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CUCV-II/CUCV2 won't start

Warthog

Warthog

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Today testing:

The security light was not on but I did the 30 minute relearn procedure anyway. No start.

Checked fuel pump. While I didn't check the pressure, the quanity was good. Also drained about 1 tablespoon of water from the filter.

Checked the voltage to the fuel shutoff. 12v at the solenoid with the key on. Clicks. I also tried hot wiring it directly to the battery. No start.

Removed the check valve on top of the IP. No flakes and was clean. However I did drop it under the intake. :shock: Now I have to find my magnet to fish it out. On the 6.2L NA you can fit your arm under the intake. The 6.5L TD you can't.

And I chewed up the negative lead on my multimeter. Radiator fans tend to do that. :-(

Off to read some more.
 
Warthog

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I couldn't fish the IP check valve out from under the intake. I ended up pulling the intake. While it is out I will replace the oil pressure unit, fuel lines and remove the PMD off the side of the IP. I will also clean all the ground wires while I am at it.

The valley of the block is wet with fuel and oil. Not real bad but will need to be cleaned. Makes me wonder about the IP. I can't tell if the IP{ is leaking because when I pulled the check valve the fuel ran out onto the IP.

The Iowa Air National Guard has had the intake out before. Things where not put back where they belong and they left a couple of single edge razor blades for me. Glad I didn't stick my hand under the intake :shock:
 
Stonepicker1

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Check the three nuts that hold the injection pump. Make sure they are tight. If one is loose that could be your oil leak. As for the fuel, I think it is from the check valve. Good call on replacing the oil pressure unit now that the intake is off.
 
Warthog

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Between hanging Christmas lights and spending anniversary time with the wife, I didn't have too much time to work on the truck.

Phil you where spot on with the oil leak. Bottom two nuts where loose. Top one was tight.

Got the oil pressure switch installed. Started replacing the fuel lines. I need to clean the valley tomorrow. I also started removing the PMD. Top two bolts are easy. The bottom two require a "modified" tool. I ran out of daylight and didn't get them removed. I'll finish them tomorrow and take some pics of the tool.

Now off to dinner with the wife.
 
Warthog

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Only having a couple hours of daylight to work on the truck really sucks.

Finished removing the old PMD, replaced all the fuel lines and cleaned the engine grounds. A couple of cans of Berryman's Carb Cleaner took care of the mess in the engine valley.

While I was at it I checked the date code on the engine block.
A 506 with date code D170 which is April 17, 2000. That make sense as the truck was built in June of 2000

Today I will reinstall the intake, bleed the fuel filter and attempt a restart. If it doesn't work then it will be a couple of weeks before I can get back to it. Snow storms coming, a trip to Seattle and then Christmas time. Where does the time go?

Phil has a good idea about removing the engine to work on it. Messing with all the wiring, standing on your head to get to anything and laying on top of the engine while you feet dangle in the wind, it is a bear working on these trucks.

Pictures are of the wiring mess, the PMD and the modified tool. I hot glued the torx bit to the box end wrench so I wouldn't loose it.
 

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Warthog

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Spent the afternoon reinstalling the intake, cleaning all the grounds and putting everything back together. Also bleed the fuel system.

I decided to try the old PMD first. Turned the key, waited for the glowplugs and she fired up on the first crank. No stumble or hesitation.

After a few minutes of running I decided to try the "new" fleabay unit. Nothing. Nada. Hooked upped the old one and fired on the first crank. Looks like my bargain PDM wasn't such a bargain after all.

I also checked the resistor for the PMD. It is a #3. I'll install my #9 tomorrow.
 
doghead

doghead

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So, what was the issue?
 
doghead

doghead

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What are you referring to with numbers, for resistors?

I know nothing about PMDs.
 
Warthog

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Looks like grounding issues.

With the DB4 injector pumps, you set the fuel rate with a small resistor. They are numbered 1 thru 9. Most of the vehicles came with a #4 or #5. The #9 resistor delivers the most fuel so the most power.

On the DB2 pumps you turn up the fuel with the screw. DB4 are turned up with the resistor


PMD.JPG
 
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Recovry4x4

Recovry4x4

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PMDs are very finicky and usually the source for hot start and no start issues. I always carried a spare when I had my K3500. Anytime I had issues I would swap out the PMD before any troubleshooting. It was the problem 99% of the time. Sadly they are not $40 items.
 
Warthog

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antennaclimber said:
Do we need to start making our own PMDs now?

Karl
Click to expand...
Wouldnt be a bad idea. Stanadyne updated theirs and there are a few companies building them. Heath and DTech are a couple. Cost for a new one is running from $250-$350.

the biggest help is removing it from the pump and mounting it to a finned heat sink. Usually mounted behind the bumper.

I can send you the bad one to play with.
 
jw4x4

jw4x4

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I can vouch for the fact that Karl makes a super nice Glow plug card. It is a work of art. I already told him I wish I could mount it somewhere behind plexiglass so it could be seen. It would enhance my affliction for LED's.
 
Recovry4x4

Recovry4x4

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Yeah, I need to up my inventory of cards, my last spare was pressed into service. JW, maybe a piece of fiber optic so that you can run the emitted light up to the dash. LOL
 
antennaclimber

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Warthog said:
Wouldnt be a bad idea. Stanadyne updated theirs and there are a few companies building them. Heath and DTech are a couple. Cost for a new one is running from $250-$350.

the biggest help is removing it from the pump and mounting it to a finned heat sink. Usually mounted behind the bumper.

I can send you the bad one to play with.
Click to expand...
Then I would have to get a CUCV-II to test the new PMD's. Hmmm....
That would be a business expense. Might have to look into that.
 
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