Plode's M923A2

[plode]

Guess the post I made last night got deleted? Was trying to determine if something on eBay was the correct part for my truck.
Oh well.

I think my next step is to unbolt the seat, pull that out, and start working on the lower half of the cab- paint wise.
$64,000 question is: Does the rubber mat on the floor go under the passenger seat?

Pretty much want to know if I have to pull the passenger seat out to get that mat out so I can work/repair rust/paint. And power wash the mat.
I'm hoping it doesn't.

 

[plode]

I've also been trying to figure this out...what are the mounts on the top of the hood for? They have the Jeep type hood latches on them.

 

[Piper Cub]

I've also been trying to figure this out...what are the mounts on the top of the hood for? They have the Jeep type hood latches on them.

If you're talking about the two t-handle type brackets, they're for securing the windshield when folded down.

 

[plode]

If you're talking about the two t-handle type brackets, they're for securing the windshield when folded down.

Yes, them. Something I'll never do. Thank you.

 

[Piper Cub]

Yes, them. Something I'll never do. Thank you.

No problem. I've been following your thread and don't know how I missed the post yesterday, but the floor mat does not go under the passenger seat.

 

[plode]

No problem. I've been following your thread and don't know how I missed the post yesterday, but the floor mat does not go under the passenger seat.

Another relief. It does appear to go under my drivers seat, but that's easy to take that out. I have some seats from a car that were replaced with racing seats..I may try to see if I can build something to mount it to the spring base. It won't really match the military truck theme(black suede with red stitching), but it'll certainly be more comfortable. I'm going to work on getting the mat out tomorrow to see what I'm working with underneath.

 

[plode]

Got the mat out. Scraped up a good bit of the loose stuff(dirt and rust..and 5.56 shell casings), and ran the shop vac to clean up. I literally could have used a shovel there was so much junk under that mat. It will NOT be going back in...all it does is keeps the floor good and moist- prime conditions for rust and mold.

Some bad news..and welding in plates in my future. I have to figure out how I'm going to repair these areas. I guess I could just grind away the rust and weld a thin plate over it? And in the corners(near where the vents are) I think I could weld in some angle iron and a plate to fix that. I'm not the greatest welder, and only have a flux core welder...but nothing a grinder can't fix.

 

[Jeep Nasty]

Mine had those nice orange color drain holes too.

 

[plode]

Now I'm thinking I should just remove the battery box too, and do the rust repairs in the entire cab all in one shot. It'll allow me to clean behind it- the soldiers left a mess of trash and shell casings(on links from a machine gun- so a M249).

Is it just held in by the bolts that hold the batteries down? I don't see any other hardware on it. I'll probably have to wait till my dad is home to help me lift it out of the cab. Judging by how heavy the lid is, the entire thing is going to be too much for one person.

So much for keeping my freshly painted doors scratch free. It's a good thing touch ups are so easy. Brush on some paint to the scratch, and it's good as new.

 

[plode]

Ok so I got this replacement LQ-2 valve. I went to go put it in, until I realized the part on my truck isn't a LQ-2 valve as it's supposed to be. And the plumbing in the P2P software for the LQ-2 valve has a bunch of different hardware(tee's and an extra line) that I don't have, and isn't on the current valve in the truck. The one in the truck is a round cylindrical looking valve. I'll post pictures soon, but now I'm really confused as to what to do.

 

[plode]

From what I've found in the TM's and the P2P software..it appears whoever did the retrofit for the ABS on my truck was too lazy to install the LQ-2 valve and just left the old style valve in place.
Now I have to figure out where to source a tee, some elbows and a small airline. I really have no idea where to get the airline.

Will post pictures of it in a few minutes.

 

[plode]

Here is what is on my truck now:


Here is the LQ-2 valve I got:


Now I'm trying to figure out what the military did when they hooked this valve up(during the retrofit). For some reason, they used a tee and ran a 1/4" airline from the supply side to the control port. As you can see, my truck has 4 air lines going to the current valve. One would be supply, two to the brakes, and one I'm assuming is from the treadle valve(as the control).
Why in the retrofit did the military connect direct from the supply to the control port? That would make the valve stay open all the time, wouldn't it?

 

[plode]

Now that I'm looking at it, this LQ-2 valve I got doesn't have the bottom port threaded. Top port is supply, front port is control, and the two side ports are service. It looks like the exhaust port isn't threaded.

It appears there are 7 different models of the LQ-2 valve, 3 of which have 3/8" service connections. So I'm guessing at least one of those three does not have a threaded exhaust port...and I have that one in my hand.

