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Noob question, part ID

paramilusmc

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OK arrow points toward the part in question. Essentually my issue is the glow plugs won't engage unless I place a knife blade or other metal across two of the points on this part and complete the connection myself. So I am pretty sure it is bad. All I need now is it's proper name to order the new part. TM is making my brain hurt this morning and I can't find it.
 

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Warthog

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That is the glow plug relay. Are you jumping between the two small terminals?

Read the stickies on the GP operation. More than likely it is your GP controller card that is not working. It may be a simple as a bad fuse.

When ever I want to find out what a part is, I open the parts manual, find the picture, locate the part number and then search for it.
 
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doghead

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If you had looked at the parts TMs only 2 of them(they end in -p), they have wonderful exploded views of all the parts of the trucks.

When you identify the part in questions, you look on the next page and there it will be identified by name and part number.

The item in your picture is the glow plug relay.

It is absolutely critical to use a compatible replacement part. Replacement part numbers are listed in the cucv sticky or wiki.

ST85 and GPR109 come to mind.
 

doghead

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Complete diognostics of the GP system is covered in the -20TM.

Testing requires a meter(no knife blades).

Shorting the 2 small terminals together should not make it work.
 

paramilusmc

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OK when i look up the glow plug relay in the TM (-20P) it shows the part above the tip of the arrow attached to the firwall. That's not the part I am looking for. The part I am looking for is the shiny metal cylindrical one that appears to be coming off the hydraulic brake fluid reservoir.
 
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doghead

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You must have darn good ears to hear the gps turning on.

If your referring to a click/thunk sound, then you are hearing the GP relay(not the glow plugs).

You need to word your questions and facts very carefully(correctly) to get correct info.

The shiny metal cylinder is indeed the GP relay(and is not coming off the power steering pump/reservoir). That is mounted down in the front drivers side of the motor and has a cap on it that you fill with oil.

What exactly are you shorting with a knife, to make the relay click?
 
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paramilusmc

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Then according to your assessment I am shorting the GP relay. But as I stated, go into the TM, figure 40 is the GP relay and that is not the cylinder in question, in matter of fact that's not a cylinder at all. As you look at the picture of that cylinder the two points facing you are the ones I am shorting that get the GP to engage and do their job. Yes I am referring to the click/thunk sound.
 
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Warthog

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That is the old style relay in the manuals. Things do get updated.

Here is the NAPA ST85 version

GP relay.jpg
 
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doghead

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OK, Warthog, why would the GP relay activate when the two small terminals are shorted?

One should have 12v+ and the other gets grounded to activate the relay.
 

Warthog

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Got me. Stumped on that one. Wrong relay?

OP, is there a part number of the silver cylinder relay?

How long have you had the truck and when did the GP issue start?
 
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paramilusmc

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I have had it since 2009, started about a year ago, but I didn't drive it in the past year. Got a different assignment that didn't allow it. So now that i am back in pocket its time to fix her.

Na that's the relay we are talking about. NAPA has it as a GPR100, not 109. They told me the 109 was for a ford.

I will have to get back to you on the part number if it is indeed on the relay.

Well at least now I dont feel so stupid after looking at the TM. Glad its a new replacement part, because i could not find it.
 
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doghead

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To be 100 % clear, you make connection between the 2 small terminals(with the key on) to make it "click"?
 

doghead

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In a normal truck/situation, you can short the small terminal with the blue wire to ground, to manually actuate the GP relay.

By connecting both of the small terminals to each other, nothing should happens as all you did was connect each end of the internal coil(inside the relay).

The only time there should be 12v+ on the small terminals is with the key on, and the controller not calling for GP on.(this is explained in the -20 troubleshooting section).

So, if you told me you were grounding the small terminal with the blue wire to ground, to activate the GP relay, that would make sense.

What you have said, does not make sense. It actually defies electrical laws.
 

Warthog

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In a stock system, by jumping the two small terminals with the key on and GP controller engaged, it would be a direct short and blow a fuse. That is why I am scratching my head on this one.

** revised my comment **
 
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doghead

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Not if the contoller is not functioning(quite possibly).

But, it still would not make the relay function.
 

Recovry4x4

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Hold on just a minute. My 86 came factory with the 2 large terminals were facing out and the small ones were 180 apart. OP, can you please take a close up pic of your trucks solenoid?
 
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