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Intake manifold removal, advice/help needed

alburms311

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So I decided to fix my rocker arm/valve cover leaks and Im stuck on the manifold, literally. This guy wont budge. I have removed all the bolts and what not as described in TM9-2320-289-34/3-4. Any advice on how to get this guy off?
 

alburms311

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I got the manifold off and found an aftermarket part....look closely, that's a paper clip. So which manual has a picture of how this is supposed to be connected and what I'm missing?
 

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K9Vic

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Well in that same manual there should be a diagram of the correct clip that is needed. You should be able to get the clip from any Stanadyne dealer if you cannot from a local parts store. However it is likely a common clip that the parts store should be able to get.

As for what has been said, a rubber mallet has worked for me in the past. You should also clean the area well before you remove the cover, vacuum the area out. This will help prevent any contaminates getting inside the chamber. It is also a good idea to tape the holes so nothing falls in while working on it.
 

85CUCVtom

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No I didn't use any RTV. Just the paper gaskets. As said before just make sure you clean the area well and vacuum up the mess in the engine valley after and make sure you don't get anything into the ports on the head.
 

alburms311

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I got the intake manifold off the other day, found a replacement clip and installed it in place of my paperclip, and today finally got all the injector lines off...what a pain. I also got the drivers side valve cover off and cleaned all the RTV off. I have covered everything up for the night, back to it tomorrow afternoon. My question now is should I use RTV or the cork gaskets I've already purchased for the covers? Anyone have any pros/cons, what did you use? This is about as deep as I've gotten into a vehicle, I just want to do it right, and myself(and the TMs) if at all possible. Also, any other issues you guys have run into that may help me out during this project I would appreciate the input.
 

alburms311

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I got everything put back together, bled the fuel system, yet I can't get it started. I did hear a tick, tick, tick aprx 3 seconds apart between starting attempts, now nothing but a machine gun sounding fast clicking, I assume I have now run down the batteries. My meter reads a bit over 12V on both batteries. I have the front one charging now. Any suggestions?
 

Warthog

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You have a dead battery. Just because it show 12v doesn't mean it's good. They need to be charged and load tested. You may have a dead cell in one of them.
 

alburms311

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Thanks Warthog, that's what I figured but wanted to throw my problem out there. I'm no expert by any means. Any thoughts on what the ticking was? You think I may just still have air in the system causing me not to fire?
 

alburms311

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I got the ol girl fired up this morning after charging the front battery overnight. Apparently I didn't tighten the very bottom injector hose enough, so I'm leaking....I'm going back out shortly to see if I can get to it without having to take the manifold back off.
 

K9Vic

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I got the ol girl fired up this morning after charging the front battery overnight. Apparently I didn't tighten the very bottom injector hose enough, so I'm leaking....I'm going back out shortly to see if I can get to it without having to take the manifold back off.
Crows foot is needed to do it and it can possibly be done with the manifold in place using a long extension.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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alburms311

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Thanks for the deadblow 101 link, now I'm up to speed on striking tools, and now know I do not own a deadblow hammer. :beer: I ended up taking the manifold back off and tightening the loose line,(I tried every angle with the 17mm crowfoot but it wasnt happening) and all seems well now. I did find that I failed to tighten one of the fuel hose clamps coming off the filter, so there was a leak there as well but that was an easy fix. I just drove around the block, so I will drive more tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks to all that provided input on this project. This was a pain to do, but I'm glad I did it rather than having someone else do it.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Use a dead blow just once and you'll appreciate just how very different it is from either a regular hammer OR a rubber mallet. Each has it's place. :)

Glad you got the beast wrestled to the ground! :beer:
 

alburms311

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Hayden, AL
I thought I was done with this project, apparently not. I don't have any more leaks though. I drove around some more and noticed I have a "clacking" sound(best i can tell its coming from passenger side of engine area) that seems to diminish the more I accelerate, and I also noticed I'm blowing white smoke(not much) from the passenger side muffler when beginning to accelerate, but I stopped and put in reverse to turn around and notice a decent amount of smoke from the left side, then it went away upon driving down the road. Ill be searching the threads, any thoughts?
 
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Big69C20 Toy

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White smoke= engine coolant. Clacking i'm not so sure of but i wager with your 2nd intake removal you damaged some of the intake seal areas and now have water getting into your combustion chambers.

Clacking might be something with the rockers but i'm not sure. Pull that intake and redo the gasket/rtv for the white smoke.
 

alburms311

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Hayden, AL
Here's an update I failed to post. I talked to a buddy of mine and he suggested I recheck my injectors and lines. He said his truck done the clacking thing after changing the lines. The sound was coming from the rear passenger side so I started there. Found that back injector line was cross threaded on. Put it back on, bled the system, took it for a ride, a big puff of white smoke came out and all is good now it seems after several drives since. In the process I changed out my top vacuum hoses and after some adjustments my very early soft shift issue is resolved as well, drives much better. Today's project, instal a temp gauge. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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