 12V and one is 24V start but messed with. None use the 24V to !2V resistor. All have 12 V coming from glow soleiniod. This is also true of my K-30s which were 6v glow. The AC -12 Gs have worked for me. Perhaps I don't go 12 seconds, but just count to 12. In cold weather crank wait & repeat. When my shelf stock of 12 G s run out I will try the AC 60 Gs. I am here to learn and help when I can. I will add that if you need to jump NATO tanks in your fleet, keep you electronics original. But otherwise realize that much of the military electronics on the CUCV were cobbed on a Chevy truck to fullfill a contract.

After posting this I looked at my trucks.. I tested the output of the resistor, which is bypassed on my work trucks, and got 24V. I confess I don't know why the resistor is there and what its output voltage is supposed to be. On one of my older 1008s, the paint was burned off the firewall around it. You can keep 24V start and bypass resistor by powering glow control solenoid off the junction next to it. This is powered off the front battery and runs the normal 12V stuff on the truck. ( on some trucks the wire actually comes off the negative side of the back battery ). There are several reasons not to keep 24V start and also to go to the gear reduction starter, but that is another topic
 

Michael

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You will get 24 volts with no load on the resistor. Voltage dropping resistors must be matched to the load based on ohms law.
 

Floridianson

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Interlachen Fl.
dependable said:
After posting this I looked at my trucks.. I tested the output of the resistor, which is bypassed on my work trucks, and got 24V. I confess I don't know why the resistor is there and what its output voltage is supposed to be.
Found this sight and he talks about the resistor volts and that seems to go with what you found. I don't know just thought I would through it out there.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Military-Vehicle-Repair-823/M-1009-Chev-Military-1.htm
Scroll whole page.
 

matiasmaggiolo

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Bs.As ARGENTINA
hi this is Matias from argentina, i have a 86 M1009, and the machine always had good start but since 1 week it not start any more, i had see that all the Glow PLug are BAD, and here the unique glow plug i can buy is BERU 0100271101. this glow up it take 8 sec.
Do you think that it will work.
 

cegeb

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Wisconsin
Glow Plug Controller card

Does anyone have a picture of the circuit card itself? I have a decent card but I need to see the markings on two of the resistors and the one other part. If I get that I think I can fix the card.
 

SSGT Mahan

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Shasta Lake, CA
I have read several posts on this thread about manual momentary switches...I am trying to figure out how to do this to my vehicle.
It is an 84 Chevy custom deluxe with the 6.2 ...but my configuration of glow plug relays seems much different.
The solenoid is on the drivers fender. There in not a box under the steering column..
What I have is as follows...solenoid...battery cable attached to solenoid toward front of engine...two into one orange/ red wires attached to solenoid towards rear of engine...terminal attached to center of solenoid with light blue wire and pink/red wire.
The pink and blue wire connect to harness with black plastic connector where they become light green and cream with a black stripe.
Anybody have any Ideas what I can do???
The glow plugs do not work at all.
Solenoid is new...as are the glow plugs and the controller seems good. All wiring is intact and serviceable.
???????
 
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