 

[plode]

Anyone? How would you guys proceed with doing the LQ-2 retrofit? I also reviewed the ABS TM's here on the site and it appears a lot of the necessary hose connections/changes at the primary/secondary tanks weren't done as well.
The more I look into this, the more I'm getting confused and lost with all of these air lines.

 

[plode]

Got the passenger seat, batteries, and battery box out today to inspect/repair/paint the floor under it.
Not too bad rust wise. Scraped it, and vacuumed it out.


I measured and went up to the metal place. I got 1/8" steel(easier to weld) plates. Got a few to cover up where the metal was even the slightest bit of questionable.

I'll get them cut, bent, and drilled to fit another day. Once that's done, I'll trace them with a marker so I can grind away the paint/rust so I can weld them in. Then it'll be a good primer, and I'm thinking an epoxy paint with grit in it for traction. I'll have to see what Home Depot has. Would be nice if I could get something in the 383 green.

 

[plode]

Here is what is on my truck now:
View attachment 492021

OK...REALLY need some help with this. What is this valve? It's not the LQ-2 valve the truck is supposed to have. I'm really stuck here with how to proceed. Any input?
I've looked through TM's, P2P software, ABS MWO's, and not one has any information about this valve. I tried finding the -20 older TM's to see if they had info on it, but all I can find is the -24 TM's updated in 2012. I've looked through hundreds of pictures on Google trying to determine any information on it. I have yet to find another like it.

 

[plode]

Well I got the drivers side plate fitted, holes drilled in it, rusty metal primed underneath it, and started welding it in. I was using the method that others on here have suggested for sheet metal(series of tack welds). Well, I'm about 300 tack welds in, and I'm only about 1/2 way done(46" x 6" plate). I think the other plates might get put down with seam sealer and just a couple tack welds. I'm way too impatient to do 1000+ tack welds.
I primed the rest of the rusty areas in the cab as well.

I decided to tackle that air brake valve issue. Since no one on here could reply to me with any sort of answer or information, I took it on myself to figure it out(mostly guessing). Since the LQ-2 valve I had didn't come with the exhaust port threaded, I went to the hardware store and picked up a 3/8 NPT tap.
Tapped the valves exhaust port out. Then started moving the fittings over. I see in the TM's the LQ-2 valve has an airline running from a tee on the exhaust port to the control port(1/4 inch port). So I put a tee in, and went to the local hydraulic shop(at a local hardware store) to see if they could make me up a DOT brake line for it. First shop....no DOT brake line. Went to another shop that works specifically with hydraulic and airlines(probably should have been my first stop). They had the line made up in about 10 minutes...$10.
Came home, put it all together. Since the batteries are out of the truck, I hooked it up to my shop compressor and filled the tanks.
Air brakes seem to be functioning correctly. I still have the steady hiss coming from the intake stack, but the brakes no longer bleed down when holding the pedal down. Now that the limiting valve issue is taken care of, I'm going to go around and disconnect each vent at the brake canisters and figure out which one(s) is(are) leaking.

 

[MtnSnow]

Awesome on getting the first leak taken care of with a working LQ-2 valve. (Both of the valve's I received were threaded in the exhaust port so I probably would have just contacted the seller and asked them to exchange it for a threaded one) but tapping it works too! lol Getting a steady hiss still I'm betting you also have a worn out brake diaphragm as those are the next most common leaking source for a steady hiss.

 

[plode]

Awesome on getting the first leak taken care of with a working LQ-2 valve. (Both of the valve's I received were threaded in the exhaust port so I probably would have just contacted the seller and asked them to exchange it for a threaded one) but tapping it works too! lol Getting a steady hiss still I'm betting you also have a worn out brake diaphragm as those are the next most common leaking source for a steady hiss.

I tried getting the seller to cooperate, but all he was willing to do was have me return it, and refund my money(minus shipping). So I just figured what the heck, I'll thread it myself and get this done today
And yes, checking the brake diaphragms are next. Going to pull off the vent lines one at a time at the cylinders till I figure out which one it is.

 

[plode]

I've been too busy working to do anything with the truck this week, but I have been thinking. I have a constant small flow of air into the intake stack. As previously stated, most have thought it was a brake diaphragm, but the more I thought about it, the less that makes sense. This flow is all the time... even when my foot isn't on the brake and the parking brake is off. There shouldn't be air in the brake chamber at all when my foot isn't on the brake....
So that makes me think....the treadle valve has to be leaking air out to the brake chambers, and one of the diaphragms is torn as well, right?