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M1009 engine swap

irishvin

New member
183
0
0
Location
Wappingers Falls, NY
about a month ago my engines crank shaft broke in half as i was heading to work. so here is sum pics tell me what you think?
431817_10200593511212743_1467447065_n.jpg547198_10200593692457274_2048272177_n.jpg374310_10200593863301545_1342578592_n.jpg182851_10200593881502000_197076322_n.jpg935362_10200605660356464_271915227_n.jpg942800_10200594770884234_1502794021_n (1).jpg181291_10200593286607128_1574318107_n.jpg264570_10200606569139183_1651911842_n.jpg

took 3 days but i got it ! 1st even engine swap !
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Like the wheels & tires, I have Pro Comp D-Ring wheels on my M1009. Looks like you also have 8-lug wheels, so pickup CUCV axle swap?

Do not like the orange valve covers & pulleys, they should be black for be OEM.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
about a month ago my engines crank shaft broke in half as i was heading to work. so here is sum pics tell me what you think?

took 3 days but i got it ! 1st even engine swap !
8, the sum of your pics is 8. I think you have many belts as well. Have you started it yet?
 

wayne pick

New member
658
2
0
Location
Valley Cottage NY
If that engine was originally painted that color and re painted by the PO, it very well may be an 82 "red block" and an exellent score. The 82 red blocks had a higher nickle content in the casting formula and were less likely to crack. Broken cranks are usually caused by a bad harmonic balancer, or web cracking on the 6.2.
 

dirtdiver

New member
35
0
0
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Need advice on installation in 1009

Hey guys,
I don't post much, as you can tell. I mainly research and read thru the site. There is lots of information, but I haven't found much until I found this thru the search. Here is my problem: I have removed and swapped a 6.2 into my 1009 and have it lined up with the bell housing and almost lined up with the motor mounts. It's tantalizingly close. So, does anyone have any tips on how to get it forced in those last 2-3 inches? I have a 1 ton engine lift, with the arm extended at max length, but if I lift any weight off of where it is now to attempt moving the motor back more, it will undo what I've accomplished...it simply can't provide anymore backwards pull to force it into the alignment holes.. This has happened several times in the past, so I'm at a sticking point. I'm basically on my own, have a small two car garage,with the occasional opportunity for friends to help if needed. Any tips?
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,458
6,532
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Hey guys,
I don't post much, as you can tell. I mainly research and read thru the site. There is lots of information, but I haven't found much until I found this thru the search. Here is my problem: I have removed and swapped a 6.2 into my 1009 and have it lined up with the bell housing and almost lined up with the motor mounts. It's tantalizingly close. So, does anyone have any tips on how to get it forced in those last 2-3 inches? I have a 1 ton engine lift, with the arm extended at max length, but if I lift any weight off of where it is now to attempt moving the motor back more, it will undo what I've accomplished...it simply can't provide anymore backwards pull to force it into the alignment holes.. This has happened several times in the past, so I'm at a sticking point. I'm basically on my own, have a small two car garage,with the occasional opportunity for friends to help if needed. Any tips?
3 inches? You are not close yet. Make sure the transmission is canted up a little. If you have issues pulling the bellhousing over the locating pins (last 1/2 inch), you can use the bolts to pull it together. But this should go together really smooth without "forcing" anything.
 

dirtdiver

New member
35
0
0
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Ok. Thanks for the quick response, although telling me that 3" isn't even close just burst my bubble...hahaha. I do have the tranny canted up a bit by a jack and wood block. The motor is resting on the mounts and the pins are lined up with the holes on the bell housing. I hadn't thought that the bolts would be able to pull a 750# motor into place.(?) either way it's not close enough yet to thread them. Just didn't seem feasible. Maybe a couple of guys with steel pipe pry bars pushing from the front? I don't know. I'm afraid that I may break something, as impossible as that sounds. I'm known for that..haha. Anyway, appreciate the input.
 

irishvin

New member
183
0
0
Location
Wappingers Falls, NY
When I dropped it in jgst me and anither guy prying on the motor side so sude as I pushed the engine in more. no it wasnt 3 inches thats way over extracted just excited as all **** I got it running. It fell inyo place after some prying pushing and tiwsting and jacking up the trans up. I jacked it higher than were it sits so when the engine dose fall in it kinda silds under the bell housing I hope this is helpful. Good luck dirtdiver
 

dirtdiver

New member
35
0
0
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Irishvin, thanks for the input. I found your post after a long search and it was very helpful. There is a lot of info on this site about many things, but not much about the specifics of slamming a motor into place. After what you said, I have a much better idea of how to jam this monster in. I appreciate your help, as well as that of others. Thanks for the good luck wish; I may need it. I will try to post my results later...thanks, gentlemen.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Nice work. Now for the reason the crank broke..did you ever swap out the harmonic damper? These are a critical component for engine longevity. As this component ages, the rubber hardens, losing the damping effect. Then it becomes a flywheel, doing the opposite effect of damping out crankshaft torsional vibrations by increasing front crank wind-up. This fatigues the crank in torsion, causing it to break.
 

irishvin

New member
183
0
0
Location
Wappingers Falls, NY
The reason for the crank breaking the guy before me that had itbhad the engine "rebuilt". The crank shaft was way over tightened cuaseing the top of the bpt to snap off and let the crank free. Althats what I found but yes I completely agree with you about the harmonic balancer. I would replace it before the engine goes in
 
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